2000 Land Rover Discovery - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

for Land Rover Discovery 1999-2004 no more external Fuel Filter serviceable anymore...it's a built-in part with the fuel pump. so if you want to change the filter then change the whole fuel PUMP.

Brake light switch is under the dash just above the brake pedal one connection small nut holds it in place

Easiest way is to find the manual on line, if you do not already have it, and pull the fuse for the alarm. That should disable it. Then next dealer visit you can have it reset and you'll be good to go.

Then whatever is passing by it is loose Flywheel or some type of timing wheel

Have to click twice for other doors, a weak battery will sometimes only allow a single click and the recovery time of the battery is longer than the time frame allowed for a double click.

check the rear lighting wire loom from rear of light clusters ,trace the earth wire to the body/chassis connection to ensure a good earth , check for power to the indicater lamp , the bulb holders may be the problem , this is a problem that requires patience as can be hard to trace

Check for burned out bulbs.

change the battery on the key fob..

is your oil literally burning or is your oil level just dropping? and what kind of car is it ?

Inserting the key in the ignition and turning it on can work sometimes, but do you not have a remote for the alarm? Check the battery in the actual remote if you do have one. the alarm sounds as if (by your description) it has a back up battery, if so, youll have to locate IT and disconnect it, and that should reset the alarm. Without details, its shots in the dark here. Learn your vehicle, and contact a dealer to speak with someone who Should know his product. If your attempting to steal the vehicle as we speak, then I suggest you just run. ;O)

start by checking the fuse and then the relay

Aside from building a garage or installing an engine block heater I have used this trick in the past on my 98 RR HSE. It may work for you if the starting issue is simply temperature related. Placing a shop-light or shielded work light underneath your block at night will produce just enough heat in many cases to overcome the slow starting problem. Other possibilities may be under powered/weak battery. The rovers are known for high cranking amp demand and a weak or mismatched battery could certainly cause this problem. On the outside chance that it may be fuel delivery related you might try priming your fuel injection prior to cranking. Do this by turning key to position 2 (or last position before crank) wait til all the bells and whistles stop usually about 3-5 seconds, and repeat a couple times. If this is helpful, the bad news is it may be indicative of mechanical issues on the horizon. ****SAFETY NOTE***** PAY ATTENTION TO LIGHT PLACEMENT MAKING SURE NOT TO PUT IT IN PATH OF OIL LEAKS. Hope this helps.

Most power windows use a single circuit breaker in the under dash fuse panel. And if yours does use a fuse, it will be only one for all windows. Should be in the under dash fuse panel. Do any of your windows work? If none work, most likely a broken power wire or ground wire in the little wiring harness going into the driver's door. Or if wiring is not broken there, could be a bad PW master switch on the driver's door.

broken seal around the signal housing. Use a little clear bathtub silicone to reseal. use hair dryer to dryout before resealing

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY II DONT HAVE FUEL FILTER, ONLY HAVE PRE FILTER IN THE FUEL PUMP

You have a problem with your gearbox. HTH

No it won't-- if you have a clogged gas filter,clogged worn out exhaustconverter,bad egr valve or ignition misifires

Exhaust from engine? Could you be more specific to the problem and its symptoms? Thanks.

Where is the Tinking coming from? If Wheel Area, Remove the Wheel Hub Cap and check for small Gravel,Also is this tinking sound only when making right or left turn? Could be C/V Axle.Need more information.

The intake valves(routed to the intake manifold/injectors/throttle body) usually have a tighter clearance specification than the exhaust valves(ruted to the exhaust manifolds/catalytic converters,etc).This is due to the exhaust valves running at a higher tempurature than the intake valves.The only engine I have had long enough to require adjustment of the valves is my 77 Plymouth Volare'(it has a Slant Six 225 with mechanical lifters).My father put about 95,000 miles on it without adjusting the valves.(supposed to be done about every 20,000 miles).My Barracuda was getting to the point of weekly repair,so I decided it was time for a complete teardown and a nut and bolt restoration(after 18 years,I'm finally painting it!)The Volare was cosmetically rough,but just needed some tune up stuff to get it running for daily use.I rebuilt the carb,and used the 5 gas analylizer in the shop to tune it to perfection(it took 4 hours to rebuild,I spent 5 hours adjusting it).It started and ran better,but I knew there was room for improvement.My next task on the list was to adjust the valves,mostly becuase of the noise(it sounded like an old Teletype machine!).I set the clearance at .010" on the intake,and .020" exhaust per the factory manual(my father was smart to buy the mechanical AND electrical manuals as part of the new car purchase deal!)The valve adjustment made such a positive difference that I had to adjust the carb again.The first trip after transferring the tags was to my parent's house.My father couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it ran! So,good for you for doing this maintainance.Engines require so little routine adjustment that it sometimes gets forgotten anymore.