20 Most Recent 1992 Jaguar XJ6 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Several different ways to do this , but I am not sure for jaguar. Anyway first if you have a fob lock the car, wait several minutes then open with the fob. second insert the key and lock the , wait , then try, third turn try car on , don't start, wait at least ten minutes turn it off then try to start, sometimes you have to do this three times. fourth call the dealer and ask for parts, these guys are fairly helpfull good luck

Check to make sure the firing order on the wires is right. Also make sure the wire from the coil to the cap is tight and well connected at both ends. I have also forgotten to put the rotor back myself more than once..If you have both spark and gas..it has to fire. If one is missing you don;t go....

my manual says fuel fail 14 deals with yourr coolant temperature sensor is no in operating range

When you use the turn signal does the light come on and stay on? If this is the case i would look at changing you signal flasher, its a square box most likely under the hood but may be in the cabin. good luck

The 92 model only had the single shocks. Dont think you can change to the double ones.

There is a red colored cap under the hood accessible from the driver side when the hood is up. It can be very tight especially if the rubber washer under the cap is worn or lost. It is above the dip sticks for the oil and transmission.

Take it to a mechanic. On a car that old, could be a coil, or the main computer.

just happened to mines its the break accumulator. pop the hood and look at that black ball, turn the key but dont crank. if u dont hear that turn on and run for about thirty seconds thats your problem....

this has to do with the engines ability to warm up and meter the fuel. either the thermostat is sticking or the coolant temp sensor is out of range. there are 2 of them at least, one for the guage and one for the pcm. if you find it is the t-stat sticking, replace with jaguar parts.

the vn number y mean its on the imformation plate located under the bonnett

Hello: Approximately above the alternator. The large hose leading from it across the front of the engine should be a giveaway. It is within that housing with the large hose.

Sounds like a clogged fuel filter.

Change speed sensor located near the gearbox.

under the car, near left rear tire. If you cant find the filter, you really should have a qualified person to work on it for you.

code 24 is the ignition amplifier circuit

After removing all connections and wiring from the tank and the sending unit and depressurize fuel system and drain the fuel tank and most importantly TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY this is what you have to do :
1- Make sure to mark the wires for the sending unit so that you do not have a problem connecting in the correct place. 2- Remove bolts securing spare wheel mounting bracket and remove bracket. 3- Remove tank upper insulation pad. 4- Disconnect fuel pump harness from evaporative loss flange connection 5- Release harness attached to tank retaining straps and reposition harness downward. 6- Disconnect vapor pipe assembly from underbody pipe. 7- Push back collars on quickfit connectors and remove vapor pipe and over-pressure pipe from evaporative loss flange port. 8- Remove bolts securing tank retaining straps. 9- reposition straps upwards for access. 10- Remove strap holding filler housing solenoid block connector to harness and disconnect connector. 11- Disconnect drain tube from aperture seal (small pipe beside big one) 12- Open filler cap and remove filler neck garter spring. 13- Remove filler housing bolts. 14- Displace filler housing from body opening 15- Remove fuel tank. 16- Remove hose from evaporative loss flange and filler neck , ( Bend weld tag upwards to release hose). 17- Remove evaporative loss flange lock ring. 18- Lift flange from tank enough to disconnect fuel pump harness. 19- Remove flange and seal. 20- Inside tank , loosen hose clamps and remove fuel hoses from fuel pump module. 21- Remove fuel pump module and mounting rubber , note position of mounting rubber lugs. 22- Loosen hose clamps and remove two fuel hoses inside tank. 23- Remove tank sending unit. 24- Remove magnetic drain plug and make sure that you clean it well.
That is it your tank is out , and make sure that you mark every thing that you disconnected to install back in its proper place.
If you need any more help please let me know

Have the windscreen resealed. A tempory fix is to tape around the windscreen joint with a wide PVC tape to prevent the ingress of the water.

how many miles on vehicle??? could be s fuel problem but i have also seen the ignition coils dry up and have similar problems,try the coil first,its ALOT cheaper,hope this helps

what do you need to do? to remove the whole hub you need to undo the nut in the centre of the hub, support the car on stands on the subframe and remove the roadwheel, loosen and slide out the bolt holding the hub to the lower arm and tap the centre shaft out with a copper hammer (it should not be too tight) the long bolt has seals and shims in the hub, keep them in the same place. You can usually get a Haynes manual from the library, it will be a big help

First inspect the 6pin connector for any physical damages or corrosion. For corrosion you will just need it cleaned. Check out if the wiring is still ok and there are no loose or open wires. If that checks out ok, inspect the inlet of the fuel, particularly the valves. Check first for corrosion and have the valve tested if they are opening or closing correctly. You may replace the solenoid if you find the valves not opening or closing correctly. Try cleaning the valves and the inlets first.