2004 Infiniti QX4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The two main reasons are here. https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+FX35+Infiniti.+The+Speedometer+quit+working The most common reasons an INFINITI FX35 speedometer isn't working are the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), a faulty speedometer, or an electrical issue. ..

I had the same problem with my 2001 Infiniti QX 4. A common problem with the with these cars is the rear sway bar bushings go out causing it. To do that I would suggest just replacing the sway bars entirely cuz it's easier than replacing the bushings because the new sway bars come with new bushings that way you don't have to press out the old ones and press in the new ones

First off, make sure that the gas cap is tightened beyond three clicks. If it is and has been then there are many things that could be causing the light to come on. But let me start by assuring you that it is not something that requires immediate attention. The sole purpose of the service engine light is to detect malfunctions of emissions related components. If the gas cap isn't tight, the computer system detects an incorrect amount of pressure inside the tank due to vapor leaking out of the filler neck. If the cap is tightened after a period of time the computer detects the right pressure and the light will go off. However, on QX4's the most common cause of the light is oxygen sensors, or cam and crank position sensors, and finally intake valve timing control sensors or solenoids. O2 sensors measure the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. Normally I have seen that in damp and wet conditions these sensors are more likely to intermittenly give false readings. That being said, although the SES light is not an emergency situation, it will need to be addressed at some point, as the Engine control module takes the readings from these various sensors and automatically adjusts things like idle control, and air fuel mixture ratio, and eventually will to some point affect the performance of the vehicle. I have seen folks drive 100K miles with a service engine light on, so if you don't want to spend a 200 or so dollars right away, I would take the car to autozone, have the codes retrieved, and report back to this forum, at that point I would be able to advise you a little further. But more than likely you could continue driving the car without any driveablility issues.

Sounds like a air flow problem caused by a reaction from the cooling system warming up. Best bet have it scanned by a shop & sensors & emissions checked. good luck

check the plug clean connections maybe wiggle wires to make problem reacure my mitsubitshi does same thing its a bad connection If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lee_9bf2e1a3cef596dc

Idle air control valve may be getting stuck shut. Remove it and clean it as well as the throttle body idle air passages with carb cleaner.

No more than othe r cars thy all wear out and it depends on how you drive and what where and how.

Crankshaft and or camshaft position sensors are marginal. If they go out, you won't runs at all.

It's positioned near the left side of the crankshaft pulley at the front of the engine. If you slide under the front bumper you can see it and remove it from there

IT LOST THE SINGAL TO THE SENSOR SO IT CAN NOT REPORT THE TEMP OR SHARE INFO THE ECM,

It is on the outside of the transmission.

you will need to have the light put out thats all ,try holding the trip meter switch down then turn ignition on and holding the switch in see what happens .

The knock sensor is famous for causing all sorts of trouble If you have a code for it, it probably needs to be replaced. It could be a faulty sensor, valve or blockage in the EGR (tube) from a carbon buildup.in some cases it may be a problem with the ecu

You will literally have to take a rubber mallet and beat on them all the way around until they work themselves loose enough to remove them by hand. You won't damage them as long as you use a rubber mallet.

You need to check: MAF mass air flow sensor, Fuel pressure and Catlic converter.

It sounds like you most likely have a defective HID control unit for your right headlamp. Your headlamps are computer controlled. The BEST way to diagnose problems with them is to scan your computer system for fault codes. - or you could just pay the BIG bucks for an HID control unit and cross your fingers.

From what I can see, the HID unit is only serviced as a complete composit lamp assembly. At least that is all that is offered to the aftermarket. You REALLY need to check with the dealer to verify this!

The lamp assembly has a manufacturer's suggested retail price of $1374.83 (US)

does it move at all?

Check the hood pin switch for the alarm, you could of pushed it down a bit when installing the battery so that when the hood is closed it barely opens the switch. Any amount of moisture will make it have contact...also, check the door switch in the door jam. one of them could be bad. if you walk around the car and push on each door individually, you might be able to manipulate it into messing with the alarm or door ajar light. Or just open the door and press it with your finger and see if you find the bad one---I hope this helps.

They changed the radiator and then told you need the engine overhauled? That tells me you don't want to deal with them! Any shop should have tested things out not just arbitraly start replacing parts. So unless your vehicle is still under warranty, then I would take it somewhere else to have them work on it.

Since I am not there to check out your vehicle, this is a WAG on what is going on with your engine.

Since you started off with misfiring - that could be a sign that your spark plugs are being fouled by oil or a few more things. But not usually an indication of a cracked block at least at that point.

But then you add the overheating into the equation - depending on how fast it overheats - right away (a couple of blocks driving) could mean either a blown head gasket or a cracked block but slowly could mean low coolant; radiator blockage, and so many more things.

If your engine was misfiring, you should have gotten an error code from your computer, which if acted on right away could have been a much cheaper fix. Now with what should like either a blown head gasket or maybe even a chrack block you are talking major work and dollars!

Hi
this could be a number of things.
The switch has a built up a bit of resistance due to being used a lot.
A tired lifter motor for glass.
Or the drive cable getting old.
The other thing is its the window channel itself is dirty and giving a lot of resistance. (spray the grove both sides with some silicon oil (no other type) and make window go up and down a few times.

--

Please dont forget to vote if you liked my answer

thanks

------