1994 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Can anyone tell me if there is a fuse behind the radio of a 1995 Jaguar XJ6? The radio has not worked for a long time and was wondering if it may be a fuse and would like to check. Problem is that it is tricky to remove and do not want to do it unless I know there is a fuse there. Cheers, Jaimie.

your not telling us much, but here are somethings to help.

does the remote lock the door ?, but the key will, it
probably boils
down to a lock actuator motor (sometimes referred to as a
lock solenoid, but it's
actually a motor) or a problem with the linkage between the
actuator motor
and the nylon lever that locks the door, or the lock lever
itself... if the problem occurs
when you key lock the car from the opposite door (as well as
when you use the remote)
then that's another clue.

check for vacuum leak -carb floats-pcv sticking -valve adjustment or damaged valve[valve train]

You may have blown a fuse or two. Have you checked fuses?

RH Tail, Number plate = C7 RH box
LH Tail, Number plate = C7 LH box

RH Reverse, Rear Fog = B8 RH box
LH Reverse, Rear Fog = B8 LH box

burnt diodes on the back of the dash can give this fault also, have somebody check the electrical contacts...

you have a bad connection. or a broken wire check for that.

YOU HAVE THE WRONG CAR, KEEP SEARCHING THE LOT AND YOU WILL FIND YOURS EVENTUALLY :P........ you might have a blown relay or a wiring short, its a Jag so the first thing you should have done is replace that ******** wiring front to back the first day you got it. they are notorious for bad wiring and short outs, especially ones from the 80s

The problem is that the foam that is glued to the fabric. It becomes crumbly and disintegrates into messy little bits that get into your hair and all over your car's interior. Trying to spray glue, while the headliner is still up there, won't work for long. The foam will keep crumbling and glue won't stick to it. It's sort of like trying to glue some cloth to the ground. No way will it stick.

There is a temporary fix on the do-it-yourself aisles in the automotive weekend warrior stores. It is a product that has a little curly cue, and a clear plastic head. The product is called a "Saggy Stopper". The clear head blends in with your headliner's color. It looks promising for a temporary fix.

Hi did you solve this problem

may need maintinence, especially a fuel filter,
or ignition coil or fuel pump.

check starter relay. should be located on firewall. sounds like bad starter

notify a dealer radio number is a dealer issued number part of vehicles anti-theft system

-Had the same problem.
-My repairs started with thumb tacks, this will only get you through a short time.
-Next was to remove it.

RECOMENDATION:

Have it replaced it was about $150.

INFO:
There really is no good fix except to replace it.




Hope this tip helps.

r/
David

the check engine light will be on 

sounds like your transmission has a trouble code bring it to a local auto parts store to see if they can read the code

disconnect the battery leave ten minutes and reconnect and see what happens

There is an emergency boot release under the back seat I believe.

take a screwdriver and place it into the locking mech where the door meets the closing latch

The screw driver should be placed in door like this
||||||
[[[[[[[[[[========)=>
||||||| <this is the door latch

Push ^^^ then pull out toward the interior of the car while toggling the handle

Under the rear seat.

you have to get a new headliner, special glue, take it all apart ie..lights panels mirrors, take some of xanex, and drink a lot of beer and then let a pro do it. Honestly, it costs about 150.00 to have it replaced, they can do it and have it back in about 24 hours. It is a ROYAL pain to do , unless you have pounds of patience floating around and a very understanding wife to stay away from you for 2 or 3 days and plenty of ventilation,I suggest you let someone else do it. Good luck.