20 Most Recent 2001 Lincoln LS - Page 2 Questions & Answers

if the belt is moving , the engine is turning over what you are trying to say is that it is cranking but not starting I would be checking wire connectors for the cam position sensors , injector wires and any other connection s around the area you have been working make sure that you have not caught a wire under a cover

Hey Chelsea, I would have the transmission fluid and filter changed and see what happens. If this does not fix it... time for a transmission repair shop trip.. find a QUALIFIED professional to do the work - THAT GUARANTEES THEIR WORK!!

I have a 2004 Lincoln LS with the 3.0 engine,bought used a couple of years ago,lost power,the hose that goes to the PVC valve broke at clamp in front,found a new hose from Ebay for 50 bucks,I fixed it.The guy that I bought it from had someone put new spark plugs in and they didn't put hose back on right and the valve cover gasket wasn't put on right which makes it leak oil now,plus the radiator is leaking at top on the left,so now I have to add anti freeze often till I can fix it,that's a common problem with our Lincolns.Open your hood,at the top right by windshield is your antifreeze over flow container,check,it's probably out,I use ZEREX G-O5 from Advance Auto parts.Open hood and look for antifreeze around and you will find the leak,mine is to the left side,down a little,but toward top of radiator.

it will fire but not start! ?????????? I assume from your post that when you turn the key to the start position the starter engages the flex plate and spins the engine , but does not start an run . This is a engine cranks but doesn't start an run condition . Crank no start ! Not it will fire and not start !!!!!!!!! What's missing ? spark , fuel , compression Videos on youtube showing how to test for these thing's . Search crank no start

The vehicle has one fuel pump and it is controlled by the rear electronic module . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter the vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on Engine , then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Then click the search button , then click the first blue link . The fourth diagram down . You will see fuel pump relay , rear control module , fuel pump module ! I would check the rear electronic module .

open the bannet it will be on driver side .

Overheating Due to corrosion block in Water Pump on Erratic engine coolant temperature or intermittent overheating can be caused by corrosion inside the water pump. ...Either condition reduces coolant circulation resulting in engine overheating.

Probably. The fuel pump is really easy to do on an LS. Just remove the rear seat and make sure to keep spark or heat sources away. DO THE FUEL FILTER too. don-ohio

What fuse ? Number an location , lincoln doesn not lable fuse's ,use's number > Fuel pump relay doesn't power fuel pump directly an the fuse does not either .The fuel pump is controlled by the rear electronic module . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop . Unless you know how to trouble shoot automotive electronic control modules . Check out wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing , how to use a wiring diagram , how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Copy of Voltage Drop Essentials TST Motor Age Without doing some testing guessing is all we would be doing . Your best bet may be to take to a qualified repair shop .

Lincoln LS has no blend door. You repair the DCCV down near the bottom of radiator. don-ohio

you have to reset your anti-theft by locking and unlocking your doors with either your door keypad or your remote

Under the dash on the heater box . Mite be able to see it from under the dash , or take the glove box out .

it could be a bad wire or connection to or from the relay ,or it could be a ground strap has rotted away. or it could be the starter itself not engaging when it recieve the signal to do so.. these things can be checked with the use of a voltmeter and a ohmmeter to check where the issue might be. (just get a cheap little multimeter if you dont already have. they are always useful) this might be easier if you have a friend to help you. first go over and look at all the ground straps (the woven metal straps or wires connecting the engine block to the chassis.. and the one between the negative battery terminal and chassis for corrosion damage or corroded connections. you can also check this by using a ohmmeter and measuring the resistance between the outside of the starter (you can probe any metal parts on the engine block. but doing it at the starter will reduce the chance for incorrect results) . and the negative battery connection. there should be a very low resistance. next you will need to use a voltmeter. connect the positive probe to the big terminal with the big cable on the starter. make sure not to short anything. and the other probe to ground. here it should always be almost the same voltage as the battery is (battery voltage varies a little, but around 12 v).check that the car is in park or neutral. handbrake should be on. then try cranking a few times until it fails to crank.. check to see if it has voltage (here is where a friend is helpful) if thats ok. then we move the positive probe to the small terminal on the starter . this terminal is where the starter gets its signal from the relay to engage and start cranking the engine. have a friend either turn the key or check to see if the voltmeter say 12v while its failing to crank. if it has 12 v but not engaging and cranking. then the issue lies with the starter unit itself. this is the most likely point of failure if it does not have 12 v at the small terminal of the starter you should probe to see if one the legs of the relay has 12 v.all the time. , just remove the relay to probe the contacts beneath. by looking at the relay you should be able to find out what leg is normally open (NO) . use the ohmmeter and connect from this leg to the small terminal on the starter (if you are unsure of what you are doing here it is reccomended to have a multimeter at voltage measuring to avoid damaging the multimeter by connecting it to the wrong connection. it will not survive it if you send 12 volt through the ohmmeter. and the voltage measuring will not allow enough current to accidentally make the starter crank) this wire should have a very low resistance.. if it does not. the wire or a connection has failed at either the starter end. or the relay end good luck with the repairs :)