20 Most Recent 2000 Lincoln Navigator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Possibly a bad Cop Ignition Coil on #1 CylinderFront Passenger Side CoilIf you replaced #1 & have the same code,put the old coilback in there & walk the new one to another cylinderTakes time,measured in days & the codes are not alwayscorrect on a fordIf you have a shop use their test equip, it may go quicker,but your odds of getting screwed over are about 80%,sowork on it yourself

Sounds like you need to check both you'r compressor and motor, that is what pumps the air into the system. You might also check to see if there any lose air lines, both from on top of the compressor and on top of all the solenoids.

cant you click on them to put low beams on ?

It's left of the throttle pedal.Are you talking about the parking brake?

you have a bad switch it is at the top of the emergency brake paddle .

Has the vehicle been run with anti-freeze its whole life? If not, then flush heater matrix.With vehicle in cold state, disconnect heater matrix feed and return pipes from within engin bay. Turn the vehicle's internal temperature setting to hot. If the vehicle is fitted with climate control, then do this with the ignition in the 'on' position.Take a garden hose and with low pressure first, try flushing the matrix. If the water pressure is not enough to flow through matrix at low to medium pressure, then a blockage is almost a certainty. If water does not flow at first, then try using a high pressure air-line to force air and any blockage material through the matrix and out of the exit pipe. You can also reverse the flow to blow or flush any dirt out of the other end.Once all is clean and free flowing, reconnect and fill entire system with a 50-50 anti freeze-water solution.If blockage cannot be resolved, then replace heater matrix. If no blockage is present then continue to check heater control switches and wires.

Answered That

Sounds like a loose wire somewhere... quite possibly condensed water has dripped onto a connector or the temperature sensor ( a diode) on the blower housing on Bosch/Valeo models, et al. The sensors can be replaced easy enough, if you see yours is rusty or burnt. Check also, if any accessories have been installed on the same circuit. If so, you will need to move them elsewhere. Typical A/C w/ heater units have a 40 amp fuse. Don't tie any other after market accessories into that circuit. Also check any RELAY that is connected to that circuit. They are not cheap, but much easier to just plug a new one in than tearing into everything to find a problem that you'll never find if it's bad relay. Also check all your GROUNDS and make sure they are clean (rust free). You have probably been told this, intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose. Good Luck

have to check if have fire on spark plugs.if no check timig belt, or inigtion coil

since the engine is overheated and died whilst in motion,surely you have either blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head and pistons marked the liners, In other words the engine might need recondition.

Someone will need to figure out if you are loosing spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors to proceed.

There is leak most likely in the bags themselves, have them pressure tested by a shop.

im a import guy ..im tell u its your battery post tht went b ad they cost 10 dollar ez fixs good luck

Cooling requires air-flow. You are probably hearing the fan doing it's job of pulling air through the cooling coils. If that explanation does not fit the sound you are hearing, you will need to be more specific about the sound, and more importantly, with the cost of A/C parts and repairs these days I would already have had the A/C looked at by a professional by the time you could read this reply.