Top 10 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II Questions & Answers

Take a look at the belt see if it has cracks or worn grooves.. if it dose have it replaced. if it doesn't pull on the belt back and forth see if the tension pully is giving the belt tension( it supposed to be about 1/2 of an inche to an inch or try to turn the belt around to almost half way) if not replace the tensioner pully. if good check the free pully by starting the car and spary a bit of wd40 on the center of the pully if noise disappers replace the free pully. if not see ur local auto shop..

Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth ..... 
 
Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of 
the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look 
at some of the common problems with the antilock 
brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic 
braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti 
lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco 
is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better 
known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the 
automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and 
suspension systems for trucks. According to the company, 
two out of three commercial vehicles with 
advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco 
products. 
The Land Rover system includes four-wheel 
antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel 
traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls 
the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature. 
The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco 
product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also 
found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS. 
One of the most common ABS questions I 
hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction 
Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on? 
All three of those systems share a common set of 
core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, 
the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all 
three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause 
a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have 
a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 
99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are. 
To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a 
Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems 
are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner 
won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 
or Autologic tools for this work. 
The most common faults are wheel speed 
sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land 
Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed 
wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of 
the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor 
whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and 
whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts 
to more than 5 volts. 
If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are 
two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire 
hub on the affected corner. This is the approach 
favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called 
a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part 
of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or 
corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel 
bearing. The only way to service it is to change the 
hub. 
As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694) 
cost around $400 and take about three hours to 
change. 
The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly 
easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you 
should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. 
The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing 
gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. 
That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. 
If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the 
hub has any free play at all – you need a complete 
assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to 
fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 / 
rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour 
to swap. 
The path you choose should be determined by 
examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the 
hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor 
alone will fix your problem. 
Every now and then you will see a Rover that has 
wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS 
sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for 
corrosion. 
The next common fault in these systems 
is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve 
is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the 
location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator 
incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and 
a brake master cylinder into one unit. 
If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see 
the three warning lights on the dash and there will be 
one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. 
Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these 
faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they 
are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or 
grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and 
cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator. 
Until now, this problem was addressed by 
replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a 
$1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure 
produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover 
finally listened up and developed a fix. 
As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle 
valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to 
remove the modulator and flip it over to install the 
valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, 
replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 
three hours or so. 
This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement 
over the former method of addressing this problem. 
The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030). 
If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask 
for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation 
instructions. 
Another common problem is a mushy 
brake pedal. In my experience, the only explanation 
for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. 
Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land 
Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit 
over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the 
pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged 
from the modulator. 
If you are paying for this service, expect a labor 
bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of 
brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they 
use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this 
process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump 
and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without 
one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a 
really good pedal without cycling pump and valves. 
There is no shortcut for this job. You need two 
people and the Land Rover tester. 
We see quite a few stop lamp circuit 
problems. The usual way this problem manifests 
itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park. Discovery 
II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out 
of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake 
light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear. 
If that happens to you, the first step is to check 
the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where 
the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded, 
and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector, 
if your Rover has one. A short there can pop 
fuses. 
If the fuses are good, you should check the stop 
lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If 
you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of 
park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper 
clip. 
Finally, you should check your Rover to 
see

The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.

Had the same problem with my 03 Disco. Went through the usual, checking the fuses, etc. I went ahead and replaced my break light switch on the brake pedal. $15.00 fix, or I thought so; still had the problem! Took it in for repairs and found out it was fuses after all... To get the parking lock to disengage you need to pull of the housing, which is tough and then press in the locking pin at the base of the shift lever to shift out of park. you can do it with the engine running and it will drive just fine until you put it into park again. Check your brake lights if there is a problem. Could be a sign of the brake switch failure. In my case the lights were out, but a cheap trailer rental did the damage. The short in the trailer blew some fuses and it was a problem that cost me $60.00 at the repair shop....

Normally by turning key in door lock this resets alarm also try passenger as well-owners manual should also give clues-try lubricating your lock with a can of triflow to free up tumblers also you may have poorly cut key or tumbler issues-if you can't find a can of triflow-wd-40 in a pinch.

Since there are two separate problems that occurred during the battery transition, try as we may, we all make mistakes. Go over the wires that you soldered again. I know you already did that but look for two wired similar. But with one difference. More aptly...a green wire with a black tracer, and a black wire with a green tracer. Or a similar scenario. It's a subtle difference. But the old adage of killing two birds with one stone. Probe the wires with the ignition off to see which one has constant power (going to the hazards) and look for it's counterpart.

SRS light can come on under the following cases mentioned below:

• If the car battery drains or you disconnect it for any reason
• Usage of after market gauge clusters
• If the ECU is defective or Air bag is defective or not aligned properly.
• If the care met an accident or the clock springs inside your steering wheel is bad.

The most preeminent problem would be concerned with the air bag.

The serpentine belt routing diagram for a 1998 Land Rover Discovery 4.0 liters with A/C


CS = Crankshaft
F = Fan pulley
G = Guide pulley
Gen = Alternator
HP = Hydraulic Pump
T = Tensioner
AC = Air Conditioning
PAS = Power Assisted Steering

Check the crank and cam position sensors...sometimes they don't kick the SES light on until they fail. one of the main symptoms of the cam position sensor failing is the "no start, but cranks fine" issue. This happens especially when the engine has been driven and is warm. If the sensor has failed, the engine won't start at all, and everything else will seem fine..the part is usually cheap at the store, and usually easy to replace since it will be near the top of the engine somewhere. I'd start with that and see how it goes...The other sensor I mentioned is also critical in the timing of the engine the "crank sensor" if it fails, it may also cause that situation. The two sensors together tell the CPU where the cam and crank are in their timing sequences. If one isn't working, the CPU won't know where to fire what cylinder, so it just won't fire any of them. ie: No Start. I would replace them both just to be sure. Since you have checked everything else, and it cranks, I can't think of anything else at this point. Good luck. :)

Use a ball point pen, or something else to press in the points below the clock LCD. Left one does hours, right one does minutes.