20 Most Recent 1999 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 3 Questions & Answers

You take a six pack of Guinness to your Service Manager and ask real nice for the "double-secret" universal code. Theres only two or three. This has worked for me in the past, hope it works for you.

By bouncing, do you mean that system is raising and lowering the vehicle or do you mean you feel like you are driving a clown car through a boulder field? If the first, you have a height position sensor(s) that is failing or failed. If the second symptom, your system has de-pressurized (which can be caused by a number of things) and you are bouncing on the "bump-stops". These are pushing mounted on your axle top that prevent the vehicle from dropping clear to the ground. Happy to provide more suggestions if you would like to post more info. In any event, if the orange row of lights on your dash panel EAS switch begin flashing this is the FAULT mode and you need to stop and park vehicle asap if you do not and you continue to drive the vehicle you will eventually go into HARD FAULT mode. This is indicated by your dash message center reading "SLOW 35MPH MAX" and you do not want this to happen. The hard fault takes you to a BeCM (rover's brain) state that requires special software, electronic tools and know how, and sometimes alot of patience to cure OR usually about and hour of shop time at your "TESTBOOK" equipped LAND ROVER dealership service department to correct. Good luck.

That would be your "LOW RANGE" indicator light. Confirming that you are in 4wdLow. If it remains on when not in low then you might try shifting from low to hi (or vice versa) travel a few feet and then transfer back. You should notice the light going on or off when passing thru the center of the shift gate between low/hi. To be certain, the factory owners manual has simple detailed instructions on this procedure. Hope this helps.

Are you getting power to the start terminal on the starter? Use a test light or meter and hook up to the wire on the starter that powers up the solenoid . No power start working backwards. check your ignition switch and see if power comes out in the crank mode. Make sure you have not tripped the security system. Close all doors and windows/hood. Cycle the locks with the remote of with the key in the driver door lock. This will eliminate the alarm unless there is a problem with it.

Sounds like battery issue. Check post connections and voltage.

Driver door switch likely not working. Also, some LEDs are not as bright, and may not be dimmable, so be aware

Sounds like the door switch in the left side is bad. I would start by replacing it, or having it replaced.

Earliest Known Appearance

check the transmission oil level

sounds like you need a new battery or battery terminals maybe both.

Fuel pump dies around 130k.

I have a 1998 Range Rover HSE. The ABS, TC amd Brake light stay on and now I have noticed that it is becoming harder and harder to stop. It literally feels like I dont have any brakes at all. I have to pretty much push the brake petal all the eay down in order to get it to stop. I had the pads and rotors about 6 months ago and I don't know what to do! Help please

dash lights? Any ign power? More info...

May have melted the fusible link going to the starter. Or blown the main fuse. I dont know the exact location of the fusible link in this truck. What happened is the starter solenoid wire completed it's path to ground without first going thru the solenoid windings.

check for tire balance and irregular tire wear as a reason that stars the problem. Next replace the shock absorbers as they no longer work properly

Bank 1 is driverside. Bank 2 is passenger side. Sensor 1 bank 1 is before converter. Sensor 2 bank 1 is after conv. Psgr side same

Need a scanner to read and reset codes