20 Most Recent 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II Questions & Answers

ANDY, CHECK HERE... https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2001-td5-torque-settings-injector-clamp-rocker-shaft.129075/

lava kkt35 keypad not working solution sed me pls

maybe a service or possible turbo problems

Pull the alarm Relay. RELAY center under hood upper driver corner. Turn all lights off. Radio off. All doors closed.

1. Remove Battery, Negative, First. Then Positive.
2. Find Alarm Relay. Pull Relay. If also alarm Fuse Pull Fuse.
3. Has been over 5 minutes that battery is disconnected.
4. Turn ignition switch to RUN Position. Leave Driver door open.
5. Now reconnnect Battery.
6. Turn ignition to OFF. Close door.
7. Mil illumination, (check ingine light), Should come on. ECU can not find Alarm. Try to start Vehicle.

I would like to know if this works for you. Jos questions & comments

I think the access is under the carpet in the rear cargo area. You have to remove the trim to get the carpet up, or just cut the carpet to access the fuel pump cover like I did in my truck -- (I didn't care about keeping it perfect, so I cut a flap in the carpet to get to the fuel pump access cover)

The auto trans gear shifter must be in Neutral to select low / high first!

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/24575-p1171-error-code-service-engine-soon.html P1171 P1174 Codes Land Rover Forums Land Rover Enthusiast Forum Have a look on the 2 links above.

Huseyin, Clean engine with engine cleaner in suspect area of leak, then pressure wash and let dry. Run engine and watch for where leak is coming from. Could be gaskets or seals to a rust hole in oil pan. check links below. Oil leak Discovery 2 Land Rover 2001 https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj8pOj22ofLAhXJ7B4KHR0aDkcQFgguMAY&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.landroversonly.com%2Fforums%2Ff40%2F2001-disco-ii-se-oil-leak-42672%2F&usg=AFQjCNEftnm4-7Aq9H09ZdaV3MXII33rog https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj8pOj22ofLAhXJ7B4KHR0aDkcQFgg7MAc&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdiscoweb.org%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D63448&usg=AFQjCNEMzVL1Ag2upuf2rZYxJhUnNDnZDQ Maintenance checking for leaks

Try google images

You may be getting too much voltage. Most coils do not run on a full 12 volts. Best to ask here: http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/gtsearch.php?cx=partner-pub-7865546952023728%3Az07e5j7y5y5&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=bad+coil&sa=Search&siteurl=www.landroversonly.com%2Fforums%2Ff40%2Fhelp-disco-coil-pack-27697%2F&ref=www.google.com%2F&ss=4943j4486965j10

So u stole a Land Rover? Good luck. Some of them have immobilizer circuits. If you have money for gas you can call land rover dealer and get it fixed with insurance. Or not.

which relay do you refer to please, add the detail and resubmit your query

The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.

Fluid level is low so under acceleration it sloshes to the rear uncovering the sensor coasting it covers the sensor so you need to top it up

Most likely your heater hoses or radiator / lower radiator hose has been worn through or otherwise unclamped from your engine. The fluid could be seen as coming out of the bottom even though the tear or break is at the back, side or top of the engine block. Soak up the fluids up after the engine cools. Dry off everything in and around the engine with rags or whatever you can spare. Then as you slowly add fluid you may be able to pinpoint the exact spot where the fluid is leaking. That's your repair spot. It is VERY unlikely your engine is actually broken. The worst case would be a rusted through freeze plug (these are located below the exhaust manifold to keep frozen fluid from breaking your block in extremely cold, say minus 50 degrees, temperatures). Those take a mechanic to replace. Parts are cheap. Labor should not be more than a few hundred dollars at most. Probably less.

is that a question ? or fact ? If you don't have spark at the plugs I would check the coil or electronic ignition module ,distributor cap cracked? bad wires ?