20 Most Recent 1996 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 6 Questions & Answers

do you have the factory manual that comes with it when it was purchased ,if you do call the techline # in the manual.they will ask you verification that you own it then they will give you your code.

Yes, on a 1996 Range Rover there is just a couple of bolts and the coil pack assy comes right off.
The cylinders are numbered on the coil pack. The 1996 has 1 coil pack for all the cylinders.
1999 -2002 has 2 coil packs which can also be replaced with everything still assembled but it is much more difficult and it can take a qualified technician upto 2 hours to replace them

If they told you the actual error codes you would have gotten a more precise idea what went wrong and why. Without them all i can do is to make an educated deduction: from what you described that looks like a bad connection on the ECM so their diagnostic appears correct.

1996 Land Rover Range Rover SE 4.0 liter V-8 VIN "2"



Remember rated this. Good luck.

Most batteries have just 2 terminals +ve (Red) and -ve (Black). Modern cars tend to have a -ve earth.

Normally -ve to black and ground +ve to read and HT system.

On any vehicle's fuel tank you will find an electrical switch. This is the fuel gauge. Replace it and see if thats the problem. (they are cheap). If you still have a problem, then run the wires to the fuse panel. You may find a short or a fuse blows. Please let me know it I can be of help

sounds like a hub bearing is bad

If the vehicle is fuel injected it could be one of the injectors, does the car shake really bad before it stalls?

sound like engine management

blend motors, pain in the arse but not impossible.

if the pump has run for over 15mins it will go eas
if you unplug ecu [ bottom one under pasenger seat] do not have key in or enging running it may reset if this is a no go it will have to be plugged in and reset
yours dave

My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.

Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).

Regarding HOW:
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1996/make/land_rover/model/range_rover/1996_land_rover_range_rover_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

It is located on the left side of the engine, rear, and an element type filter. The cap for the housing will be black and simply unscrews and once removed cap has been removed, be sure to replace the o ring also. System should hold about 7-8 quarts.

fix it wite hidrolik check fuse

try jiggling the steering wheel til it clicks or moves and then try moving the key

sensor should be next to harmonic balancer.usually bolted to motor.balancer has fins behind it which run through crank sensor magnets to send signals to onboard computer.ensure to replace as per removal method

check fuel pressure. backfire tends to indicate a LEAN (not enough) fuel condition. This in turn can be caused by: a large air/vacuum leak, a restricted fuel supply, a clogged fuel pickup screen, a weak or leaking pressure regulator, O2 sensor(s) failures causing a "commanded rich" output to PCM - PCM then delivers a lean signal, a faulty mass airflow signal, a defective air temp sensor, a bad coolant temp sensor, crappy secondary ignition components.

take it to a mechanic and have it inspected ,does this vehicle have a yearly mechanical vehicle inspection done at an authorised vehicle inspection station .Where its jacked up or run over a pit and all the underneath wiggled and shook about ,prodded with a big bar and the underbody inspected for corrosion .

You either have a faulty abs unit which is common and usually repaired by the dealerership. Or you have low fluids and/or dirty tranny filter.
You can have it broughten in to have the engine codes reset. Sometimes it is tripped by low fluid or dirty filter. But abs problems are usually delt with by dealerships and not many mechanics deal with them.