20 Most Recent 1998 Saab 900 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The only CLARION code available for free (using a serial number ) from anywhere on the Internet is if your radio also has a BARCODE SERIAL NUMBER beginning with C7000000 + + + + on a label somewhere on the metal casing.

(There are usually two barcodes on one label. The one required is the lower one )

T

If not then it will only be available from your Main Dealer or a Decoding

The maf sensor is either dirty, or needs replacing. Try cleaning it first.
Disconnect the black tube from the air filter housing, and the sensor housing, there should be a thin wire going across inside, get a can of air intake cleaner (at any auto parts store) and spray it in there, be very careful when you wipe that wire off. wipe off any excess cleaner inside.
If the same problem still exists, change the sensor.

You are going to have to get the tensioner removed and replaced is the only solution.

if you have to, cut the belt to make getting the tensioner removed. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

It will be inside the gas tank

Replace oil press sending unit

the lights are most likely the third brake light on the decklid... small line of led brake lights small unit.. i would clean the ignition switch with some quick start and cycle the key in and out to clean up the contact on the bottom some times soda or coffe gets in there and makes the car think that the cars key is in the ignition

Donald, These unit fail often general used cost is 100.00.
im sure
Elite foreign auto parts has only saab parts.. tested and used,

also check your abs unit connection mounted near the over flow bottle this controls the speedo on that car..

Hi John:

First suggestion would be to have the three engine mounting bushings checked out, these dampen the normal engine vibrations and if they have failed (gone soft, perhaps from contamination by oil, or just age) they don't restrain the engine. Polyurethane is possibly the best replacement.

I'm assuming that there are no other problems with the engine through it's rev range, until you get to that speed? And that the engine otherwise runs smoothly, even after that speed?

The other possibility is imbalance in the axle half shafts. Did you have the wheels balanced on the car? That might balance all the rotating parts.

Let us know.

Good luck!

Saabreur

Hi David:

First, check the fuses for the hydraulic motor; if they're blown, replace and monitor (why did they blow? Perhaps an overload, or ...) These fuses are located in the engine bay on top of the fender by the front right wheel housing.

Next check the voltage supply to the top switch, possibly a loose connection or broken wire.

Also check relays C (raising top) and D (lowering top) under the rear seat.

Lastly check for voltage at the pump, also under the rear seat, when the switch is actuated, and that the voltage polarity reverses when the switch is actuated the other way (up or down).

After that, it's a hydraulic/mechanical problem. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir (use SAAB fluid to top up if low) Fluid level should be at the upper marker with top down, and at the lower marker with top up.

Check behind the rear seat side panels that the piston shaft is still properly attached to the roof mechanism bracket at one end, and the piston itself is still firmly attached to the body. Look for any leakage from the system.

If all tests out OK and looks good under the rear seat and behind the side panels, then there is the possibility that the piston seals have failed and the fluid is just circulating around without activating the piston. Pistons are available (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=584 - scroll down) but the entire system should be removed to avoid getting hydraulic fluid on the interior.

However, that fact that you can operate the hood using the bypass valve (manually) would indicate that the hydraulics are likely OK, and that it's probably an electrical or mechanical problem.

Good luck!

Saabreur

the rocking is normal play, replace the switch

Sounds like a stuck fuel pump relay.

Hi!

I'm sad to hear that you're having so much trouble with the car :(

Your problem is (almost certainly) not related to the alternator or the starter.
Your engine seems to lack fuel, air or spark, either due to a clogged hose/valve somewhere or a quirky electrical connection/relay.

Have you made sure that the fuel pump is supplying sufficient pressure when the problem is present?
Can you hear the pump when turning on the ignition?
If the pump (and its relay) seems ok you should make sure you have spark when the problem is present. If there's no spark the problem should be easily traced, probably to a intermittently faulty sensor or a faulty coil.
If both fuel and spark check out ok there is probably something wrong with the air supply when attempting a warm-start.

The things mentioned above are things you can check out yourself without high costs or special tools (you'll need a multimeter if you want to check voltages, but that's a cheap tool that might come in handy).

Oh and the car also has a check valve to keep pressure in the fuel lines. These valves can cause problems similar to yours, so you might want to check it out.

Good luck mate!

better check latch sensor switches.

it seems that you have two problems to look at, first is, a gas leak, try to check the tubing of the fuel, start from the engine. the reason why you smell gas, it's maybe because you need to tune up the carburetor, the engine may not be burning the fuel well or it don't have the proper combustion to burn the fuel, so it'll smell fuel from the exhaust pipe, so you might as well check that out. You may also want to check for a vacuum leak as well. is there is a leak it is not allowing fuel pressure to build up and it causes a shake. amongst these would lie your answer

yes need to get a hose kit at any auto parts,
and most auto part employee's will tell you how.

The dip stick end should have a plastic square piece with two roundish bulbs on each end. The oil level should read just at the bottom of the top bulb (the bulb nearest the yellow cap at the top end of the dip stick). This indicates full. A level reading anywhere between the two bulbs is adequate but not optimal. Oil below the top end of the bottom bulb, means 1 quart low, and no oil at all on the bottom bulb means get some oil in there double quick.

If you can access the cable take a pair of vise grips and simply pull it like you would the hood release handle

This happend to my car and it was the ABS module that failed. It does not harm your car you just don't have ABS. Try to replace the ABS sensor first since it is a lot less expensive and a lot less work. If that does not do the trick you will most likely have to replace the module itself. That cost big $$. A new one is about 1200-1500. I bought one from a wrecked card for 300 and it has worked fine for years.