Top 20 2001 Jaguar S-Type - Page 5 Questions & Answers

That vehicle requires a twenty inch hose to if you try with that hose from an auto parts store your just gonna get take it to some one with the tools and training

wiper motor could be the problem as contacts are track type so can partly operate until turns to a dodgy track

What is the fault code in the transmission control modules memory, if the light is on the code must be read with a special scan tool through the vehicles diagnostic service port.

sounds like pump but may have air lock as you had the hose issue bleed the cooling system as per the workshop manual and see if that helps as a first step

Sounds like you have a bad alternator. Basically, your using your cars battery for everything..lights, turn signals, etc but your alternator isn't recharging it.

On the 2001 jaguar under the hood in that fuse box the no. 4 fuse is to the horn relay it is a blue 15 amp fuse if this is not the one inside parssenger comp. the no. 28 fuse is to the security system horn relay hope this will help you on my 2001 fuse box is on passenger side

2 Possible causes. #1. - Blockage(s) in your cooling system. Over time/mileage, the antifreeze/coolant breaks down and actually becomes ineffective in it's purpose (cooling - antifreezing). Not only does it become ineffective, but can actually become a contaminant to the engine and important engine seals causing premature breakdown by building up blockages and flow inhibition points through the very small passages inside your engine and radiator. If your cooling system has not been flushed and serviced (leak check, flow test, etc.) every 60,000 miles, it is definitely time for it. Overall charge for this service is usually $85-$135 at most garages. At a dealer, - likely $200 minimum. It is a relatively simple procedure, just messy and time consuming, not to mention what to do with your old antifreeze/coolant - don't let it drain into streets as dogs love to drink and it is fatal for them to do so. I can step you through the process, just let me know. #2. - Water pump may be on it's way out. Your 2001 is roughly 13-14 yrs old = 150,000+ miles. That is about the time engine components start their breakdown process regardless of preventive maintenance performed. Usually a water pump will start to "weep" when it is ending it's life of service. There is a small weephole at the base that will drip coolant/antifreeze once the seal that covers the bearings starts giving out. The drip starts almost imperceptibly, steadily gaining in volume and frequency the longer it runs. If you happen to notice your cooling system needing to be topped off after a few days of running, or sometimes you can smell the coolant (sweet smell) while the motor is running, then this is a possible sign your pump is needing replacing - or you might just have a small leak above a hot area of the engine and the coolant is vaporizing when it comes into contact with this superheated area. Anyway, waiting for the water pump to actually fail is another option - prolonging the inevitable - but once it does, do not attempt to "limp" home unless you take several hours to get a few miles - drive 1, stop & cool for hour, drive 1, stop & cool for hour, etc. Don't entirely rely on your temp gauge/light to keep it from overheating. Temp gauges and/or sensors typically require the fluid to flow across the sensor before giving a reading/warning. When the water pump gives out, the flow is interrupted and the gauges/sensors can give false readings. If you decide to change your water pump yourself and need help, I recommend Haynes or Chilton manuals. Excellent resources for this type of job. (about $30). Good luck

check the belts

Most likely the computer is dead. You may be able to source the computer at a junk yard. Replacement shouldn't be that difficult.

Electrical Cooling fans not working

check the engine crankcase breather for air leaks little rubber elbow rear of inlet manifold. plus oil separator under fuel rail

Check to see if there is a broken/bare wire on your horn circuit. That would explain the battery drain and the horn not working if there is a short.

There is a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel manifold that sets the maximum pressure in the fuel manifold . It can be controlled by a vacuum line or be pre-set. Combined with a pressure sensor in the line that stops the pump operation when the pressure is reached.

more info. please. what engine is it? do you mean no fuel at the fuel rail pressure test valve? does the engine crank over? is the pats light on? little led on centre fascia. which fuses are not powered and in which fuse box? are there any fault codes in the system? the big problem with this model is corroded wiring around front behind bumper liner and front wheel arch liners.if the engine cranks ok you could have a faulty fuel pump not easy to test as it is pulse width driven,

contact the jaguar car clubs for information on this car as the enthusiasts will be in the know

could have poor ground wire use 12 volt test light check probe socket positive wire could be grey green wires and touch ground if test light works you have bad ground to license plate lights.and license plates lights have fuse control circuit.

I got similar problem on a 1998 XJ8 a few weeks ago. It turn out to be a dead auxiliary coolant pump. This is an electric pump that help pumping the hot coolant into the heater core when the engine is at low revs. The main engine coolant pump is not sufficient to provide enough coolant throughput to the heating system on some cars, so a auxiliary electric pump is required. If this is your problem, you might still get a little hot air when driving at high speed. If this is your problem and are a do-it-yourself, you can even save the price of a new pump by just replacing the auxiliary pump carbon brushes. They are most likely completely worned after 13 years of service. My brushes have a 4x4mm section, yours might be different. If you do not find exact size, carbon brushes can be cut and/or sanded to size.

if it wont open with the key that is a problem..usually those are mechanical locks..it may require removal of the back seat to inspect for a broken lock..

most engine check lights are reset by using the fault code reader.

I had the same problem with two of my cars (Chrysler Town & Country minivan & Ford F150 Pickup Truck). Instead of using 87 fuel I used 91 fuel and bingo the noise is gone.