Top 20 1999 Jaguar XK8 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

the diagram itself should be either under the hood or on the core support at the front or side of the radiator ....did you also check your service Manuel

Try Electrical contact cleaner ( I get mine at Radio Shack) on the switch sometime they get dirty and stop working. Its the first thing I try it works on power switches windows, seats locks ect.

This code is an indication that the transmission has excessive slippage, the code is for the input and output turbine speed sensors, based on what i know of this problem the trans has a mechanical problem, that would be low fluid pressure or worn out forward clutches, make sure the trans fluid is not low, if it is ok you will need to have the trans torn down for inspection..

the transmission gets cooled off with the radiator if transmission oil is getting in your radiator then the tank that is inside the radiator is cracked you need to replace it or the whole radiator and flush out the engine to get out all the trans. fluid out of the cooling system I hope this information is useful good luck

P1647 Linear O2 Sensor Control Chip (Bank 2)
P1646 Linear O2 Sensor Control Chip (Bank 1)
U have a lean engine air/fuel mixture for unknown reasons, check for vacuum leaks.

It could be caused by two things, engine or transmission issues. If you have also problem with idling, I suggest to look at the engine first. Check if there is inconsistent fuel mixture. You may have a problem with your MAP sensor (the device that measures the air at the intake), issue withe the TPS or a problem with the fuel injection. You may also check your spark plugs if it is soaked with fuel to see if the fuel mixture is incorrect. Check also the vacuum hoses if they are loose or has leak.

The transmission can be trickier since most of the parts are inside. Check first the transmission fluid for dirt or debris and have the filter and fluid replaced should there be any. Inspect also if the fluid level is correct. There may also be some debris or dirt on the valves for each gear inside the transmission. Most especially if this happens only on D and not in reverse. Have the solenoid inspected if it needs cleaning or replacing.

This problem is due to the malfunction of the computer fitted in the car. You better reset the computer simply by pulling out the battery terminal cables for at least 10 hours and in the mean time clean all the sensors related to the stability systems like wheel etc. Then re fix the battery terminals cables and enjoy your drive.

sounds like a bad battery connection... ck cables at battery...

The DTC code P1647 indicates that there is a issue with the O2 sensor bank 2 upstream. What caused the code could be a heater failure to the O2, Sensing circuit failure (Short circuit to ground, short circuit to hight voltage, or open circuit). Last would be ECM failure but that's rare. The Bank 2 is the radiator side, check the wire harness to the O2, The harness to both upstream and downstream O2 sensor are connected to a bracket in front and below the battery. Look for corrosion and follow the harness for any breaks that would cause a short in the system. Also check the fuse to the O2 sensor heaters, not sure which fuse it is but check all the fuses in the fuse box under the hood. If everything is ok then most likely the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. Good luck and hope this helps.

It just needs resetting.Hold each window switch down until you hear a click at the top and then go down all the way and hold until it clicks at the bottom of its travel.A low battery will cause this sometimes or a  battery change.Tony/Hills Motors, San Mateo, CA

This is a view of the correct belt routing ..

maybe you should check the electricity of you machine.... the wire you use is not compatible.. or the the motor was to high voltage compare the last you used.

This specific set of problems took three months to resolve by ordering and patiently waiting for everything from chains to piston rings.  However, there are two other problems that I might seek your guidance with.  
1.  I have a periodic Steering Control Failed light with an ABS light. This is often resolved by balancing all tire pressures (as little as 5 psid seems to kick it off).  My concern is that there might be a larger problem in the ABS pump, since the symptoms and resolution are still somewhat inconsistent.
2.  Since the engine rebuild, I have experienced a Coolant Low Light (4x's in 5 months), with no corresponding rise in Temperature.  However the problem is becoming more frequent.  The servicing level is consistently good.  I haven't needed to add anything.
Any suggestions?

it is usually the solenoid at fault.when the solenoid has no power, the part that it is supposed to move will also have no power.

The retractor may just be jammed -- if so this can be fixed. If it's broken, it needs to be replaced.

your brake switch, the one that activates rear brake lights has probably failed. Press brakes, have someone see if brake lights turn on, if no then it is a brake light switch problem.

I had a similar problem on my car. It turns out that somewhere in my electrical lines the power to my fuel pump corroded. I had to jump power from another key-on fuse to power my fuel pump, because it would have been a real headache to find the problem wire. Have you tried a test light to see if you really don't have power to your fuel pump? Have you even replaced the fuel pump? Your pump might be froze up.If thats the case you will need a new one. I hope this helps. 

I am no mechanic but on most cars it may indicate poor connections on batery or solonoid or starter.

this is most often caused by a slightly low charge of refridgerent, as the engine heats the system the gas expands and the light goes out.

Sounds like the solenoid in the starter is not engaging fully. Is the starter making a nasty whirring sound? That could either be a fault in the starter which can be resolved with reconditioning (much cheaper than a new one) or an alternator to battery problem that is preventing enough current getting to the starter. The latter usually just allows the starter to 'click' but not turn, however with your recent problems you may wish to try and jump start the car from another vehicle and then check the votage going across your battery is at 13v to 14v. making sure the other car is no longer connected to yours first so you know what your alternator is producing. Be surprised if it isn't a problem in your starter to be honest.