20 Most Recent 2000 Land Rover Discovery - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There are two, one pre-cat, one post-cat! Both need a 22mm crowsfoot spanner, and care must be taken as they are easily damaged by dropping, excessive heat or contamination.

Well, remembering that the head bolts are stretch bolts, which you tighten to 20nm (15lbf.ft) then turn 90 degrees, then a further 90 degrees :)
The inlet manifold you initially tighten them to 10Nm (7lbf.ft), then it says for the gasket clamp bolts you do those to 18Nm (13lbf.ft) and finally to 51Nm (38lbf.ft)

Yep, there are lots of guides out there on eBay or similar, personally I like the one written by TD5Alive, but they're all mostly the same. It boils down to cutting a good bit of metal out of the existing structure of the front end, and then mounting the new light clusters & eyebrows.
Not 100% sure if I'd be happy doing it to mine TBH, it does seem a bit "bodgy". May just buy the front end off a crunched one (that still has a front end of course!) and use that...

The ignition barrels have been known to fail and this is usually the way they end up. Some graphite may help lubricate the lock, but odds are you'll need a new barrel and bolt kit.

1590 is not really an "ABS" code per se. It is an ODBII code for a rough road fault that the computer throws when you have an ABS code. You need to get it to a dealer (or someone with a T4, Testbook, Rovacom, Hawkeye, or Nanocom system) for the ABS codes to be read properly.
Odds are? Shuttle valve, Wheel sensor or Wheel Bearing.

Suggests either Wheel Bearing, ABS Sensor Fault, or Shuttle valve. Best to get it to a dealer and on the computer for them to diagnose what exactly is wrong.

Easy. Black triange at the top front of the door. Pry away gently and you'll see 3x10mm bolts. Undo these, and the mirror will come loose. Unplug the multi-plug and remove. Job done. Oh, may be some foam packed in there too. Just pull it out and put to one side and replace after.

The sensor can be faulty. It's about £25 to replace, or you can just disconnect it IIRC. Defender TD5's don't have it fitted!

Probably more likely to be oil in the injector loom. About £35 for the part and an hour or so to replace.
Easy way to check, get the ECU out from under the bonnet by the jack, unplug IIRC the red plug and see if there's oil oozing there. If there is, get some contact cleaner and clean that up, but odds are the upper loom has a failed o-ring. This can be replaced then cleaning the lower loom at the ecu a couple of times a week can clear the rest out negating the need for a engine loom replacement.

Hi this is a common problem with vehicles the age of yours its not a major problem its just a case of getting the starter motor replaced.

The clicking noise you hear is the selanoid on the starter moto not engaging properly.

Its best you change it sooner rather than later as you could find that it wont turn over at all.

If you are ever stuck anywhere and cant get the car to turn over then you can give the starter motor a couple of hard hits with a hammer or something hard this usually gets you out of trouble but get it changed as it would save all the stress of being broken down somewhere.

replace thermostat

yes. there is a small weep hole in the snout of the water pump. if you see the coolant coming from there, it's time to replace it. coolant could also be leaking out of the front cover seal. but that would be lower than the water pump. check it well.

there is a valve in one of your heater core lines in the engine bay that controls the flow of the hot engine coolant to the heater core and is controlled by the hot/cold selector on your dash by a cable. have someone watch the valve while you move the selector back and forth from hot to cold and make sure it's moving the arm on the valve.

before you remove any parts,find the timing mark and point it together to align

check ur thermostat its not opening to let heat pass through

for over heating it is not necessary always that head leakage is the problem, it could be radiator fan not working, first check this with technician, might be the fuse problem. don't worry.

sounds like when the pads where changed like maybe a wheel speed sensor was unplugged or damaged. return it to whomever did the repairs and let them find it. if it was you then you need to remove all the wheels and inspect for loose connections or broken wires,

Remember the head bolts are not reusable. They are stretched, not torqued. I can't post illustrations here but the pattern can be found at LR’s service website, www.landrovertechinfo.com (you can register for free). The bolts are tightened to a light torque of 15 foot pounds, then turned through two angles of 90 degrees each.

check the fuse, for the unit,first