2000 Land Rover Discovery - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

problem most likely in the plug/connection wiring -- broken , loose or corroded if the indicators of the vehicle work it is not a fuse problem but wiring and connection

When you say whine does it only occur under acceleration only? If so most likely the wheel hub assembly or some will say wheel bearing but on these vehicles it is complete hub assembly. If you turn or swerve one way then the other does it go away in one direction? If so another strong indication of hub wearing out. If not, and it is a really high whine with acceleration it is also possibly the transmission. I have heard of this complaint before, it's not a sign of failure just a noise that develops due to the pressure placed on bearing under a load. First change fluid and filter for tranny after a good flushing. Replace with high quality fluid and a bottle of transmission seal restore product. Go 1000 miles, change fluid again, if noise is still there turn up radio.
Sorry but just a whine under acceleration isn't a lot to go on. But I'm willing to bet wheel hub. 9 out of ten front end whine complaints is wheel hub or bearing especially on a heavy 4x4 suv

check the vacuum hose to the transmission actuator that unit controls the ratio selection according the throttle setting and load on the vehicle

Sounds like a fuel problem, not electrical. 1. Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition? If not there may be a broken wiring connection to the pump.(see below) 2. Find the join where the fuel enters the intake manifold. (One is the line in, the other is the return) Undo the joint then turn on the ignition. If fuel comes out, then the pump is OK and you may have just had an airlock. 3. If you could not hear the fuel pump, first check the fuses. If all OK, you will have to remove the carpet in the load space to get to the pump contacts. With a test lamp or a multimeter and the ignition "on" check to see if there is actually power to the pump. If not, it is quite likely the wiring has broken under the vehicle - not a big job to fix it, just dirty and awkward. If you can't find a break, run a test wire from the battery to the pump - you will not need the ignition to test it. - if the pump works, the problem is wiring. If not, it could be the pump itself.

IF its runs its not the motor I think it the switch on the calum

park on a hill, motor up hill there is a T on heat hole remove cap and fill be sure to check coolant before removing it from hill. the steeper the hill the better (be sure to turn on heater to push air out of line )

You do not say, but if this is the V8 petrol engine, you probably have a leak at the valley gasket. After 5+ years, this is entirely possible. Alternatively it may be a failed heater hose.

check rear brake shoes or pads

Just the two electrical boxes under the hood (both under black covers) and then you have the fuse box under the steering column (two flat head screws to release the hinged cover) and that reveals a fuse box below the column.

Could be a blown turbo

Sounds like you are in need of a transmission rebuild.

#1. Check battery voltage and battery cables. Voltage should be between 13.6 / 14.4 Volts. #2. Follow all ground connections & make sure everything is snug. 90% of the time, the M and S will flash do to a loose batt cable or a loose ground somewhere, or even a dying battery that needs replaced.

It should unlock with the second click of the remove... if not it sounds like you (may) have a bad door lock actuator in the rear door

Greetings ' Best deal for your solutions" . please visit the site. I also use the site and it was very help full for you.

If you are talking about the turn indicator, you will need to remove the lens and then replace the bulb.

Replace the speedo sensor. Usually the last sensor on the transmission. Near the drive shaft.

If that was easy we would not need keys and it sure would really help car thieves.

Most likely from lack of use. Alternatively the transmission is wound up where by you need to jack up both wheels on one side to release the load on the axles. Or you can take it on some long grass, sand or other slippery surface, belt it around getting wheelspin and it should pop out. Hold your hand gently against the stick while you do it and it should come free. Don't drive it any further than absolutely necessary on a hard surface to do this because damage will result. You can do it by dropping 2 wheels onto the verge so they slip a bit.

Probably not a worn clutch, When the clutch plate get worn it tend to slip, so going into gear gets easier, not harder (but vehicle will not move in that event either)

You don't say the year, model or mileage so I only give some guesses;

1. I suspect tat the problem might not be the clutch at all, but lay in the transmission or shift linkage. If the problem were the clutch, slave or associated linkage, the problem would show up in other gear selections.The reverse gear is more functional related to the transfer gears (Lo-Hi) than the main gearbox, so having it work easier in low-range might make some sense.
2. I would first check the shift linkage to see if it is out of adjustment. If this is ok;
   
3. Next I would expect to find a worn bearing(roller gear cluster) in the transmission, probably at the reverse gear shaft. This would involve a removal and overhaul of the transmission, and I hope this is not the problem.

My knowledge is from general transmission repair and operations. Maybe someone will be able to give you a more specific answer.

I how this helps. Let me know in comment section how it turns out.

Jay


Thanks for using FixYa!! I provide my answer for free as a public service - a 4 THUMBS rating and POSITIVE Comment is really appreciated for my FREE answering of your question.

LtCmdr Spock said: "An ancestor of mine maintained, that if you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."