20 Most Recent 1994 Geo Metro Questions & Answers

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The fuel filter is located below the master cylinder on the firewall

You want a simple answer but there is not one. The ECU looks at many things to determine what (if any) pulse is proper. Any sensor which sends no information or info outside of normal limits can prevent pulse. No info from crank/cam sensor is common issue, Bad EFI fuse or relay can do this. Bad ECU ground or other ground (Fuel rail) can do this. Many sensors can be tested with ohm meter.

wont go to high idle this is the IAC failing not TPS, the tps only signals to the ECU that you are at idle.

Sounds like a major internal problem.

Unfortunately, both of these items are equally important and repairs can't normally be avoided by taking care of your car.

Your MAP (Mass Air Pressure) Sensor measures intake manifold vacuum pressure to help control the air and fuel mixture and timing. It contains a pressure-sensitive element that connects to an electronic circuit, generating a signal that changes with pressure changes in the manifold.

Your EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve recirculates exhaust gases through the intake manifold to be burned again, cooling peak combustion temperature. Dilutes the air and fuel mixture to keep the nitrogen oxide emissions within breathable limits. And yes, it could very well be that the EGR solenoid that is causing the issue.

Both units effect your vehicle's fuel/air mixture. This is important because your vehicle running lean/rich can cause "snowball" problems. For example, a faulty EGR can cause the vehicle to run rich/lean. If not repaired, in time, the exhaust caused by the wrong rich/lean fuel mixture can damage the O2 sensors and/or catalytic converter.

If I had to pick, I'd start with your MAP Sensor. One guess I would have is that your MAP Sensor failed and made your vehicle start burning the wrong fuel/air mixture. Assuming I'm right, this could have damaged the EGR Valve. So, I see no reason to replace the EGR Valve alone, just so it too can be damaged by the poor fuel/air mixture caused by the still-faulty MAP Sensor. If your lucky, you may see the faulty EGR code disappear once your MAP Sensor is replaced.

Hope this helps and good luck!

There is a transmission controller that is located under the dash beside the right hand side of the steering column. It is held on to a bracket by two 10mm bolts. A change in that transmission control computer will make the transmission shift like new

I have read your problem and you can easily get the solution of your problem at the given link toolsnyou.com they provide the service manuals.Do visit it once. http://toolsnyou.com/

I think you have a mechanical issue with the transmission and it will need to be rebuilt.

Yes, correct. There is only the cam sensor in the distributor for the ecm's cam/crank reference signal. Many factors are figured in for pulse width, getting the air/fuel mixture correct. Have you checked the ground for the ecm? The CEL does work? Too odd that both computers had no injector ground control, you must have missed something. Use an ohmmeter when you checked for continuity on the injector ground wire?

1)Throttle body butterfly stuck or gummed up. 2) Idle control valve gummed up or electrically inop.. Spray cleaners will solve the problem unless it's electrical .

Check your coolant level, you may have a head gasket leak sending coolant through the cylinders causing the "smoke".

If the shift lever is what is hard & sticky, get some grease & lube the handle at the joint at the trans. ( Maint. anyway) . The right gear oil? Was it doing it before the oil chg ? How's the clutch feel? Clutch, Pressure plate & throw out bearing poss. Smell any burning smells? One step at a time. Good luck

no man on earth can answer, because we can't look either. only looking at real damage works. damage or wear really have no limits in the physical world. we examine it carefully to see what is wrong, and then replace parts that are beyond repair.

no photos, and we are to guess failures in the physical world?

The PCM (ECU does that) its part of what is called EFI, electronic fuel injection, it's a computer, that gets inputs, and uses those inputs to injector perfectly at ALL times. what engine? 3cy. or 4? is it TBI injected or MPI injected 1 injector or 4? we need to know that first. does it run on test fuel for 3 seconds. when was last time it run perfect, last week last year. what? first off stop guessing, you can go broke that way. want to diagnosis it? the steps are easy. if fuel is good..

1. fuses good.?
2. CEL lamp glow keyon, if not ECU is bad. or bulb , it must glow.
3. compression over 150PSI on all cyl. (w.o.t = wide open throttle)
4. do a 60k, mile tune up yet, filters, spark,. and cam timing belt.?
5. if not, why wait?
6. 6: is spark good tall cylinders not just 1? is the timing way off if yes, the cam belt did slip, do not fiddle tiiming, fix the belt. first.
7. ok it now magically runs on test fuel for 3 seconds and sounds great. so we do fueling last.
8. fuel pressure tests are next. takes $20 gauge got one?
9. ill stop here, as fueling tests are long play.l..... ask. if you can get to step 9,

I think all 94 metors are TBI engines, one injector up to 1997 inclusive. then the 1998 offered 4cyl, MPI injected engine. have you learned how to use flash codes (DTC) yet? insert jumper , key on, see CEL lamp glow and flash 12s' the crank for 5seconds, see if the flashes go to 41 or 42? bingo if yes. the TBI allows the mech to watch injection, at the TB. with top hose off. you can watch it inject as person 2 cranks. does it? the ECU brain cuts fuel at the first sign of:

1. lost spark (to stop fires)
2. lost Cmp sensor, same .
3. TPS ground wire busted and ecu things foot is W.O.T (super secret unflood mode) (or TPS cracked in half inside)

or total loss of fuel pressure.

click metro here and read http://www.fixkick.com/ see those 2 forums. or here http://www.teamswift.net/index.php GEO swift? if you own any GEO, ANY. be proactive (its old) and buy the books, then ask questions. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=1993+geo+metro+operators+guide&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1993+geo+metro+operators+manual&_nkw=1993+geo+metro+operators+manual&_sacat=0 or get an account at alldata.com or join a real forum and ask there. or google all week. those are the DIY choices. or google like this, google really is your friend.... https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+geo+metro+fuse+box&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=cxrNU7DaDMuTyASOrYCwAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1120&bih=516&dpr=1.71

First stepwould typically be to replace the PCV valve. It's located behind the valve cover at the bottom of the rubber tube that connects to the back of the valve cover and branches off to the air filter housing. Alternate possibility: If the head gasket has been replaced, it's likely one of the oil returns is blocked (replacement head gaskets, for whatever reason, don't usually align with the head correctly). The solution is to open the secondary oil return. I used a one foot piece of 4 gauge bare copper wire (more of a 1/4" copper rod). Remove the valve cover. Taper the end of the copper wire to a blunt point and drive it about 6 inches down the oil return on the backside of the head near the rear of the head (directly behind where the oil filler cap was).

Circuit breaker box under the hood. Try replacing that breaker. Seems as though it's weak as heat gets to it.