1985 Jaguar XJ6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check that the wiring and terminals to the sender unit are not broken or dirty. If they are good maybe the sender unit it self is not working.

The horns themselves, as well as the electrical relays, can often be replaced with a standard ones from one of the auto parts stores. If parts are not available for the horn switch, An different switch, again from the parts store, can be installed or one obtained for a salvage yard.

i need a diagram of a series 11 xj6 jaguar door i.e. the position of the electric window into the door as i cant line the bolts and frame up. need to see a picture of it. thanks

There are a couple of possibilities. The brake lights only operate when the ignition is switched on. If that is not the solution then I suggest that you may have dislodged a connector when changing the brake components you mention. I have never had this problem and until I get my service manual back from the local garage I cannot tell you where to look for the pressure switch. It should be close to the master brake cylinder.

The manual handbrake is cable operated. If it has been adusted regularly during the 30 years of operation, it will probably not have any adjustment capability left. The adjustment is by use of an adjustment screw that you will see under the car. My car is a 1983 Jaguar and it has this problem. I am unable to obtain a replacement cable at present and am considering getting my mechanic to shorten the existing cable. I rely on the transmission parking lock to hold the car when parked.

It needs to be grounded to some metal part on the car. If the mount is rusted or broken you can drill a hole on the horn its self and attach a wire to it using a metal screw then attach the other end to something metal on the car.

It could be the reverse brake band. If you get a Haynes manual for this model, it will tell you where and how to adjust the bands.
Hope this helps

put a radiator flush in your expansion bottle run it for about 20 miles to clean out both the core of the radiator and your heater core .then drain it. refill with 50/50 mix of anti freeze. leave off the cap the now as you need to bleed it first. to do so .put your heating on full with the engine ticking over .the water starting to heat up put on your cap.

There should be a notch cut into the distributor body to mark #1. If you can't find it then turn the engine over until your timing marks are lined up.You will need to lift the valve cover to check that as you move past the timing mark or TDC that the exhaust valve starts to open. If not then rotate the engine 180 Degrees and try again.

PASS SIDE OF MOTOR IN THE REAR BOTTOM OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT.

153624 no. 1 at front if its aj6 engine no 1 at rear if its the old xk ie series3

Hello, friend. if your speedometer do not work, why not have a try of odometer tool.

You would need to find out if the system has been converted to R134 or if it is still using R12.If R12 you would need to have a licensed tech do it, or have someone convert it to R134.

You first have to determine if it is a charging of the battery issue, or the battery itself, or if there is an unintended drain on the battery while sitting. You can check if the alternator is charging good, by putting a voltmeter on the battery while engine is running. Voltmeter should read over 13 volts, somewhere between about 13.2 volts and tops about 14 volts, or just over. Anything less than 13 volts, and the alternator is not up to par, not charging the battery sufficiently. If the battery is a little old, and beyond its warranty, it may just be too old to take a full charge, or it might have a dead cell. You can have the battery tested to see if it is still good. If the alternator and battery are both good and working properly, you can check for an overnight drain with just a simple testlight. Everything in car should be off. Now take off the battery negative terminal and connect the testlight between the negative cable end and the battery negative post. If you have anything draining the battery while it sits, the testlight will light up brightly. If no light, or a very dim bulb, the system is good. A dim light would just be computer and clock memory, a very small draw, like milliamps, and should not be enough to run the battery down.If you have a bright light on the tester, just start pulling fuses out one at a time, till light goes out. The circuit for the fuse that turned the testlight off is the problem circuit. Something on that circuit should be off and not drawing power, but it is.Good luck.

open the trunk; lift out the liner; on each side are additional smaller covers about 5x10 which after lifting expose the fuel pumps, one for each tank. They are a common problem, especially after sitting for a while. I've taken them apart before and got them working again.

id check petrol , and clean plugs,allso while plugs are out check that they are sparking

6-5-4-3-2-1 from the radiator to the firewall

That the coolant indicator use it

The starter is on the left side of the engine, near the firewall, kind of below the battery. You can follow the positive side of the battery cable to the starter.

What would you like to know?