2001 Jaguar S-Type - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I got similar problem on a 1998 XJ8 a few weeks ago. It turn out to be a dead auxiliary coolant pump. This is an electric pump that help pumping the hot coolant into the heater core when the engine is at low revs. The main engine coolant pump is not sufficient to provide enough coolant throughput to the heating system on some cars, so a auxiliary electric pump is required. If this is your problem, you might still get a little hot air when driving at high speed. If this is your problem and are a do-it-yourself, you can even save the price of a new pump by just replacing the auxiliary pump carbon brushes. They are most likely completely worned after 13 years of service. My brushes have a 4x4mm section, yours might be different. If you do not find exact size, carbon brushes can be cut and/or sanded to size.

if it wont open with the key that is a problem..usually those are mechanical locks..it may require removal of the back seat to inspect for a broken lock..

I have a 2001 Jaguar xj8L and I have to replace the thermostat . Do I just take out the three bolts from the front , pull out the thermostat and place it back in the same way the old one came out and then put back the three bolts?

I had the same problem with two of my cars (Chrysler Town & Country minivan & Ford F150 Pickup Truck). Instead of using 87 fuel I used 91 fuel and bingo the noise is gone.

Check the igniter module.
I assume you have a ecu code telling you #3 coil is missfiring ?
If so also check the crankshaft angle sensor .
If it is not an error code do a compression test and check the injector.
Hope this helps
Regards
George

could have poor ground wire use 12 volt test light check probe socket positive wire could be grey green wires and touch ground if test light works you have bad ground to license plate lights.and license plates lights have fuse control circuit.

most engine check lights are reset by using the fault code reader.

find it, replace the broken hose or snapped plastic ***, or intake manifold gasket or carby/throttle body gasket or whatever it is that's leaking

Failure to change your oil every 4,000 at most,takes out VVT ActuatorsWhen you do the guides you do the tensionersAgain no oil flow & gunked upYou can see the VVT on scan tool parameters & alsoshould mess with fuel trim dataIf you change the upstream O2 Sensors at 100,000,spark plugs every 3 years & clean the MAF you at leasthave a clean start, with the exception of the cam & chain issues

Is the gearbox in neutral or Park. If not then it won't turn over.

sounds like the code reader/dignostic equipment that has been used may have erased some or all of powertrain control module data.this did happen to me when the ids i was using became disconnected before it had finished clearing codes. had to recover the module by reprogramming as a new module only a jag dealer wil be able to do this has the complete car config.file has to reinstalled.

Throttle lever sensor box failure, i got the same problem, after changed, all are fine.

By removing the water pump obviously alot of water has drained out therefore you need to prime the air out of the complete water system at the radiator. The coolant leaking out is caused by the hot air rising to escape out the coolant bottle the only exit point.With the engine switched off, alocate a bleed screw on the top or on the side of the radiator and open that screw.Then keep pouring water into the coolant bottle until you see air escaping from the bleed screw.Once the air stops releasing and only water then spurts out, close the bleed screw. The system is now 95% primed. Start the engine and let her idle then open the bleed screw again, if only water spurts out for about 5 seconds then the system is completely primed. If there is still air coming out you can rev the engine a bit to circulate the water faster and then the system will bleed quicker(Not forgetting of course to top up the bottle replacing the lost water from bleeding) as soon as there is only water shooting out the bleeder, close the bleeder and top up the bottle to the maximum mark only. If ever you over top beyond the maximum mark just open the bleed screw to let out some water until it drops to the maximum mark and then close.The system is now fully bled. Problem solved.

the jaguar front wheel bearing comes complete with a abs sensor and bearing cover if someone has removed the cover it sounds like the air gap between sensor and the reluctor ring is to great or has someone renewed just bearing and not the hub unit like you are ment to do? have a good look at the rear of the bearing cover.

Have to remove the entire lamp assy from the bodyThen remove the screws, etc, from behind, for lampremoval

Dealer only job sorry

Hi,
The top radiator hose should connect to the thermostat housing, bolted onto your engine. Make sure you get a new gasket.
Hope this helps... Good luck!

Ask a local mechanic to have a look as on the V6 petrol models under the manifold are plastic breather pipes and these break with age causing the engine not to idle

that is where the oil sending unit is

sounds like you have a fuel problem