Top 20 1999 Jaguar XK8 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

check that the fuel filter cap is on correctly

Get a set of jumper cables. Positive side of the battery goes to the + side or red. and negative goes to - or black. Do the same on the other car. let it charge for awhile before attempting to start

If this engine has a serpentine belt, then chances are there is a bearing going out in the A/C compressor, idler tensioner, alternator, or other rotating item driven by the belt in the engine compartment.

If the belts are regular V belts, then add them to the list, including that they may be loose as well.

Wether it is an xk or xj, you cannot get to the trunk by removing the back seat, the gas tank is in the way.
Where the badge/decal is that says either XJ8 or XK8 there is a key hole in the badge so you can open the trunk.
The most common problem with the auto trunk opening is the actual harness in the right far corner of the trunk, the wires are not long enough and become stressed and eventually fracture causing an open circuit and no power to the remote opening.
Hope this helps
JPTCAT

The battery is either in your trunk or like the xj8 which is under the back seat, and yes you can jump start it when you locate the battery.
hope this helps
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check upper strut mount

Nope, it does sound like the serpentine belt broke.
All you need is a long 15mm wrench to replace it.
The belt from Jaguar is about $90.
It takes about 5 minutes to replace the belt.

this can be caused by a few things. Diagnostic Trouble codes needed to diagnose. many auto part store will read codes for free, please post codes

on the base of the antenna mast is a chrome nut (14mm?) unsrew that, then turn radio on , it will eject the guide cable. then insert the new cable, turn radio off and wait like 15sec then the motor will take in the new cable then put the chrome nut back on> thats it

Yes I have the same problem, the key won't come out of the ignition until the voltage drops to a certain level on the battery or it is unplugged, it will not start in park. Is there a relay that is affected by the loss of voltage that let's a servo go at the ignition allowing the key to be removed? I replaced the brake light switch thinking that was the case - you have to step on the brakes to remove the key.
I took out the plug on the top of the J Gate and put a screw driver there to move it to Nuetral and it starts.

If you disconnect the battery you must reprogram both windows by holding the button down until you hear it chime takes about 5 or so seconds. Repeat for the other window and this should solve the problem. This information should be in your owners manual, it is in mine

I have solved part of problem,, if you use the manual latch key and close the latch, you need to push the wrench all the way counter clockwise and the windows do go up. the latch mechanism has the activation switch in it..need to be fully closed

it sounds like the lift mechanism/regulator has worn out or siezed and needs replacing

Take a look at this video:

Having a restoration shop and running several newer Jaguars I have seen similar situations. Intermittent multiple errors such as these can be caused by a low battery (or corroded connections) that "fool the computers". Also had a '99 XJ8 VDP have exactly the same issues over several months. Issue was a manufacturing fault in the sensors on the throttle body that caused the "limp home" mode - usually in stop and go traffic. Jaguar had an inspection and recall on the throttle bodies but that vehicle had gone through 3 different Jaguar dealers for service and none looked at TSB/Recall or performed the necessary checks on the throttle body. Tried cleaning the throttle several times (per Jaguar TSBs) but no change. Had to replace throttle body & problem solved (over 30,000 miles since then). Recommend making sure all air connections to throttle are clean and open and cleaning the throttle area to see if that helps. On newer Jaguars (and other Al bodied cars) similar problems occur when the "ground" connections to the body become poor (usually through corrosion but sometimes through collisions). Connections may look perfectly normal but have high resistance. Careful when working with the connections - the posts are usually very loosely fastened to the bodies. Good luck.

you may try adding a engine oil flush follow the instructions on the container if the lifter is blocked that may help but that engine at that model/year suffered with worn nicosyl coated liners which made the engine poor starting/noisy unless it has been reworked with cast liners

the electronic part of the unit ie. module is seperate from the pump unit and can be interchanged someone may have put a module from a different unit on to your pump motor unit ie, from a xkr which as a differant connector

Is it the PSI specs good {30PSI?} If not u have to start w checking 4 vacuum leaks, oxygen sensors, get emissions test to get all other emissions read (HC, NOX, CO) All the readings will give the tech a path. U have to have the right amt of fuel going into the pump & regulator to get the right PSI too. Clogged exhaust? The possibilities go on. Good Luck

Could at either plug(corrosion) Most wires break close to the plug, Check voltage a couple inches back. Unplug it(if you haven't already) check it. If you have voltage at the brake switch and a couple inches back(probe the wire) nothing at the Shifter solenoid. I would run a new wire to it. Way easier than removing the console and dash to find the short. If you have other problem, I would be looking at the fuse panel .

Possible bad wire in motor so it opens up and stops motor after heating.