20 Most Recent 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Check all your fuses in fuse box and your fusible link,may have burnt one up.Never turn anything think on while jumping,will cause a power surge.

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit. Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet) 1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on. 2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on 3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5 4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car! 5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on 6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8 7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya! 8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem! List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

I will post my article titled "My starter won't crank my engine"...... If it does not fix your problem, then the very last thing it would be, is the catalytic converter is clogged creating extreme backpressure, which will cause your engine to stall, but start back after the backpressure releases, which can be a few hours depending on the clog. READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit. Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet) 1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on. 2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on 3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5 4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car! 5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on 6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8 7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya! 8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem! List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

Watch and listen as you turn the switch. Do the dash lites change the same each time? Do you hear a click, which would be the start relay? If these changes and noises don't always happen the same, the ignition switch is wearing out.

double posted. adjust what, type out what you did and expected and what didnt work. 1: I cant turn key ,its locked. 2: i turn key to Ignition1 pos. and get no CEL ,brake and charge light, Fuse blown 3: turn key to CRANK, and the engine starter is dead, no crank 4: the steering wheel is locked, or wont lock. 5: i cant extract the key or put it in. pick one or add one.?

no year,? it does lots of things, name just 1. one is, locks steering.

If the timing belt is shot, it will soon quit starting at all. It will miss really bad and sound like it's running on one or two cylinders instead of all four. However, if it's a vacuum advance distributor, the hose may be lose. Look for a connection to either wires or a vacuum {rubber line} hose off the side of the distributor. That is where to start tracking down th problem usually. Or you could have a bad rotor, and they are thankfully very cheap to replace too. Look that distributor all over really well.

Crank position sensor

1. Loosen all of the front/rear wheel lug nuts 1 / 2 turn.
   
2. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Remove the wheels.

1. If equipped with 4WD and automatic locking hubs, perform the following:

1. Unscrew the automatic hub cover and remove the cover and O-ring.
2. Remove the hub assembly mounting bolts and remove the hub assembly.

1. If equipped with 4WD and manual locking hubs, perform the following:

1. Remove the six manual hub cover mounting bolts and remove he manual hub cover and gasket.
2. Remove the six manual hub mounting bolts.
3. Remove the manual hub and O-ring.

Fig. Fig. 8: To remove the wheel hub and bearings, first remove the bearing lock plate which is secured by four screws .

1. Remove the caliper mounting bracket and position the caliper out of the way. Support the caliper.
2. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub. Remove the front wheel bearing lockplate screws, lockplate and washer.
3. Remove the wheel bearing locknut and washer, then remove the wheel hub complete with bearings and seals.

Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the wheel bearing locknut and washer using the special tool shown .
If wheel hub cannot be removed by hand, use special tool J3781 with a J2619-01 for the Tracker or 0999-1511 with 09930-30102 for the Sidekick, Sidekick Sport and X-90 models, or their equivalents. These tools are a hub remover and sliding hammer.

Fig. Fig. 10: A slide hammer may be necessary to remove the assembly from the spindle .

1. If equipped with ABS brakes, remove the sensor rotor from the wheel hub.

Pull out the sensor rotor from the wheel hub gradually and evenly. Pulling it out partially may cause it to deform.

Fig. Fig. 11: Cross-sectional view of the front wheel hub and bearing assembly .

1. Remove the inner bearing grease seal.

Fig. Fig. 12: To remove the bearing from the hub, remove the snapring and rear oil seal ...

Fig. Fig. 13: ... then press the bearing assembly out of the wheel hub .

1. Remove the snapring and remove the inner bearing.
2. Clean and inspect the hub and bearing seats.

To install:

1. Install the inner race, wheel bearing snapring and seal in the hub. Apply lithium grease to the lip portion of the oil seal.

Fig. Fig. 14: Press the new bearing into the wheel hub until it contacts the stepped surface of the hub .

1. If equipped with ABS brakes, install the sensor rotor.
2. Install the hub on the spindle and install the outer bearing, locknut, washer, and lockplate. Tighten the locknut to 123-180 ft. lbs. (170-216 Nm).

Fig. Fig. 15: Drive in the two wheel hub oil seals. If the tool shown is not available, you may need to install the seals one at a time .

Fig. Fig. 16: Apply lithium grease to the wheel hub seals as shown .

1. Install the four lockplate mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 8.8-17.7 inch lbs. (1-2 Nm).
   
2. Install the brake rotor.
3. Install the caliper and tighten the bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
4. If equipped with 2WD, install the locking hub cap.

1. If equipped with 4WD and automatic locking hubs, perform the following:

1. Install a new O-ring on the hub assembly.
2. Install the hub assembly onto the wheel flange. Make sure the tab on the hub fits into the notch on the spindle.
3. Install the six mounting bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
4. Install a new O-ring on the hub cover.
5. Install the hub cover.

1. If equipped with 4WD and manual locking hubs, complete the following sub-steps:
   
   1. Install a new O-ring on the manual hub body.
   2. Install the manual hub onto the wheel flange and install the six mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   3. Install a new gasket on the manual hub cover.
   4. Install the hub cover on the hub. The lever must be in the FREE position with the clutch pulled out toward the cover.
   5. Install the six mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
   6. 
      
   7. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.
   TIMKIN/WHEEL BEARING-FRONT,NOTES; INNER BEARING,2 REQUIRED,PART#517009 FOR 50.99 AT AUTOZONE.

most probable cause is head gasket or if really high miles burnt valve or piston rings worn hope this helps

Is the vehicle a diesel? If so the diesel fuel may be waxing up - particularly if the outside temperature is below freezing?

that tranny? the 5sp has a custom tranny for 4wdwe have the list of changes, it huge.old question answer 1000 of times.but this one is good.way batter is get a 4wd. a jeep is better.

cruise is an option most dont have.who made,it , ah misbishi or hitachi ,its marked.http://www.fixkick.com/look/95/cruise.jpgalldata dot com has the full story.

can , the better word is should you, or better yet HOW?the op guide is clear.but you failed to say?flat towed,front or reardolly or not>? its in the book and here.I cam make this simple that A/T rear coupling must not spintowed.http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/xfr-case/transfer-case.htmland faq pagehttp://www.fixkick.com/FAQ/FAQ.HTMLthe the transmission rear bearing can burn up easy.how long or far, well that depends on heat and distance.age of part, and oil type. and if damaged before.The bearing has no lubrication, only the remainder from the lastlegal usages (engine power)case in pointspit on hands then rub them together, see no heat,spit drys and it overheats and hurts. there is your perfect answer. you must start the engine to get new spit.dig.?

alldata.comits all there. for $15or the FSM.1:drain it. (not easy)2: all hoses and wires off3: drop clamps.its out. all cars.the fsm is on line, you can read the long words and steps.?here section 6Cpage 6C7 fuel pump replacement , would do that.http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.htmbtw, the tank main filler has a no upside down check valveand by its nature prevents siphoning out gas, like the hill folks did.step 3 removes this check valve.

What about it? What is the year?