20 Most Recent 2004 Land Rover Discovery Questions & Answers

https://www.carstereocode.com/unlock.php?mk=23

Yes this sounds like the throttle body warmer thing-- on a LR that isn't in a cold climate you can just bypass it. I did on my DII in california.

A dealer replacement is the only option to reset the system and that is an expensive fix. You can buy a replacement fob online but be careful - it will need to be fully compatible or you run the risk of locking yourself out OR losing the central locking function. I have no connection with this seller, but at least they make all the right noises: https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/Land-Rover-Key-Fob-Remote-s/1836.htm Do more homework - especially on the specialist Land Rover forums before buying

Please check that the electric cooling fan operates when the engine gets up to temperature. Quite a common fault.

The ignition system is controlled by the ECM. Check power at fuse box in on right side under dash. Check fuses right side engine compartmentlower dash panel if all OK check power to ECM located right side "A" pillar in alloy box. this unit could be faulty if no spark at coils, assuming they have been connected correctly. may have to get tested for codes at L/R dealer or someone with test tool. Another source of problem may well be flat battery in transponder key. The indicator light on the dash willflash rapidly for 10 seconds if the vehicle has been unlocked with the remote and the drivers door is opened if the battery in remote is getting low

land rover used a vacuum set up check the vacuum line at the actuator, usually crack at the actuator, cut end off and put back on. also check to see if brake lights are on all the time when key is on if so then brake switch, also would add check the fuse first and the vaccum pump may need replaced if you dont find anything with vacuum lines, fuse, brake switch, replace the actuator before you replace the pump.

a quick stop a service shop will show you how it is done

Check battery voltage. Should be between 13.6v and 14.4V. If not, replace or charge up your battery. Also check your fuseable links, I have had them go a few times on DII's with full batteries and cause no starting issues (no crank, starter doesn't move) hope this helps!

P1415 = Secondary Air Injection System Bank 1 (Air Pump Circuit Malfunction) We have found in the shop that this is most likely just a clogged driver's side air check valve.

Have scanned with a srs reader and find out what is wrong. Could be something from a seatbelt sensor to a major components. However your airbags won't protect in a crash until get fixed

The size numbers you are referring to- 24 and 34, refer to the BCI group number of the battery. These numbers define the physical dimensions of the battery case- that's it! It has nothing to do with the CCA [cold cranking amps rating] or AH [amps per hour rating], or the battery life. BCI stands for Battery Council International; it is a trade association of manufacturers of original equipment (OEM) and after-market auto batteries. This association is responsible for setting the standards and testing dimension and sizes of lead acid batteries. So, to sum it all up, the BCI 24 battery has the following dimensions: its Length 10.3" (260mm); Its Width is 6.8" (175mm); and its Height 8.9" (225mm) The BCI 34 battery has the following dimensions: Its Length is 10.3" (260mm); Its Width is 6.8" (175mm); and its height is 7.9" (200mm) Both batteries have the positive polarity on the left hand side and are located on the top of the battery; they are for automotive use and are SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) approved standards. The difference between the two batteries are in their dimensional height; the BCI 24 is 8.9'' whereas the BCI 34 height is shorter at 7.9" by 1". As long as the battery tray and the battery hold down clamps can secure the BCI 34 in place, you should have no problems. HOWEVER, should you decide to buy the BCI 34, make sure the CCA rating is the same or more than the BCI 24; that's where it counts the most in cold weather. And of course, the reserve Capacity rating (RC). Never compromise the aforementioned by going with lower ratings when replacing a battery to save a few bucks, because it will cost you more money in the long run when having to call for AAA services or replacing the battery again because of its short life due to energy demands that automobiles of today command as a result of all the electronic components that are used during the operation of the vehicle or the paralytic draw (slow power drain of the ECM and its components) when not in use.

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SERIES 2 1999 2006 WORKSHOP SERVICE MA get your car fix right now

this is actually the internal DC motor which comes inside the door latch. Land Rover doesn't sell it separately. You need to buy the whole door latch to have this problem sorted out. or else you can buy the DC motor from me as I made a special order from a factory for those DC motors as they are common fault in most of new Land rover generation. each motor costs you $30 +shipping Regards..

Clean throttle body bore and plate .

Most likely the switch itself. Try removing and cleaning it before doing anything more expensive

from listening to other Land Rover owners this type of thing is very common , the quickest thing to try is to press the lock button on the fob four times , this should resync the fob and alarm/immob and ignition,if no better then i'm afraid a visit to a mechanic with some landrover experience would be my advise

Remove the cover and remove the bulb until you can find and correct the problem.