20 Most Recent 2001 Kia Sephia - Page 8 Questions & Answers

tap on starter with hammer if starts replace starter

Your car isn't like the old kind of flasher relays. You have a flasher module and below is a picture of its location. I hope this helps.

I would check ignition items or fuel delivery if it just died on you. It wont be the battery unless it was dead and the alternator stop working.

does the vehicle start? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

check the rear elements running across the window for any open spots. they will fail on occation and its an easy repair with the kit from the parts store. if they look good then it might be the fuse so check the fuse as well. If fuse is good and rear element is good then you need to check the switch with a DMM.

there is probably no voltage in the system, just because the fuses are ok it dont mean that there is a voltage check for voltages prior to the fuses

Hi

Please check this links related to your issue, hope it will help troubleshoot your problem:-

http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/a/ts_no-start.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/car_wont_start.htm

Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Is your coolant level going down or are you having over-heating problems with constant levels of coolant. If the latter chesck that coolant is circulating through the radiator....switch engine on wait about 5 minute for thermostat to open i.e.the top radiator hose becomes hot. The fan should either already be running or should engage within a few minutes. Also in the next few minutes the bottom radiator 'return' hose to the engine becomes warm/hot. The bottom hose becoming warm shows that the radiator core is not blocked. Feel across the surface of the radiator for cold spots that would indicate localized blockages. If the fan fails to engage at any point above then check the fan fuse, the fan relay and the coolant sensor. Check the connections that they are tight, clean and free of corrosion. My procedure is to do what is easiest first and then progress to more difficult areas. Check the fuse first that it is intact and that voltage is present. The make sure that power is reaching the radiator fan (use a voltmeter at the wires to the fan when the engine is running hot - there will be no voltage when cold!). If voltage present but no running fan then the fan motor needs attention. If no voltage then follow the wires from the fan back to the relay and check whether voltage is being supplied to the relay. You can run a temporary check wire from the battery positive terminal to the fan and the relay input and output to see if they will kick into life. If there is power to the relay input but no output then the relay needs attention. If no input voltage then check the wiring back to the fuse. Now check the coolant sensor if non of the above has shown any fault. Drain the coolant from the engine into a bucket, if clear and not full of rust you can use it to refill when you have finished. Remove the coolant sensor, note this is different to the coolant sender that you see indicated on your dashboard; the 'sensor' usually has multiple wires and the 'sender' usually just one. Remove the sensor and measure the resistance across it, if the four pin type measure across the pins diagonally opposite each other. Measure the resistance by immersing the sensor tip in a cup of hot water and then see what happens as you add cold water to the cup. You should see the resistance change directly with temperature change, if not then you need a new sensor. This should allow you to trap and fix the problem. Refill using the bucket of coolant. End note, I have in the past dislodged the 'o' ring on the radiator drain plug when draining the coolant and this lead to an invisible loss of coolant i.e. no drips. Just take care when returning the drain plug that the seal is good, a smear of silicone grease can really help.

Sounds like slave sylender!! Have a hard clutch peddle? If so the Ck your linkage maybe disconnected or broke

If the timing is still okay, then keep using it for now.

• Hi, I can heko.
• This code says the computer is indicating a large fuel leak. More than likely your cap needs tightened up or the seal is worn and you need a new gas cap.
• Try taking the gas cap off and put it on again making sure it is on strait and click it three times when putting it on.
• If this does not takr care of the code then buy a new gas cap.
• The other thing it would be with the evap system ie a broke or cut hose.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

It sounds right the crank positionink sensor tells the moter whats going on as far as what to do and when when it goes out car becomes confused.

Some times the noise arise due to bad wheel bearing or hub assembly. you can check it at http://www.buyautoparts.com/autoparts/Kia/Sephia/Wheel_Hub_Assembly.html Overdrive light keep blinking when you might not keep it on proper gear. check the cables.

In most cases the "float" or "sending unit" in the gas tank is wore out, and not giving a reading. This is normal for any vehicle after so long. You simply need to replace this, and you should be good to go.
Please let me know if you need further assitance.
carsandcomps

Not sure but i have heard it takes up to 100 miles to clear error code.