20 Most Recent 1998 Kia Sephia - Page 3 Questions & Answers

A large number of fuses are powered by the key switch.Do you know which circuits are dead ?

lose sparkyou can

the purple one not really. there's no exhaust fuse.

Trouble Code: P0134

HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) No Activity Detected

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine started, engine running in closed loop at a speed over 3 mph for more than 2 minutes, and the PCM detected the HO2S signal stroke rationality was more than the threshold value (0.250 volt) during the Heated Oxygen Sensor Monitor test.

Possible Causes:HO2S signal circuit is open or shorted to ground.HO2S has deteriorated, is contaminated or has failed.PCM has failed.YOUR HO2S SENSOR IS BAD,IT COST 80.00,USE EXACT FIT PART.EASY TO REMOVE,DISCONNECT ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR,GET WRENCH AND REMOVE.5 MINUTES TO DO.Trouble Code: P0336

Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine running and the PCM detected the number of CKP sensor signals counted (between the reference mark gap). did not equal the Actual number of available teeth (i.e., the CKP signals. were out or the normal window" of operation with the CMP sensor. signals okay).

Possible Causes:CKP sensor signal circuit connections loose (intermittent fault).CKP sensor wiring harness has a connection fault (intermittent).CKP to Target Wheel "air gap" is incorrect.CKP sensor is damaged or has failed.Must remove to see.Trouble Code: P0440

EVAP System Malfunction

Trouble Code Conditions: Engine started, ECT sensor signal less than158?F at startup, IAT sensor signal more than 9.5?F, system voltage over 10.0 volts engine runtime 15-20 minutes at cruise speed, then returned to idle speed, VSS indicating 0 mph, load value 2.2 ms, canister load factor less than 4.0, fuel tank pressure less than 0.5" Hg, then after the Idle Control system and Fuel Trim had stabilized, the PCM detected a fuel vapor leak (as small as 0.040") in the EVAP system during the EVAP Leak Test.

Possible Causes:Fuel filler cap damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed.Small hoses or cuts present in the EVAP vapor hoses/lines.EVAP purge valve is damaged or has failed.Here you are the symptons.

Hello, my name is Ben. This is a pretty common complaint for your particular vehicle. The most common solution is the switch that engages when you step on the brake to shift out of PARK. Try stepping on the brake pedal while pushing the manual override release switch and see if you can hear the switch click.

How new are your tires and when was the last time for a front end aliment?That might be it.

I'd suggest you go to www.autozone.com and register for free. Once registered you'll have access to dozens of vehicle manuals and repair guides which provide great information. I'm sure you'll find an illustration of the engine which will show it's location.

my car has the same exact problem!! i have 2 pop the clutch 2 get it started when it is hot. Mine starts great when its cold or hasn't ran 4 awhile but when we are driving around for more than about 20 min in it when we stop it doesn't start at all. it wont even turn over. so i have 2 have my husband push it while i pop the clutch & then it starts & runs fine till the next time we turn it off. its not a battery problem as we'v replaced the battery, & the starter & the alternater are fine as we'v had them tested. hopefully someone that knows & has fixed this problem can answer this mystery problem!! hopefully some1 can :D

To check and see if the alternator is charging, you use a VOM meter to measure battery voltage. Should be around 12 volts with engine off, and 14 volts with engine running.You can also take the car to an auto parts store or take the alternator off and have the parts store bench test it.You can NOT check an alternator by running the engine and disconnecting the battery cable.

on fuel rail is a tyre valve looking thing remove the dust cover and connect a gauge to this and it should read 55lbs on cranking