20 Most Recent 1997 Land Rover Discovery - Page 7 Questions & Answers

It useually clip in with a plastic clip, if that is broken use a cable tie for emergancy only and replace as soon as possable,if the clip did not break, boil water put in a cup, warm up the clip (still attached to the arm) and clip it back on and let it cool down naturally

That starter you had installed is less than a year old and should be covered by Warranty. If you are able to return to the Tech. who did the first job and the tech supplied the starter, then the tech is liable to replace the starter under warranty and should do so willingly. If they refuse, then you could file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau or your local Chamber of commerce. If they refuse, your only other option is to have the new shop supply the NEW starter ( not remanufactured ) , making sure it has a warranty and that they will replace a faulty unit without charging you for the labor. If you are going to a new shop, I would also recommend doing some homework by calling the above listed organizations and checking for complaints against the new shop before you agree to the repairs.
Hope this helps and Thanks for using Fixya!!

Check your charging rate [should be 13 or 14 volts] sounds like a faulty alternator

the clutch may fell as if its working but its not right, its draging,,,,that whey you cant get the gears when the engine is running,,

Sounds like u got air in ur system or the fluid is very LOW!

Check the LEVEL of ur FLUiD, usually sounds coming from the pump siphones air when there are a LiTTLE fluid to siphone at!


Then tell me wut happened afterwards, so that i could advise wuts the next step would be.

You have to go to the dealer. Give them you id and registration to show the car is your. Then they will give you the code. Do not let them charge you. Its free. I just went through the same thing

Hi,

One of the main problems you have here is with your Coolant temperature sensor is reading a fault. This can cause poor starting and rough running. P0116 and P0118 together would tend to indicate the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input


Your O2 sensor is also reading a fault;

P0130 02 sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Usually the cause of P0130 is a bad oxygen sensor, however this isn't always the case. If your o2 sensors haven't been replaced and they are old, it's a good bet that the sensor is the problem. But, It could be caused by any of the following:

• Water or corrosion in the connector
• Loose terminals in the connector
• Wiring burnt on exhaust components
• Open or short in the wiring due to rubbing on engine components
• Holes in exhaust allowing unmetered oxygen into exhaust system
• Unmetered vacuum leak at the engine
• Bad o2 sensor
• Bad PCM

P0441Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer fuctioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses.

Whilst this code is set and needs to be looked at eventually it is not a priority in terms of the poor running or starting of the vehicle.

I would start by changing out the coolant temperature sensor as it is likely faulty and one of the main causes of poor running. Next you need to investigate the 02 sensor issue.

Hope this is of some help. Many thanks for using FixYa

Do you have new spark plugs as well? Have you replaced the cold start mechanism on the injector?

Sounds like a fuel pump issue for the hard starting. It forms an air bubble in the line when it sits because the back flush valve on the pump is not working correctly or is weak. It takes a few seconds for the pump to get fuel back into the fuel rails so it can start. This could be a small crack in the fuel lines that really doesn't leak but allows air in the lines or just a faulty valve. Check the fuel lines and if none are in need of replacement your next step would be to replace the fuel pump itself. I am not sure if this is Electric in the tank or mounted on the motor. If it is mechanical and mounted on the motor the fuel pump is the most likely cause of the problem.

same thing happen to mine i paid some idiot that said he knew what he was doing he took my door panel apart and mess around with the key lock stupid truck went into theft mode and now my fuel pump wont turn on i went every where and wrote on this stupid thing and no one has been able to help me out with this this model truck has 33 computers built in and now i have to pay for the diagnose to see which one went into theft mode if i were you i wouldn't mess around with it and take it straight to a dealership trust me you and up paying less then having some one work on it and messing it up more then what the true problem already is which is the "ALARM"

Hi, this is almost always caused by the Idle Control Valve (IAC), which is located near the firewall, on the passenger side, next to the throttle body. They sell for about $50. On generation 1 cars (1993 to 1997) these are very difficult to remove and install, but it can be done-or you could try to 'SEAFOAM" the intake by running a bottle in the gas tank and taking another bottle and run it through the intake by disconnecting the PVC hose while the engine is running, push the hose (it will **** the Seafoam into the intake) and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Two bottles will run you about $14. When you start it up, expect alot of smoke-it might even bring the volunteer fire company, but it is the carbon build up being cleaned out of the engine. The engine should be fully warmed up before you do this. After you do this, disconnect the positive battery cable for about 10 minutes-it allows the computer (ECU) to 'relearn' inputs from the various sensors like the IAC. I actually did this on two Generation One marks I have owned, and in both cases, it cured the problem. The high idle in drive and park is tough on the engine and murder (in drive) on the already fragile transmission, not to mention the brutal effect it has on U-joints when you shift into drive at high RPM's, so you want to get it fixed as soon as possible or park it until you can solve it.

The P0441 is one to be concerned about. And could possibly cause your problem. It is the Evap Purge Valve. You might want to replace it. It is on the driver side under the hood. I will paste a link of a picture so you will know what you are looking for. It costs around $90 or so.
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/297-01024935.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1999-2001+Land+Rover+Range+Rover+Purge+Valve+Bosch+99-01+Land+Rover+Purge+Valve+2000&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base

It is a possibility that the cylinder when it is cold is not igniting in the first attempt. The SE7 has a specification for premium unleaded fuel for best performance and hence it is advisable to use the same grade.
It will be good to see the intensity of the spark while the engine is cold. might need to see if the plugs are bad , have attained poor performance with age-- not mentioned the clocked mileage on the vehicle.
Check for the fuel pump, the fuel filter and the pump pressure.. check the calibration.
The other most important factor can be poor current on cold start because the drain of the battery when the starter is ON might be higher that would reduce the voltage to the coils thereby reducing the spark , until the cylinders warm up.
If after the engine starts up the performance is good then the tuning should be fine but the the splutter in the cold start is also an indication for poor feed of fuel or inconsistent electrics. a poor trigger to ignition coils.
Please check this link below for some more tips:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5843031-tips_check_car_not_start

Try heating the dowels with a torch. That might be just enough to loosen them

It is possible you burned an inline fuse, starter selonoid.

Do yu get power for the accessories? If so, check the power ging to the starter and work backwards to resolve. Hope you did not fry the Control Module, check all your fuses!

Behind right hand trim kick panel located on the top right hand side...

Check this picture also

Check the brake switch located above the brake pedal. It may be shorted or faulty. Check the wiring to make sure that it is not broken anywhere.

Black smoke is an indication of too much fuel being delivered and the engine is essentially "flloding" itself.
Most likely a mass air flow sensor or throttle body issue. Try cleaning the body first.
ps
White smoke is a head gasket
Blue smoke is piston rings.

You have the cheapest smoke issue to fix.

Press the station buttons if the code is 3 6 5, press 1 three times press 2 six times and so on when all the code is in press the next button this should bring on the radio.