20 Most Recent 1998 Kia Sephia - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If you're using an impact gun, you can hold the pulley with a heavy glove or towel to cushion your hand. One good zip and the nut is off.I've seen the allen-wrench stip out a few alt. shafts.

This can be due to poor tuning of the fuel and also the ignition timing. You need to have the fuel settings checked , check the spark plugs to give you a good bright electrode, if not there is unburnt fuel and so the timing and fuel settings must be revisited.Check the air filter , remove and clean .also the exhaust must be checked for any clogging.Make sure there is no impurities or water in the fuel, check the fuel filter.

Physically look in the radiator under the cap when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

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Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave' for today.

As you evaluate my advise.solutions and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew. I can only react to the information that you provide. So please judge my suggestions accordingly.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices. Diagnostic tools can be borrowed from AutoZone for FREE:
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. If that happens, you might want to view me as being incompetent.

Subject: Lack of spark reaching the spark plugs.

Customer's exact description: no spark

Discussion: The customer doesn't indicate any diagnostic tests to date to his 1998 Kia Sephia. An authorized dealer will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will provide a thorough scan for FREE or you can borrow one at no cost. All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd would immediately perform a diagnosis scan with a code scanner. One could jump to the immediate conclusion that the ignition coil. However, any scanner reading between P0300 and P0399 - Ignition System or Misfire codes could be the cause. If it is the ignition coil you should have not problem replacing it in about thirty (30) minutes. The cost is approximately $30.

AT THIS STAGE DO NOT RUN OUT AND BUY A COIL!

Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong".
Until you get that answer, please keep your money in your pocket.

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty:
Moderately Challenging (AutoZone will loan you the instrumentation FREE of charge) The hardest part is identifying the wires and plugging them back in correctly,

Instructions

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly. In fact the on-board computer could be at fault.

Without a scan diagnosis you would have to replace all of All of the above systems are monitored by Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong.

I'm personally in the process of restorning a 1994 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi and it requires the use of a special diagnostic tool called a GM Tech1 and it costs $700 used. Your car can use the standard OBD-II scanner. Because of the high tech devices installed in your Kia, you might want to pick up a service manual on eBay for under $50.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex to diagnose.

All the best,

Ben

If the fan isnt blowing, than any temperature will not be able to enter the cabin effectively. As for intermittent starting problems, there could be a dozen different causes. What exactly does it sound like when you turn the key? As for the fuel gauge, it could be that the sensor has broken. All put together sounds like it could all be caused by faulty electrical systems, and you may need a new alternator, ro there could be a short.

Any standard shift clutch requires removing the
entire transaxle on most vehicles & rear drive trans
on others

You can figure $700 to $1000 on most repairs

The flywheel needs to be resurfaced
That isn't always done,but should be
It should also be balanced & never is
The clutch assy should be balanced & never is
The clutch slave cylinder & throw out brg get replaced

So you see a lot of expense

What happens when you try to jump start it? If it starts by jump starting then the problem is in your charging system (alternator or battery).

You should also check the fuses and make sure the starter fuse is good.

Fuses don't actually blow, they melt the link wire/material, when to much current is passed through it.

If the same fuse is always opening, one or more of the items powered by that fuse is shorted out and drawing to much current. With gauge clusters, it can get a little tough to troubleshoot. The best way that I have found is to disconnect all the gauges and then put the fuse in and make sure it doesn't "blow". Then connect, one gauge at a time until it goes again.

That is not that hard to do ! first lift car take wheel off then take the caliper off and brakes ,braket that stops rotor from coming off then take rotor off then take spindle nut off and behind bearing you will see 3 bolts take them off bearing should come loose then get a hammer and start pounding then when it comes off clean the inside of hole that holds bearing with wire brush then grease it and grease spindle then you just have to reverse steps.......

Hello,

I just looked the the code up. Code is an EVAP code, Evaporative pressure sensor which is part of the emission system. The ECM is seeing high input reading and this is usually because the sensor harness is disconnected or the senor is defective.


I hope this help.

Rodney

SOUND LIKE CRANKSHAFT KNOCK.THE MAIN BEARINGS IS WORN OUT.