Top 10 1998 Jaguar XJ8L Questions & Answers

Hi j the tank would have to be removed as there is a filter on the pump and dirt will be in there two D

Your car does not have plug leads so that will save you a job,the spark plugs are fairly easy to do tho.
Open the bonnet,either side of the engine at the top there are 2 black covers bolted to the top of your engine,bolted to those are 2 smaller covers,remove the 2 smaller covers which will reveal your ignition coils,remove the ciols and your spark plugs are there.
You will have to remove the air filter assembly tho on the right hand side which is easy enough,remove the bolts from pipe at the rear middle of engine,undo the clips which houses the filter and disconnect the engine breather pipe.Re assemble in reverse order,
N.B the spark plugs dont want tightening too tight..or too loose,when the plug nips up just give it a little nip again..GOOD LUCK

More than likely the door handle assembly is broken. The chrome handle has a pin running through it and through 2 "ears" of a plastic part that creats a pivit point for the handle. One of the plastic ears (probably the bottom one) has broken loose. Glueing it will not hold long if at all. The accepted repair is to replace the handle assembly which consists of a Plastic mounting block of which the "ears" are part, a chrome handle, and a pivot pin. You can buy this assembly used on Ebay at this time (August 2010) for between fifty and seventy dollars including shipping, but you are buying a seven to twelve year old part out of a junked car with the same inherrent weakness as your broken one had. How long the part will last is anyone's guess. My guess is "not long". You can buy a new one that will probably last as long as the original one did, or you can repair the part by fabricating a metal replacement "ear" and attaching it to the Plastic part with very small screws or nuts and bolts as I did. To perform either repair you must remove the inside door panel. In the plastic handle recess there is a small circular plug that can be removed with a thin pointed tool. It reveals a phillips screw that must be removed. Remove the plastic recess part. There is another long screw on the underside of the armrest/handle. With these removed there a number of male to female plastic plugs that can be seperated with a dedicated tool or a flat tool like a common screw driver. Insert tool between the door trim panel and the door at each plug and pry the panel from the door a half inch or so. With all the plugs seperated wiggle and carefully lift the panel over the verticle locking stud because there are 3 wires that must be un plugged. After unpluging the wires, put the panel aside in a safe place. The handle assembly is removed by sliding it toward the front of the car and then removing the cable. Repair or replace the assembly and reassemble in reverse order. Good luck.

Most likely the lock out switch at the brake pedal is at fault, because in order to put it in in to any gear you have to step on the brake first ! Their is a switch located which prevents you put it in gear with out stepping on the brake pedal, so check this switch first.

this may sound crazy but what sort of fuel are you running? Try filling the car with premium 98 octane and run it - if you are running inferior grade or dirty fuel the throttle body sensors will register a differential in the burn/energy and throw a fault. The bad news is that a faulty throttle body will cause the same problem and cost a fortune to replace.

Hello! Fail safe mode is when the vehicle's computer detects a serious problem an allows you to "limp" off the road or highway safely.

Fail safe mode on a Jaguar is mainly caused by a dirty and gummed up throttle body. The throttle body on your auto has a protective coating, so you can not use just any cleaner. It requires a throttle body cleaner that states "safe to use with a protective coating". The butterfly valve in the throttle body will actually "stick out". This causes fail safe mode to kick in reducing the amount of power your engine can produce.

Also check the plugs on your ECM (computer) and make sure they are all seated properly.


Guru...............saailer


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abs modules work very hard. by the age of your car it seems that the abs module is packing up. the abs system has sensors on all four wheels that figures out braking, stability and control of the car when cornering. these do brake down over time and is part of the wear and tear side of things. you don't need to buy a new one. they do overhaul these things for much cheaper. your car magazines should advertize the fixing of these things or contact a scrapyard for a secondahand one. check if the abs sensors are not faulty and replace them. do not go to the agents, they will rip you off. good luck

V6 is 1,2,3 on the right and 4,5,6 on the left....Firing order is 1,4,2,5,3,6


V8 is 1,2,3,4, on the right and 5,6,7,8, on the left.....Firing order is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8
Jaguar labels this as 1A,2A,3A,4A on the right and 1B,2B,3B,4B on the left and the firing order is 1A,1B,4A,2A,2B,3A,3B,4B

There is no fill tube on either the 5HP24 (1996-2002) or 6HP26 (2003-2006) transmissions. They are both "sealed for death". By changing your transmission fluid you will prolong the life of the transmission. Jaguar only offered a 50,000 mile warranty, so they stand to benefit if your transmission conks out at 90,000 miles. The car has to be up on a lift (or at least on 4 tall jack stands) to check the fluid level or to add more fluid. Plus, the engine has to be running. You check the fluid level from the fill plug, and the plug is right next to the exhaust pipe which gets very hot. If you turn off the engine during the procedure, about 5 liters of fluid will drain out of the fill plug. Here's a video which shows the process for changing the fluid and pan on a 2003 transmission. The procedure is essentially the same for the 2002 and earlier cars, but there are some slight differences in the transmission internally.