I have a whistling sound coming from the engine anytime I am not accelerating. This is constant as soon as I start the engine. No leaks are apparent, however, I also seem to be losing coolant over a 3 month period. Suggestions?
Take a look at the belt see if it has cracks or worn grooves.. if it dose have it replaced. if it doesn't pull on the belt back and forth see if the tension pully is giving the belt tension( it supposed to be about 1/2 of an inche to an inch or try to turn the belt around to almost half way) if not replace the tensioner pully. if good check the free pully by starting the car and spary a bit of wd40 on the center of the pully if noise disappers replace the free pully. if not see ur local auto shop..
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
My land rover discovery 2001 used - TC amber , ABS amber and off road amber warning light are on at the same. What is the problem? Do I need new set of tires? Please help.
Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth .....
Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of
the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look
at some of the common problems with the antilock
brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic
braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti
lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco
is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better
known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the
automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and
suspension systems for trucks. According to the company,
two out of three commercial vehicles with
advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco
products.
The Land Rover system includes four-wheel
antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel
traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls
the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature.
The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco
product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also
found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS.
One of the most common ABS questions I
hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction
Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on?
All three of those systems share a common set of
core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs,
the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all
three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause
a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have
a fault that would only disable one of the three systems.
99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are.
To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a
Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems
are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner
won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4
or Autologic tools for this work.
The most common faults are wheel speed
sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land
Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed
wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of
the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor
whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and
whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts
to more than 5 volts.
If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are
two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire
hub on the affected corner. This is the approach
favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called
a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part
of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or
corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel
bearing. The only way to service it is to change the
hub.
As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694)
cost around $400 and take about three hours to
change.
The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly
easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you
should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged.
The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing
gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion.
That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches.
If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the
hub has any free play at all – you need a complete
assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to
fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 /
rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour
to swap.
The path you choose should be determined by
examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the
hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor
alone will fix your problem.
Every now and then you will see a Rover that has
wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS
sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for
corrosion.
The next common fault in these systems
is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve
is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the
location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator
incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and
a brake master cylinder into one unit.
If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see
the three warning lights on the dash and there will be
one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure.
Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these
faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they
are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or
grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and
cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator.
Until now, this problem was addressed by
replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a
$1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure
produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover
finally listened up and developed a fix.
As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle
valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to
remove the modulator and flip it over to install the
valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator,
replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes
three hours or so.
This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement
over the former method of addressing this problem.
The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030).
If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask
for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation
instructions.
Another common problem is a mushy
brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation
for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure.
Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land
Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit
over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the
pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged
from the modulator.
If you are paying for this service, expect a labor
bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of
brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they
use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this
process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump
and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without
one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a
really good pedal without cycling pump and valves.
There is no shortcut for this job. You need two
people and the Land Rover tester.
We see quite a few stop lamp circuit
problems. The usual way this problem manifests
itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery
II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out
of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake
light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear.
If that happens to you, the first step is to check
the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where
the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded,
and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector,
if your Rover has one. A short there can pop
fuses.
If the fuses are good, you should check the stop
lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If
you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of
park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper
clip.
Finally, you should check your Rover to
see
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
At approx 2000 to 2500 RPM in any gear there is a harsh vibration through the car. Lift off and it goes away. Auto shifts smoothly, engine run well plenty of power. No warning lights on oil levels OK. No heating problems or brake problems. Car is otherwise excellant. Vibration is very harsh adn can be heard as well as fel through floor
The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
I have a Land Rover Discovery and it is stuck in park. No brake lights when I press the brakes. I have replaced the brake light switch and replaced a blown fuse. Still no luck. Any thoughts on what else it may be?
Had the same problem with my 03 Disco. Went through the usual, checking the fuses, etc. I went ahead and replaced my break light switch on the brake pedal. $15.00 fix, or I thought so; still had the problem! Took it in for repairs and found out it was fuses after all... To get the parking lock to disengage you need to pull of the housing, which is tough and then press in the locking pin at the base of the shift lever to shift out of park. you can do it with the engine running and it will drive just fine until you put it into park again. Check your brake lights if there is a problem. Could be a sign of the brake switch failure. In my case the lights were out, but a cheap trailer rental did the damage. The short in the trailer blew some fuses and it was a problem that cost me $60.00 at the repair shop....
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
I own a 2001 Land Rover Discovery II. Recently I've been having difficulty getting the key to turn in the door lock. Last night I couldn't get the key to turn at all so I entered through the rear door, setting off the alarm. When I got into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition the key turned and the electrical system turned on but the car would not start. Is there any way to reset my security system and solve this problem?
Normally by turning key in door lock this resets alarm also try passenger as well-owners manual should also give clues-try lubricating your lock with a can of triflow to free up tumblers also you may have poorly cut key or tumbler issues-if you can't find a can of triflow-wd-40 in a pinch.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
I think I had better go into more detail. I was fitting a 2nd battery and had to cut the inner guard. The angle grinder slipped and hit the main wiring harness. It cut 13 wires. I carefully matched these wires and soldered them all . At the time all the batteries were disconnected. Prior to this I did have one short. I had disconnect the 2 batteries in the engine compartment but had forgotten the one in the boot. So that was then disconnected. When I had finished and went to start the car the engine turns over but the hazard lights flash and the hill descent light is on. When I turned the ignition off the hazard lights continue to flash so had to remove the fuse for them. I have checked all the fuses and fusable links and all are ok. I have tried using 2 separate keys. Central locking etc all fine.
Since there are two separate problems that occurred during the battery transition, try as we may, we all make mistakes. Go over the wires that you soldered again. I know you already did that but look for two wired similar. But with one difference. More aptly...a green wire with a black tracer, and a black wire with a green tracer. Or a similar scenario. It's a subtle difference. But the old adage of killing two birds with one stone. Probe the wires with the ignition off to see which one has constant power (going to the hazards) and look for it's counterpart.
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
land rover discovery II has SRS light on and wondering what the usual problems are?
SRS light can come on under the following cases mentioned below:
The most preeminent problem would be concerned with the air bag.
Posted on Nov 14, 2010
I need the serpentine belt routing for a 98 land rover discovery. 4.0 with air and everything. Thanks
The serpentine belt routing diagram for a 1998 Land Rover Discovery 4.0 liters with A/C
CS = Crankshaft
F = Fan pulley
G = Guide pulley
Gen = Alternator
HP = Hydraulic Pump
T = Tensioner
AC = Air Conditioning
PAS = Power Assisted Steering
Posted on Nov 16, 2010
Engine cranks well. Fuel to injectors, injectors working. Glow plugs working. Wiring loom from computer to injectors recently replaced. Computer is clean and working well. Diagnostics shows no fault. What can this be?
Check the crank and cam position sensors...sometimes they don't kick the SES light on until they fail. one of the main symptoms of the cam position sensor failing is the "no start, but cranks fine" issue. This happens especially when the engine has been driven and is warm. If the sensor has failed, the engine won't start at all, and everything else will seem fine..the part is usually cheap at the store, and usually easy to replace since it will be near the top of the engine somewhere. I'd start with that and see how it goes...The other sensor I mentioned is also critical in the timing of the engine the "crank sensor" if it fails, it may also cause that situation. The two sensors together tell the CPU where the cam and crank are in their timing sequences. If one isn't working, the CPU won't know where to fire what cylinder, so it just won't fire any of them. ie: No Start. I would replace them both just to be sure. Since you have checked everything else, and it cranks, I can't think of anything else at this point. Good luck. :)
Posted on Jun 09, 2012
i don't have a manual. it can't be to hard.
Use a ball point pen, or something else to press in the points below the clock LCD. Left one does hours, right one does minutes.
Posted on Oct 16, 2014
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