I have a Jaguar X300 4 litre Sovereign 1994 I am having a problem with Intermittant door locking/unlocking while travelling. Can you offer any suggestions as to the cause?
If the locks are working whilst you are driving then more and likely it is the actual door lock assy that is bad. the solenoid go bad and can cause erratic operation. But unfortunately they are only available with the whole door lock/latch assy.
I would disconnect the drivers and see if the problem still exists.
JPTCAT
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
i need the radio unlock code for 1994 jaguar xj6 stereo
Hi, I dont know if this will help, besides going to the dealer with the vin #, but the code to my 1994 xj6 is 1425
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
My 1994 Jaguar XJ6 check engine light came on after running diagnostics I got the Fuel Fail 14 Code 14 code,I would appreciate anyone being able to explain this code to me and the significance to the life of my engine and car as my vehicle when purchased did not come with any manuals
this is the most common error code, just means the one of the nods in fuel pump misfired, on every model other than the ones for usa market, after clearing the error code on vcm the check engine light would reset. for our cars its programmed to stay on.
also get fail 17 fuel 17 same thing
it will not effect the running of the car or its performance
may run a little rich
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
1994 Jaguar xj6 battery loses all power after sitting idle 3 to 7 days. Shows normal charging rate. has new batt. all systems off except theft alarm. HELP!
you have a battery power drain. Remove one fuse at a time until you find which circuit it's in. This will take a while but it will find the problem and it's free.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
I have 1996 Jaguar XJ6. I need to know where all the fuse boxes are location. Radio quit working, passenger side front and back windows are non-operational and the truck will not open by any method. All this problems happened on the same day. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
check your fuses and module that control those function on the vehicle
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
Dashboard Instrument cluster in my 1994 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas that shows odometer, speedometer, warning lights such as oil, fuel gauge, seatbelts warning lights, etc., do not work. Headlights work fine. Windows and doors also have problems, but Dashboard is essential. I do not know what speed I am doing or how much gas I have. Please help. Thanks.
there are 2 large terminal plugs with the wiring for all the instruments that are plugged into the back of that panel. make sure they are snug and in place. You reach in and under but it may easier to "simply" remove the cluster. 4 screws hold it in place accessible form underneath and with a long phillips screwdriver and lighting.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
How do I replace speakers on a 1994 xj6 and what size are they?
Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers
Required Tools:
#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10
small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer
1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access
to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely
disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each
door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits
before you attempt any panel work.
2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper
and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door
coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized
tools required.
3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:
It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the
adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting
everything back together.
a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square”
plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right
side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the
car.
b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock
release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a
single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and
the escutcheon is easily removed.
c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the
inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the
panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left
side by slip-in clips and they release easily.
d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal
screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of
the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the
sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large
flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type
press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two
additional fasteners.
e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it
releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take
much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store
it on the seats for safekeeping.
4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:
a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.
b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it
under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap
each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward
direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they
have never been removed in the past, but they will release.
c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw located in the middle of the door handle.
d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light
lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it
outwards from the door.
e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel
securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door
light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are
now removed.
f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed),
carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of
fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter.
Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as
there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is
not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the
connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another
more worker friendly location.
5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:
a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by
releasing the electrical connector.
b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each
of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly
to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not
necessary.
c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of
the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.
d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper
sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was
previously removed in Step 4a.
e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left
(passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door
lower inner panel.
f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left
(passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the
door lower inner panel.
g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift
pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet
metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the
lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.
h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back
for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing
the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting
material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker
can be removed from the panel.
6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:
Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs
will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount
either type in either model.
a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated
solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical
connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply
solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker
terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and
strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.
b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel
and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount
with only two fasteners.
c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers,
place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them
up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure
the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the
inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a
nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.
d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e
and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect
the speaker wire connector at the door panel.
7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is
literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.
8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is
complete.
9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:
This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted
woofers.
a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off
the grill.
b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet
metal mounting screws.
c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector
for the speaker wires.
d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to
the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old
leads to the new speaker terminals.
e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the
electrical connector.
f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal
screws.
g) Press the speaker grill into place.
h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
1994 jag xjs bad fuel pump, the tank is behind the back seat, I've removed the plate behind the tank in the trunk and can't get the tank to budge, are there bolts that hold this in that I can't see?
There are 2 lines coming from the back bottom of the tank. They are metal shielded lines and don't give much. They are up behind the differential. The lines are held on by two clips. You don't have to remove them, just turn. It takes a little strength to get the lines off but they will break loose. They are just push lines. Once you get them off, the tank will come right out. I just did it a week ago.
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
My 1994 Jaguar XJS (V6) will not start. When I turn the key everything lights up, battery is tested and good, but not a sound from the engine. Is there a sensor somehwere that makes the car "think" I am in gear and not in "Park." Also, I want to rplace the ignition module but do not know where it is. Is it under the dash? Lastly, is there a fuse that may be the problem? Randall
1. Yes, two sensors are provided for engine starting authorization: The first one is placed on the automatic gearbox shift selector electronic module, which send a signal to the ignition switch barrel only if the shift knob is placed in park - "P" position, or in neutral - "N" position. Only now you can take out the ignition key from the ignition switch barrel. The second one is the brake pedal switch placed above brake pedal in the pedals bracket, which send a signal to the ignition switch barrel only if the brake pedal is depressed. Only now it is possible to cranking the engine by the electrical starter motor.
2. The ignition module is called Engine Control Module (ECM), and it's placed under bonnet in the engine bay. I recommend you to access the ECM memory using suitable diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to pull out all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). Then you will be full informed about the root cause of the problem, and you will be able to repair & replace bad pieces, and reset the ECM. Then you will can start the engine.
Posted on Apr 30, 2011
how do you clear check engine light on 94 jaguar xj6 after getting fuel fail code 14
First off, you might need to actually
have your engine checked. However, if you know that the engine is in
good shape and you're still seeing that pesky check engine light in your
Jaguar XJ6, here's a cool trick for how to turn it off.
Posted on Oct 17, 2011
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