2003 Jaguar S-Type - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You may need to disconnect the battery. After taking both cables off touch the negative cable to the positive post for approximately 13 seconds. This should pull any false memory from the computer.

K please apply the information i submitted...the car have a vacuum leak. ..and i recommend the induction housing....and then the pcv valve tubing on the left hand side its actually called a load plate..it looks like a flat plate...

MAF mass air flow sensor. Is the MIL light on, have you scanned for codes?

The buttons for the Front and Rear fog lights are to the left of the steering colume next to trip reset buttons.

see if your fuel OK and work

ABSOLUTLY NO IDEA TO BE HONEST ,if it says no phone then perhaps a phone isnt present and needs connecting in via a connection socket somewhere ,one tip i can give though is that if this car is an automatic version and thats to keep`the phone away from the gearchange in the centre consol as the phone emmisions will block out the autobox computer and it will not change gear ,from experiance i know this with more than one car of this model range .

Your S type Jag has a ZF transmission (it is German). There is no transmission drain plug that is easy to access for the do-it-yourselfer. Changing your fluid is a complicated process that involves bringing the new fluid up to operating temperature and pumping it into the transmission as you pump the old fluid out. It can be very dangerous, both to your car and to you, if you do not know exactly what you are doing. Again, research what is involved in this process. You won't believe how complicated it is until you do...This fluid is also very expensive.

The list could be endless. Check fuel line and also reset cut out in foot well in case this tripped when the car went off road.Also behind the front bodywork are some cables that often cause problems with corrosion - maybe these have been damaged? Next step is to hook up a reader and see whats really going on - Good luck - hope you get sorted.

check your resistors,fuses may work fine but if resistors are not then these faults may appear...also try a hard reset unplug the neg battery terminal for 30 minutes....then plug it back in...now make sure when you crank the car press the brake paddle and hold it then engage the park brake lever with your hand...then shift the car to drive then the brake module will reset properly...keep me posted

check the fuse and the relay ,, unplug the fan, and use a jumper to the battery to make sure the fan is working, if it is,, then its going to be a bad fuse or relay

Check your tachometer...........is the engine RPM appropriate,or is the ****** upshifting too early?
Are you using at least 91 octane? Have the spark plugs been replaced? don-ohio

bank one is the left side if your standing in front of the car and facing the hood...and bank one is always where the 1st cylinder is located....so bank two is located on right...if your standing in front of the car..if its superchraged the knock sensor is located on the plenum of the black and has to be tightened 24 nm of torque or 32lbs ft. you will have to remove the supercharger and the throttle body and egr vavle etc...to get to it.And if you have a natural aspirated engine the its also one the plenum of the block about half way don the engine...if you need a pic of the location let me know...

no fuse you have to inset the bukel in the locking device and it will stop

Hi, the dynamic stability control system is a safety feature, but the car will run fine without it. The problem is difficult to diagnose without special equipment. What I recommend is to have the system scanned the next time you visit the dealer service department. If you can send us the trouble code or results of the scan, we may be able to advise you on needed repairs to fully restore operation of your stability control system.

your thermostat is sticking and is causing the ecu to give a overheating code.Change it immediately...its located at the front of the engine inside the coolant piping that comes together like a y....It has 3 torque head screws holding it one...They sell the thermostat at autozone and discount auto parts...it may have a small copper insert with a bee bee inside it..just remove the copper piece and it will fit perfectly...temp range is 184-193 as specified by jaguar...Good luck and keep me posted.

Could be one of the following:
Physically look in the radiator under the cap for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.
Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.
Radiator clogged, have it boiled out, or replace.
Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it.
Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.
Fan shroud broken or missing....
Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.

Also, if the Jag has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

you will need to call the dealership and give them the last 6 digits of your vin and maybe proof of registration and they will give you the radio code..

this is your dynamic stability control fault...or the postive traction module ...this buttom is located on your j-shifter console beside the sport buttom...When its working properly you can engage or disengage the traction control at the touch of a bottom.You need to have the code read to pinpoint the issue...The CAN or control area network is sending a fault code do to something malfunctioning...please take it to autozone and have them to read the code for you...Hope this helps..

I can almost assure you its a rear wheel hub bearing.It will have to be replaced at a shop...Job will cost about 4-500.00 bucks..The s types are notorious for this.The bearing will usuall make the noise as you go into the corner turns and if you turn in the opposing side wheel the sound will go away until you go into a straight line.They will usual take a stethascope while the car is on the rack and place it in drive to pin point the bearing.Good luck..

its sounds like its between the oxygen sensor..and your throttle body sensor..Normally the difference between the oxygen sensor it will display all these things except the dsc mil.Make sure that you dont wash the engine caompartment near the firewall,this can lead to water getting into the TBS and cause the sensor to go bad,and also near the MAF in the air cleaner elbow.Water can short this sensor.But intermitant restricted performance can show do to a knock sensor malfunction also it will code p0327 or the oxygen sensor.Go by Antozone let them scan the car for codes and freeze frame data.The Actron obdii scanner does well with Jaguars.