Top 20 2001 Lincoln Town Car - Page 7 Questions & Answers

each window should have its own fuse, a short, or a bad motor are also possible

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the blower motor lead connector from the wiring harness connector.

Remove the blower motor cooling tube from the blower motor.

Remove the four retaining screws.

Turn the motor and the wheel assembly slightly to the right so that the bottom edge of the mounting plate follows the contour of the wheel well splash panel.

Lift up on the blower and remove it from the blower housing.

Installation the new blower motor by reversing the removal steps.

Connect the negative battery cable.

It's actually the meter recalculating distance. Keep in mind this is an estimate and not exact. This is constantly changes from driving habits to temperature changes. So don't rely heavily on the distance - it's just an estimate.

Continental And Mark VIII With The 4.6L Engine
WARNING
Do not allow the drive belt tensioner to
snap back as damage to the drive belt tensioner or personal injury could result.

1. Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise with a breaker bar installed in
   the 3?8
   inch square hole in the drive belt tensioner.
   
2. Lift the drive belt over the idler pulley flange and remove the drive belt.
   To install:
   
   
3. Following the schematic on the decal under the hood, position the belt over
   the pulleys, except the idler pulley.
   
4. Rotate the tensioner as described above and install the belt on the idler.
   Ensure that all the V-grooves make proper contact with the pulleys.

Town Car With The 4.6L Engine

1. Install a breaker bar in the 1?2 in. square hole in the automatic tensioner arm.
   
2. Rotate the tensioner away from the belt with the breaker bar.
   
3. Lift the old belt over the alternator pulley flange and remove it.
   To install:
   
   
4. Position the new belt over all the pulleys, except the alternator pulley,
   rotate the tensioner as described above and install the belt on the alternator
   pulley. Refer to the belt routing illustration on the sticker located at the
   front of the engine compartment. Ensure that all the V-grooves and all the ribs
   on the belt properly contact the grooves on the pulleys.
   
5. Rotate the tensioner toward the belt and remove the breaker bar.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 1: Make sure the belt makes proper contact with the pulley
   grooves
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 2: Accessory drive belt routing - 4.6L engine
   
   

Town Car And Mark VII With The 5.0L Engine

Given, if ALL FUSES are good, then there must be a relay somewhere... (or a fusible link, which ford's were known for, ugh). Also, if there are two batteries, usually there's an isolation device that's used between the two batteries. One of the batteries might be dead, which you can get tested easily, or if not, I would examine that isolation device closer.

the relay should be located in the fuse panel near the battery in the engine compartment

I will try to answer this at no charge. If you have no Fan, the blower motor resistor is probably bad. If you look under the hood and follow the blower wires back to a connection there will be 2 small bolts attaching it to the Firewall. About 90% of this part is concealed and it is about the size of a pack of cigarettes.

On some cars you will need to remove a heater hose before you get enough room to clear the engine. A good feature for this part is that you can switch the wires to this part and it will instantly fix your problems before you remove the old part. Remember the engine does need to warm up, AND the controls do need to call for heat. But the fan should work instantly if it is not turned off.

Now the Blower Resistor is expensive, even as a used part. The Climate Control in your car has a self-diagnostic which will help someone with the Codebook and the spare parts. You will not waste your money on buying a part you do not need. But some of the Diagnosis results in trial and error for the Technician, so he does need a supply of new parts.

Its your choice. If the fan is your complaint, now you know the part that will probably fix it. If you have other problems, let someone run the Diagnostic and be done with it.

here a what to do. open all the doors and the trunk and starting from the front passenger door shut them one at a time and it will reset the air bag system.

replace fuel pump and filter

You are suffering from *** drag syndrome. that means your rear end airbag suspension system is dead and the cost to repair it exceeds the value of the vehicle. When you see big or just expensive cars, BMW, Caddy, Land Rover, 5th Ave, Lincolns, etc with their rear ends a few inches off the road or banging on curbs you know they have it too. Those systems were designed to last 5 years which is when the original owner trades them and they get dumped at auction as the dealership will not want to sell them used to buyers who will come back complaining. So avoid them in the future. a canadian company called strutmasters makes kits to replace the whole mess, but buying and installing it is most likely more than you would want to spend on a 10 year old car.

You can get a 31 spline from hundreds of places around the U.S.
Give Jasper a call. 1-800-827-7455. www.jasperengines.com

Well Kenny, I will say this, I found you on the web pretty quick, but have not found a definite answer for you yet. I will say that I found something that may put you in the right direction. On the Fixya site there appears to be a possible answer for you.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t3458461-2001_lincoln_ls_heater_blows

I will continue to look for you.

Eric from Thayer Church

It may be the windshield wiper module instead of being the motor, since you have had that replaced 3x already. There should be no fuse issue.

THERE IS PAD UNDER THE SEAT CUSHION THAT NEED TO BE REPLACED YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE SEAT AND THEN THE CUSHION TO GET TO IT

check if fan works with wires hook to it but fan is out of housing maybe something is obstucking it or bearing are bad

you may have a smart key that communicates with the engine computer to signal it to give the electronids the OK to start.

Check in the Passenger Fuse Panel (page 182), position 23, 20AMP...



Hope helps with this (remember rated and comment this help).

Trans in N parking brake on. Mark the universal with white out to put it back in the same spot. Remove the driveshaft. Mark the pinion nut with the yoke. Remove the nut, tap out the yoke, replace the seal. Tighten the nut back to the mark.

I'm assumign that you are talking about the Air Susoension relay; if this its right, you need to check the Power Distribution Center (underhood) (page 163 and next)...



Fuse/Position 12, 30AMP (Maxi-Fuse)

Fod this and other details I suggest check your Lincoln-Town-Car-Owners-Manual

Hope helps (remember comments and rated this).

Hello, did you check the ground wiring for a bad contact?

I don´t see any other reason why the motor would not run if it works connected directly to the battery and you have 12 Volts supply at the multiplug .