Top 20 2004 Hyundai Elantra - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The CVVT (Continuously Variable Valve Timing) system is installed to the chain sprocket of the exhaust camshaft. There is no variation in valve timing of the exhaust cam because the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt. The timing of the intake cam is varied by the relative operation the CVVT vane to the housing. This system helps the engine decrease exhaust gases and increase engine power and fuel economy by changing the valve open/close timing of the intake camshaft.

The code you are getting can be caused by a mechanical problem with the CVVT or with an Engine Control Module (ECM) malfunction. The most common cause of a mechanical failure of this system is debris clogging the very small oil ports that control the position of the CVVT vane hub. Improper oil viscosity can affect this as well as deposits caused by not changing oil at the specified intervals.

There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that deals with properly checking the CVVT system for mechanical/electrical failures. It is bulletin Number 09-EM-002.

Yes it is

All that hard driving didn't help

About $2500 should fix you up, with a rebuild
or reman trans

Never changed the fluid did you?

Obviously, it's an electrical problem. Electrical problems are many, yet they elude us when determing the CAUSE. You describe an INTERMITTENT OVERLOAD on the circuit... the challenge here is to determine WHICH circuit!

If you're not an electrician, then let an ELECTRICIAN troubleshoot it.

I, as an ELECTRICIAN, could teach you what you need to know to troubleshoot/diagnose electrical issues like this. However, this is not the forum for it. Have an electrician diagnose it. BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE.

During the most light traffic period, go to any chain auto parts store and ask them to scan your computer. Ask first, but they normally charge nothing for this service. If there is no stored code(s) then you still have a problem but if the system does have them, you will have somewhere to start.
While you are there, check if they have a Haynes service manual for your car. These cost ~ $20-25 and everyone should have one in their vehicle since, in an emergency, don't count on all service shops having possession of the right books.

check fuse 6 (10A) and fuse 9 (10A) in the fuse box under the left side of the dash near the kick panel.

Install the cylinder head bolts. Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts in sequence as shown in illustration, using the Cylinder Head Bolt Wrench (09221 - 32001) or equivalent. Repeat the procedure, re-tightening all cylinder head bolt to the specified torque. (torque spec is Cold Engine 105-115 Nm (76-83 ft lb) )
. Install the timing belt tensioner pulley.
. Install the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket, making sure that the tension side is tightened by turning the camshaft sprocket in reverse, all timing marks are in alignment.
. Adjust the timing according to "Timing Belt"
. Install the rocker cover and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: Rocker cover belt:

2.5-3.5 Nm (25-35 kg.cm, 2-3 ft. lbs.)

. Install the timing belt cover.
Install the new intake manifold gasket and the intake manifold. Tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
Install the new exhaust manifold gasket and the exhaust manifold. Tighten the exhaust manifold attaching nuts to the specified torque.
. Install the surge tank and tighten the nuts bolts to the specified torque.
. Install the power steering oil pump and bracket.
. Install the ignition coil.
. Install the air intake hose.
Connect the vacuum hose, fuel hose and water hose.
. Install breather hose.

What kind of SMOKE?...Steam?, Burning oil?, Electrical? What does it smell like?
Sorry, Insufficient information to even begin to help.

Yep. As silly as it sounds, that's correct.

Check your coolant level, low fluid can cause this. Check level with engine fully warm, heater on high. Check your manual to see if you have any air bleeds, these soemtimes look like grease fitting, and are located at higher spots in the cooling system.

is on the side of your oil pan

Your transmission fluid is dangerously low (tranny is dry). The pops & jerks are the transmission
internal components trying not to seize onto each other due to lack of lubrication and/or overheating.
Low transmission fluid leads not only to loss of lubrication but lots of overheating (of the tranny).
The loss of Elantra performance (speed tops out at 55), is caused by power loss due to friction inside the transmission. All your power is lost overheating the transmission (toward destruction), instead of
being transmitted through the transmission to the wheels.

The 2004 Elantra takes Hyundai SP-III Automatic Transmission Fluid, with 8.4 quarts used in a
total refill - but just 5 quarts at a fluid change. For How-to transmission fluid change instructions:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Hyundai-Repair-815/2004-Elantra-GT-transmission.htm

www.autozone.com claims that 2004 Hyundai Elantra can take these non-Hyundai ATF's:
Lucas Semi-Synthetic Multivehicle ATF
Pennzoil Muilt Vehicle ATF
Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF
Castrol High Mileage ATF

CODE P2237 HO2S 11 PUMPING CURRENT CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN BANK 1 SENSOR 1 POSSIBLE CAUSES. POOR CONNECTION OR DAMAGED HARNESS, OPEN IN HO2S CONTROL CIRCUIT, FAULTY HO2S,THE ECM HAS FAILED.

If you are replacing the headlight bulbs and just a short time their bad again you need to change your techniquie in installing the bulbs. You can't touch the lens of the bulb with anything ( not your finger) or the bulb will overheat in operation and burn out. with the old bulb out and the pulg laying out to where you can get it or someone else holding it. Open the package the new bulb comes in so just the plug end sticks out of the package. holding the bulb by the package install the buld into tne socket and them hold the socket only to put it into the back of the headlight with out running into any thing as touching anything can cause the buld to fail/ If the light fixture is getting water or dirt inside of it it will need to be repalaced.

While there are a number of things that can cause those symtoms, one of the most common causes is the MAF, ( mass airflow ), sensor.
This can cause erratic changes in the management of fuel/air mix ratio, as well as mis management of proper fuel to the fuel injectors.

I hope this helps you.

no it is not a friction mount

Go to another mechanic! The mechanic you are using now isnt doing something right. The only way you should lose two clutch packs in 18,000 miles is if you are driving like on a nascar circuit! If you are driving normally, only something mechanically wrong can cause this.

I would be checking the throwout bearing. But, if the clutch isn't slipping, maybe leave it for now?

If you put it in 5th gear, let out the clutch with handbrake applied and it stalls--the clutch isn't slipping for sure.

dealers will go deep in you pocket shop around ,you have some good mechanics out there that will do the job for cheaper

the whining is probably power steering fluid and the other problem may be clutch fluid

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

This can be caused by a faulty MAF (mass air flow) sensor or TPS (throttle position sensor). If one of this sensor is faulty the engine tends to speed up, slow down or have an erratic idle. Have it checked and replace if necessary.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!