2005 Jaguar S-Type - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you are going to need to get twelve volts to your system somehow,your frame and engine are the ground or"neg",,now you need to find the big thick red wire coming from the trunk and going to your engine compartment,you will need to hook up another battery with jumper cables or a battery pack,red to red black to black or a bolt on your motor.then try your key

Try a reset of the park brake.
Make sure you have your radio code.!!
Disconnect the battery - leave for 10 Min's.
Reconnect.
Turn ignition on. If fault has not reset - try the following
Apply foot brake (not too hard)
Apply park-brake switch following instructions on the message center.

Use this method for any park brake fault as most of the time it fixes the minor problems caused by glitches and low battery voltage.
hope this helps good luck

Congrats on having a really, really nice car there, Erick! You'll likely always have either P1000 or P1111 stored in the OBDII (On-Board Diagnostic system, version II). If you have P1111 then you should be happy. It's a good code. The P1111 code indicates that all engine tests have completed by the computer, and everything is okay. The reason it is there is because the car has to be driven for a while before all tests are complete after a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) reset or battery reconnection. (P1000 means those same tests have not yet been completed, it does not indicated a problem, just the fact the 'puter has a bit more work to do - for whatever reason) The P0172 code is a different beast, however. It can mean the following: Restricted air filter Leaking fuel injector(s) IP Sensor fault (high fuel pressure) EFT Sensor fault (high fuel temperature) MAF Sensor fault (high intake air flow) HO2 Sensor(s) (1/1, 1/2) harness wiring condition fault ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components: ECT Sensor, MAF Sensor, IAT Sensor, IP Sensor, EFT Sensor, TP Sensor 1) Change out the air filter, and use the code reader to clear the code. The code is telling you one of the "banks" (sides of the engine) are running a hair rich, that's all. An air filter that is a bit restricted can cause this. (While you are at it, change the oil and filter, too - yours is a World Class Automobile, treat it as such and keep it fully maintained, Erick! I am writing this to you on a Saturday. Go outside and hand-wash that pretty baby, today!) If the code returns promptly... ...the usual reason for the code is crud - usually invisible crud - on the MAF sensor, an easy fix. If everything else about your car's performance seems okay, and this code re-appears after clearing it from the OBDII a few times, then and only then take the step of cleaning the MAF (Mass Air-Flow Sensor). (if you Google the price of a replacement MAF Sensor for your car, you'll understand why this is not the very first thing you want to do) The MAF Sensor is the honey-comb thingie after the air filter, and before the engine. It does a p**p-load of things: it tells your Jag's MAIN computer (your S-Type has 6 or 8 different computers on-board!) what the air temperature, oxygen content, humidity, and likely a few other things, too, are - many, many times each and every second you are driving down the road. Go to a NAPA Auto Parts store (or other "Quality" auto parts store), and buy the single BEST brand of MAF Sensor Spray Cleaner they have. Do NOT "skimp" and buy a WalMart or similar brand - they are NOT all created equal. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, USE "CARBURETOR CLEANER"!!! Disconnect, unplug and pull the MAF Sensor out from "under the bonnet". Make sure you use a nice blanket or something to lean on and rest against while working on it (excuse me, it's an English Motorcar, so I should say "whilst working on it"), to make sure you do not scratch the paint of your Jag. Take the MAF Sensor across the yard, or out of the garage (anywhere, far far away from the car) and spray the cleaner through it, following the directions on the can to the letter. (if you accidentally mist the spray onto the car, you will screw up the paint job something royal. You do NOT want to do that: everyone knows, if you mess with the paint on a Jag, God Himself will not allow you into Heaven) Just clear the code, Erick. If it comes back, or if you have"drive-ability" problems, then you can deal with the MAF Sensor. Don't get too terribly hung-up when your Jag throws you a code, they are want to do so. (kitties are temperamental beasts, all) Happy Motoring! ~Bruce Post Script - Join (or at least Bookmark) http://www.jaguarforums.com They will help you with EVERY problem you can (and likely will) encounter with your beautiful car. Post Post Script - one of these days, your Jag will likely jump into "limp mode", scare the heck outta you, and you will get a screaming number of OBDII codes. It will usually happen when you "need" the car most (in traffic), as you accelerate. It is a "false call": it will be a simple vacuum leak. Pull over, turn the car off, and restart it (yes, you can do it 'whilst' rolling, but the steering wheel will lock on you for a moment). If you can readily find the leak, a bit of your girlfriend's bubblegum will fix it! Fix(ed)Ya !!!

Yes. You will need a proper Jaguar changer with the correct fibre optic leads (d2b) then It will need to be programmed to the vehicle wich can only be done by Jaguar. You may also need the correct carpet for the n/s of the boot

Is this even when sitting still? Could be bad fuel pump. If only while moving then possible differential bearings or gears or brake issue. Good shop should be able to put up on frame rack, run the car and use stethscope to locate noise.

hi mike i had the very same problem with my 55 plate s type this morning 4 feb 2009 had driven a journey of 20+ miles at 9am with 4" of snow on the ground and at this point no problems and i would assume the discs and pads would have been toastie hot and the assoc parts ,
but after a quick stop for ten minutes i restarted the car and drove away up a slight incline in snow /slush the rear wheels lost traction and the dsc sybol illuminated on the dash after getting no traction in this mode switched dsc off and managed to get some traction by hook or crook on reaching the major grit treated road and gaining full trction the dsc was re selected
as per normal start up but then i noticed that i had the amber oval warning light on the dash and park brake fault promt on the info lcd .
On stopping the car i tried to switch off the engine and re start to see if this would reset or clear the display
resulting in the car still showing same fault msg and this time unable to select a gear and the gear selector stuck in park

on calling jaguar assist an engineer arrived within a reasonable time with laptop and conections to do a diognostic scan
finding that his pc would not cummnicate with my car following several attemps the engineer went on to get the park brake disengaged by these next two steps and i can only say that this worked sufficently to get the vehicle off the road to a more suitable investigating area
in my case my drive way less than 1/4 mile away

step 1. inside the boot lift the floor to expose spare wheel and battery compartment
then on drivers side, the interior that covers the rear light cluster should be teesed back there are two black fixings that secure this in place one being 1/4 turn the other a full thread plastic nut
once this liner is pulled back (easier with two people )there is a white (PARK BRAKE ) module sat there with a multi plug going in .
this multiplug contains severa wires going into it.
from what the engineer said the two your intrested are clearly fatter than the rest and control the motors that engage parking brake force to the calipers .
now heres the clever bit take 2 peices of wire at least 2 feet long making sure the ignition is off and key out
(this is also where a friend comes in handy )
where the battery is, remove the cover from atop of the live + terminal and place place /hold /secure one wire to each batery terminal this done then carefully touch the exposed other ends of each wire into the little gaps where the individual fat wires go into the multiplug trial and error will do one of two things
1/ nothing and the brake motors will just remain powered to keep brake force applied so by swapping them round should give the desired result in powering the motors to RELEASE breaking force and thus disengage

REAL IMPORTANT NOTE MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE CAN NOT ROLL ,OVER YOU ,OR AWAY ,CHOCK A WHEEL OR TWO WITH SOME THING BLOCK OF WOOD BRICK MOTHER IN LAW YA GET MY DRIFT

so stage one complete but error msg and drive selector still not moving

step 2.
go to
center console where ashtray is ,lift cover to expose cigar lighter
the trim panel that is sheild shaped and surrounds the gear selector should be grasped firmly by placing your four fingertips along the flat top area where it meets the ashtray and prise upwards toward the roof this removes the trim plate without any damage and exposes the Jgate selector linkage and the plastic dust shroud that rotates when various positions are selected .
now on the pasenger side look into the gap that has become visable and a small aprox 1/2" to 3/4 " protrusion with a flat straight lump similar to a slotted screw but in reverse if you get my drift sits on the side of the selector by rotating this button/protrusion with your finger tip or screw driver tip and trying to move the gear selector from its park position this should allow the selector to move down the gate,while the engineer did this in my case i was sat in the drivers seat and had the car held on the foot brake so that the normal protocols of selecting were observed also the engine was running on moving the selector neutral was selected and at no time was park re selected til the vehicle was recovered to my drive way
however whilst driving the car the parkbrake fault warnings were still present and the asssoc beeps were audible .

strangly once we were on my drive the car was re plugged in to diagnostic laptop after the engineer had tried it on the land rover disco he had attended in and this done just to elliminate that his laptop and cables were funcioning correctly which they were ,
my car began to communicate with his machine and a reset was done
the get you out the S**T CHEATS were put back to normal
the PARK BRAKE FAULT warning was cleared and so far so good

its been very intresting to note that all the posts i have read on the web seem to refer to 2005 models and that adverse wheather conditions seem to play there part i was relieved to have this fixed and very grateful to the engineer who was so very helpful and happy to share his wealth of knowledge without which i could not have passed this on

great question, but engine failsafe or transmission?> no year stated, and is very key to answers, the PCM runs the engine, and if any sensor fails. the PCM Sees that (called catastrophic monitors) and instead of dying like a race car does (like this) the factory PCM is smarter than the average bear. it MIMIC's the dead sensor from about 1985 to now. most cars, in USA. called OBD . "simulates it" the ECu then logs ERRORS called DTCs ,you scan the PCM(or ECU) and it shows, say , dead CMP (crank sensor) "wild guess" one example is a dead MAF, (or MAP) the simulation is very very crude, and engine will misfire and foul spark plugs with carbon. this is very common, and worse prior to 1996 , in USA. so the CEL lamp glow running, that means Scan ME. Not starting is another matter, good compression on all cylinders good spark on all spark plugs, (not black tips (look) good fueling, of the above 2 are good, all cars run with test fuel now for about 3 seconds, long each spray. the fuel tank can be missing and i can keep the engine running for 5 minutes or longer, with my bottle of spray fuel. proving , you have fueling problem (low fuel pressure or too much) ill not do fueling as that is 3 pages long "injector tests"

Usually under the hood in a fuse and relay box close to the battery.

When I went to the Jaguar dealership the dealer (Farmingtonhills of Michigan Jaguar dealership)told me that only either 2005 or it was 2006 and better are the only autos with this function. I have a 2004 and I wanted to do the same thing. There might be another solution that I did not think of untill I left, asking them if it possible to install a bluetooth package. This might be possible, but for those of us that have a 2005 and lower model they did not come with this feature.

What is the fault code you receive when you attach a code reader to the car? The onboard computers (the S-Type has about seven of them or so) will generate information that most of them will share with the OBD-II system (Onboard Diagnostic System, Second Generation).The number of parameters checked are many. Without the fault code, you can only guess. What are the symptoms, if any? Do the brakes feel like they are pulsating when you step on the pedal? - probably a bad wheel speed sensor (not usually bad, more likely a drive-thru car-wash blew the plug connector off the sensor, or water-soaked it and a bit of WD40 will fix it). Mushy brakes? - likely need brake fluid, or air somehow got in the brake lines. There are about 20 dozen other scenarios for an ABS problem, but the fault code itself will narrow down what you need to address.Go to http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-15/ and search the forum for your particular ills. If you do not find the answer there in about 10 minutes of reading. take the time and 1) Join the forum, 2) Go to the "New Member" forum and introduce yourself, 3) Make sure your car\'s specifics (Year, Type, etc) are in your tagline so no one has to ask you that later, 4) Post a photo or two of your car in your Profile, and then, most importantly, 5) SEARCH AGAIN.You will then be a member of the world\'s most informative and helpful Jaguar online presence. If you can spin a wrench (excuse me, as a Jaguar owner you will be "twisting a spanner"!!!), you will never EVER have to visit a Jag dealer or auto repair shop again. Pretty bold statement, eh?24 hours a day, 365 days a week you will find people who will not only answer your question(s), they will provide you with information you cannot find elsewhere, places to go, things to do, and people to meet. Need wheels? Go to the "For Sale" section, or click on a sponsor ad. Want to lower that bad boy 2 inches, and run 20 inch rims? Read how the last guy did it, probably with a step-by-step tuorial and photos. Blew a door speaker? Navigation Screen replacement? That funky flap over the passenger mirror not stay open? Dash Air Vents pop out? Go to the forum, search, and if that doesn\'t work, ask.ONE CAVEAT: When you find something helpful, be sure to click the "Thanks!" button on any particular posting you find helpful, even if it is an old one.As a Jaguar owner, you know that quite a few people treat you a bit strangely now. They may even think you won the Lottery. Repair shops will "top-dollar" you, and you will take it in the shorts. Jaguar Dealerships WILL fool you, right there at the Service Manager\'s counter (they don\'t use lube, either!). That\'s why when the forum members help each other, the click on the "Thanks!" button is so important.Go to the dealer with your ABS problem: $1,200 easy. Go to the forum, maybe just a squirt of WD-40. My best advice is above. My best guess? Go wiggle each wire under your car that leads to the wheels. Fixya?

the heater control valve or dual control is controlled by the climate control module, what is the problem? the common issues are no cooling which is normally the dual control valve defaulted to open because of corroded/open circuit wiring to the valve,

It has a analog phone system that is obsolete but Motorola makes a nice upgrade to bluetooth

That means you have weak springs in your clutch it needs a new one

You need to have this checked it could be dangerous if it were to lock up while driving

Check this out with performance shops as there may be an intercooler that fits straight in. You may have to get brackets in a kit or make them yourself. The problem will the routing of the intercooling hoses to and from the turbo/manifold . Front mounted intercooler are more efficient at cooling the air so the only problem I can see apart from the engineering side of fitting it is that you may have to have a speed shop with a chassis dyno reprogram the CPU to get the best performance from the cooler more dense air.

Care to explain what it is in detail !!!

have the OBD codes read at a jag dealer this should give you the solution , probably a sensor(s)

Duplicate question.

That sounds more like transmission issue than a defective clutch, I suggest you have a shop diagnose this first. if IT IS THE CLUTCH ABOUT $1000.00 SHOULD COVER THE REPAIR.

Open your fuse box in the cab and check the little fuse map on the inside of the little door or in your manual, then you can find this fuse and replace it. A local garage may be nice and do this check for free. Good Luck!