Top 20 2005 Jaguar S-Type Questions & Answers

It is a regulatory safety device. You need to fix the Emergency Brake, not find a way around defeating it. Check out the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+jaguar+s+type+emergency+handbrake+release ..

see here here https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp or look at dealer web site JAG in your unstated country.

The other thing would be the injector for 5.

more than likely you need an ignition coil or two. s type jags chew coils regularly if you know what I mean!good luck and god bless.

check for air hydroc throwout bearing

the most likely cause is the dual control valve in the cooling system and/or the wiring to it. you can change the settings back to the origional settings using the touch screen or the dash switches . @ your model/year there was a factory fix which was about changing the servo motors on the climate control unit for that problem.you may need to take to a jag dealer. but first make sure the outside temp is reading ok on the dispay that can also cause that prob if its gone faulty

the water heater control valves are front right down low behind the radiator and are electricaly operated ,the AC pipe that runs under the engine but above the sub frame could be corroded out as this is a common fault with these cars ,also the electrical solonoids that shut off the heaters can corrode up as well but i have known them to stick open.

Hello Check the sensors , you still might have bad one in the group which will effect the full function of the sensors. If sensors are good , then you need to check the position of the sensors and set up correctly as if one of the sensors is out of alignment , it will cause this problem. If not , the you need to check the electrical wiring for the sensors

Sounds like bad window regulator.
If you get lucky you can spray silicone in the window run channels. That won't fix regulator but it could help a weak motor move it up.
If you broke the side view mirror off and caused this then your channel is bent and needs straightened

no code of this number exists in the jag code listings , P0285....Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit Low but the code for a ford which is what the software is i think for a vehicle of this age remember that ford owned jaguar at this stage ? P1285 Cylinder Head Overtemperature Condition

You have a fuel cut off safety switch . Verify it is on and if it is, go to your relays and fuses.

First off clean and lubricate the tracks the sun roof operates on, using a good quality lubricant with Teflon in it. The find the fuse and relay for it, remove the fuse, blow out the receptacle and clean the contacts on the fuse w/a wire brush before re-installing..do the same for the relay, often a bit of corrosion on these parts allows it to operate partially.

I am assuming an automatic transmission, 2nd gear is the default gear when there is a mechanical or electrical issue with the transmission. If the check engine lite is on, this would also verify that. If that's the case only a dealer or certified Jaguar shop can take care of this. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/daniel_4061c3d97c12c4c7

Faulty fuel injector or injector wiring loom, faulty o2 sensor or wiring loom.

you are going to need to get twelve volts to your system somehow,your frame and engine are the ground or"neg",,now you need to find the big thick red wire coming from the trunk and going to your engine compartment,you will need to hook up another battery with jumper cables or a battery pack,red to red black to black or a bolt on your motor.then try your key

Congrats on having a really, really nice car there, Erick! You'll likely always have either P1000 or P1111 stored in the OBDII (On-Board Diagnostic system, version II). If you have P1111 then you should be happy. It's a good code. The P1111 code indicates that all engine tests have completed by the computer, and everything is okay. The reason it is there is because the car has to be driven for a while before all tests are complete after a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) reset or battery reconnection. (P1000 means those same tests have not yet been completed, it does not indicated a problem, just the fact the 'puter has a bit more work to do - for whatever reason) The P0172 code is a different beast, however. It can mean the following: Restricted air filter Leaking fuel injector(s) IP Sensor fault (high fuel pressure) EFT Sensor fault (high fuel temperature) MAF Sensor fault (high intake air flow) HO2 Sensor(s) (1/1, 1/2) harness wiring condition fault ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components: ECT Sensor, MAF Sensor, IAT Sensor, IP Sensor, EFT Sensor, TP Sensor 1) Change out the air filter, and use the code reader to clear the code. The code is telling you one of the "banks" (sides of the engine) are running a hair rich, that's all. An air filter that is a bit restricted can cause this. (While you are at it, change the oil and filter, too - yours is a World Class Automobile, treat it as such and keep it fully maintained, Erick! I am writing this to you on a Saturday. Go outside and hand-wash that pretty baby, today!) If the code returns promptly... ...the usual reason for the code is crud - usually invisible crud - on the MAF sensor, an easy fix. If everything else about your car's performance seems okay, and this code re-appears after clearing it from the OBDII a few times, then and only then take the step of cleaning the MAF (Mass Air-Flow Sensor). (if you Google the price of a replacement MAF Sensor for your car, you'll understand why this is not the very first thing you want to do) The MAF Sensor is the honey-comb thingie after the air filter, and before the engine. It does a p**p-load of things: it tells your Jag's MAIN computer (your S-Type has 6 or 8 different computers on-board!) what the air temperature, oxygen content, humidity, and likely a few other things, too, are - many, many times each and every second you are driving down the road. Go to a NAPA Auto Parts store (or other "Quality" auto parts store), and buy the single BEST brand of MAF Sensor Spray Cleaner they have. Do NOT "skimp" and buy a WalMart or similar brand - they are NOT all created equal. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, USE "CARBURETOR CLEANER"!!! Disconnect, unplug and pull the MAF Sensor out from "under the bonnet". Make sure you use a nice blanket or something to lean on and rest against while working on it (excuse me, it's an English Motorcar, so I should say "whilst working on it"), to make sure you do not scratch the paint of your Jag. Take the MAF Sensor across the yard, or out of the garage (anywhere, far far away from the car) and spray the cleaner through it, following the directions on the can to the letter. (if you accidentally mist the spray onto the car, you will screw up the paint job something royal. You do NOT want to do that: everyone knows, if you mess with the paint on a Jag, God Himself will not allow you into Heaven) Just clear the code, Erick. If it comes back, or if you have"drive-ability" problems, then you can deal with the MAF Sensor. Don't get too terribly hung-up when your Jag throws you a code, they are want to do so. (kitties are temperamental beasts, all) Happy Motoring! ~Bruce Post Script - Join (or at least Bookmark) http://www.jaguarforums.com They will help you with EVERY problem you can (and likely will) encounter with your beautiful car. Post Post Script - one of these days, your Jag will likely jump into "limp mode", scare the heck outta you, and you will get a screaming number of OBDII codes. It will usually happen when you "need" the car most (in traffic), as you accelerate. It is a "false call": it will be a simple vacuum leak. Pull over, turn the car off, and restart it (yes, you can do it 'whilst' rolling, but the steering wheel will lock on you for a moment). If you can readily find the leak, a bit of your girlfriend's bubblegum will fix it! Fix(ed)Ya !!!

Is this even when sitting still? Could be bad fuel pump. If only while moving then possible differential bearings or gears or brake issue. Good shop should be able to put up on frame rack, run the car and use stethscope to locate noise.

great question, but engine failsafe or transmission?> no year stated, and is very key to answers, the PCM runs the engine, and if any sensor fails. the PCM Sees that (called catastrophic monitors) and instead of dying like a race car does (like this) the factory PCM is smarter than the average bear. it MIMIC's the dead sensor from about 1985 to now. most cars, in USA. called OBD . "simulates it" the ECu then logs ERRORS called DTCs ,you scan the PCM(or ECU) and it shows, say , dead CMP (crank sensor) "wild guess" one example is a dead MAF, (or MAP) the simulation is very very crude, and engine will misfire and foul spark plugs with carbon. this is very common, and worse prior to 1996 , in USA. so the CEL lamp glow running, that means Scan ME. Not starting is another matter, good compression on all cylinders good spark on all spark plugs, (not black tips (look) good fueling, of the above 2 are good, all cars run with test fuel now for about 3 seconds, long each spray. the fuel tank can be missing and i can keep the engine running for 5 minutes or longer, with my bottle of spray fuel. proving , you have fueling problem (low fuel pressure or too much) ill not do fueling as that is 3 pages long "injector tests"

Usually under the hood in a fuse and relay box close to the battery.