2001 Jaguar S-Type - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

On the left lower side of the drivers compartment by your left knee and the parking brake/ hood release you should see a little knob that controls how sensitive the car alarm is. If you turn it clockwise (right) it makes it more sensitive to the left (counter clockwise) less sensitive.Make it less sensitive so it won't cry. Hope this helps.

Use your ignition key to unlock the boot (trunk) by inserting it into a small keyhole under the chrome lift on trunk lid. It took me a while to figure it out when I first purchased my jag.

Sounds like you have a bad alternator. Basically, your using your cars battery for everything..lights, turn signals, etc but your alternator isn't recharging it.

That vehicle requires a twenty inch hose to if you try with that hose from an auto parts store your just gonna get take it to some one with the tools and training

Most likely the computer is dead. You may be able to source the computer at a junk yard. Replacement shouldn't be that difficult.

check the belts

fuel starvation or your auto choke isnt engaging pump the gas pedel a few times when starting get some fuel through the jets, have you been running the car on low fuel this brings up the sludge from the bottom of the tank and blocks the jets try some jet cleaner in your tank when its running this will clean out your jets and give you better acceleration and fuel economy

2 Possible causes. #1. - Blockage(s) in your cooling system. Over time/mileage, the antifreeze/coolant breaks down and actually becomes ineffective in it's purpose (cooling - antifreezing). Not only does it become ineffective, but can actually become a contaminant to the engine and important engine seals causing premature breakdown by building up blockages and flow inhibition points through the very small passages inside your engine and radiator. If your cooling system has not been flushed and serviced (leak check, flow test, etc.) every 60,000 miles, it is definitely time for it. Overall charge for this service is usually $85-$135 at most garages. At a dealer, - likely $200 minimum. It is a relatively simple procedure, just messy and time consuming, not to mention what to do with your old antifreeze/coolant - don't let it drain into streets as dogs love to drink and it is fatal for them to do so. I can step you through the process, just let me know. #2. - Water pump may be on it's way out. Your 2001 is roughly 13-14 yrs old = 150,000+ miles. That is about the time engine components start their breakdown process regardless of preventive maintenance performed. Usually a water pump will start to "weep" when it is ending it's life of service. There is a small weephole at the base that will drip coolant/antifreeze once the seal that covers the bearings starts giving out. The drip starts almost imperceptibly, steadily gaining in volume and frequency the longer it runs. If you happen to notice your cooling system needing to be topped off after a few days of running, or sometimes you can smell the coolant (sweet smell) while the motor is running, then this is a possible sign your pump is needing replacing - or you might just have a small leak above a hot area of the engine and the coolant is vaporizing when it comes into contact with this superheated area. Anyway, waiting for the water pump to actually fail is another option - prolonging the inevitable - but once it does, do not attempt to "limp" home unless you take several hours to get a few miles - drive 1, stop & cool for hour, drive 1, stop & cool for hour, etc. Don't entirely rely on your temp gauge/light to keep it from overheating. Temp gauges and/or sensors typically require the fluid to flow across the sensor before giving a reading/warning. When the water pump gives out, the flow is interrupted and the gauges/sensors can give false readings. If you decide to change your water pump yourself and need help, I recommend Haynes or Chilton manuals. Excellent resources for this type of job. (about $30). Good luck

Consult the owners manual for the layout of your fuse/relay box. Testing requires an ohm meter. There are many types of relays, and the exact specifics for your relay would only be in a jaguar repair manual. However, you can do some general tests. Watch this Youtube video on how to test relays. Good luck. Relays how they work and how to test with multimeter

First check that all electrical connections to/from your air conditioning components are tight and secure with no broken or chaffed wires and connectors, or oil swollen connection points. Then check that all fuses and relays involved in the operation of your air conditioning system are operational. If all is good, then remove the belt around the air conditioner compressor pulley. Get a wrench and try to turn the front of the compressor pulley. It should turn with little to no resistance. If it wont move or is very hard to turn, it is probably locked up and needs repair or replacement. If it moves, then the compressor part is OK, but your clutch would likely need replacement. Some model cars its cheaper to just replace the whole compressor than to rebuild the clutch. Jaguar sounds expensive - I would seek out a junk yard. Good luck.

more info. please. what engine is it? do you mean no fuel at the fuel rail pressure test valve? does the engine crank over? is the pats light on? little led on centre fascia. which fuses are not powered and in which fuse box? are there any fault codes in the system? the big problem with this model is corroded wiring around front behind bumper liner and front wheel arch liners.if the engine cranks ok you could have a faulty fuel pump not easy to test as it is pulse width driven,

Electrical Cooling fans not working

sounds like pump but may have air lock as you had the hose issue bleed the cooling system as per the workshop manual and see if that helps as a first step

wiper motor could be the problem as contacts are track type so can partly operate until turns to a dodgy track

check the engine crankcase breather for air leaks little rubber elbow rear of inlet manifold. plus oil separator under fuel rail

On the 2001 jaguar under the hood in that fuse box the no. 4 fuse is to the horn relay it is a blue 15 amp fuse if this is not the one inside parssenger comp. the no. 28 fuse is to the security system horn relay hope this will help you on my 2001 fuse box is on passenger side

What is the fault code in the transmission control modules memory, if the light is on the code must be read with a special scan tool through the vehicles diagnostic service port.

There is a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel manifold that sets the maximum pressure in the fuel manifold . It can be controlled by a vacuum line or be pre-set. Combined with a pressure sensor in the line that stops the pump operation when the pressure is reached.

Check to see if there is a broken/bare wire on your horn circuit. That would explain the battery drain and the horn not working if there is a short.

contact the jaguar car clubs for information on this car as the enthusiasts will be in the know