1994 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It could in 1 of 3 places: the driver side fuse box, the center arm rest fuses or passenger side fuse box

get a bigger battery or check alternator

u have a bad short in car sumwhere when its running

20/50 semi synthetic,because of its age.would have been 5/40 when new.

I have had a similar problem, when the wire from the coil to the cap worked it out from the coil just enough to lose contact. It stayed on the coil but the inner wire was out just far enough and looked normal. If your plugs are fouled the air flow sensor may be failing as well. I would clean the outer sensor screen well with a good solvent that leaves no residues and also check for good contact for the wire into the distributor cap.

your fluid level is off you have to much or not enough fix the level and it should stop get some lucas trans fix if its low

If the last owner is not able to give you the code you will have to go to the dealer for it. There isn't just one code for all, its to deter thieves from steeling it. Without the code it endures the stereo useless.

This definitely sounds like an ignition and/or timing issue. If car hasn't been tuned up lately (plugs, cap, rotor, etc) that would be the first thing I would try. Although the crank sensor is critical to proper operation of timing and fuel delivery, these usually just quit and car will not start. Would be worth it to check the crank sensor wiring and connections though as a dirty or loose connection could certainly cause problems.

There are 2 lines coming from the back bottom of the tank. They are metal shielded lines and don't give much. They are up behind the differential. The lines are held on by two clips. You don't have to remove them, just turn. It takes a little strength to get the lines off but they will break loose. They are just push lines. Once you get them off, the tank will come right out. I just did it a week ago.

I am interested in all outside door handles if the price is reasonable. Also interested in walnut trim that goes around the center console ashtray if it's in good shape.

electrical issue, bad bulb, burned bulb some item like that. Check side markers, turn signals, parking lights etc

I have had a corroded rotor or badly worn contacts inside the distributor cap. Lightly sanding takes care of that and making sure the wires are all tight to plugs.

there are 2 connections on the bulkhead/firewall. There is one on
each side.The connectors are brass and the insulators are
plastic with a rubber boot. unless these connections are clean you may get all sorts of malfunctions with switches,lights and electric
motors. Symptoms are similar to a failing battery, something to start with..

good luck

.

Check the window switch itself. First turn the key in on position and listen if you hear the window motor clicking. If you hear the motor clicking the motor itself is bad. If you don't hear the clicking the switch itself is bad. If more than one window is affected, the window switch is bad. If your right signal just stays lit up, get out of the car while it's on, and see which bulb, the front or rear, is not on. The one that isn't on is the one that needs to be replaced.

yes there is they plugs into your air control panel....is your doors not switching?is it blowing out any other places?like the defrost or the floor

add seafoam to fuel tank this will stableize the fuel add fresh gas, pull spark plugs spray wd40 or pb blaster into each spark plug hole replace with fresh plugs make sure that everything is "DRY" before starting if mosture in on any electronic part of the car it could cause it to fail if need be use a hair dryer to warm serface to dry. make sure battery is in good shape, start car let run till up to operating temp test breaks (DO NOT PLACE IN GEAR) hold breaks down firm for 1-2 mins to make sure that brake lines do not fail due to sitting could have line rusted and you want to make sure that everthing will work properly before even moving it this includes rotors brakes emergency brakes if you are not sure and want to have someone who knows what else to do it would be a good investment to have the car "flatbeded or wheel towed" to someone you trust and have them go over the car I am guessing the car was just parked without any long time storage mesures taken spraying the undercarrage for rust prevention and rot if kept in a dry garage then you have a better chance that you will not run into problems but the basics of getting the car to roll I have told you take your time getting it up and running main things are brakes, rotors, brakelines, seals, belts, tires, hoses, electronics,battery, gas,plugs cylinder walls of engine fresh oil and filter, fresh transmission fluid and filter, fresh power steering fluid. these are the things that you need to do for a classic car like this good luck and enjoy!

the master cylinder could be defective or the proportioning valve is stuck. You can try slamming the brake pedal down at a stop. this may reset the valve, if it goes off thats your problem. if it continues to stay on pull the E Brake or parking brake see if the pedal rises up f the pedal comes up it may mean your rear shoes are worn and the wheel cylinder or caliper seal is leaking. to test if all brakes are working go about 10 mph Be sure you e brake works then hit the brakes once you stop get out and look if there is rubber on the ground on all four wheels. do this in a area where it's safe and you can come to a atop before hitting someone Else's property or going over a cliff. If the front brakes work then your rear are not working if there is no marks on front that means there is a problem with the front brake system. remember the light is a warning jamming down the brakes may cause the master cylinder to fail so be sure your mechanicl emergency brake works good before doing test. otherwise you may experince the pucker factor, one guy at a shop I worked for pushed his tool box ouy yhr tindoor he didn't check the e-brake before doing the test in front of the shop. Opps.

try locking vehicle with remote then unlock it with remote,it might be the security needs to be reset.if that doesnt work look at the inertia switch

a fuse is blown press the vcm button and it will tell you which fuse

there is a switch for safety that goes it is just under the selecter remove cover and unplug replace and your done also some time dirt and grime get caught up in ti so a good clean will do