20 Most Recent 2006 Hyundai Elantra - Page 4 Questions & Answers

You must remove completely the clutch lever at the transmission pressure plate bearing to disangage, to install you need a new bearing (when you install it, it came in 2 part when install it snap togetter) can not go down put it beside on the frame

connect the boost cabled and lock and unlock the car to reset the alarm, then start it. This is normal!

Just to clear things up, having the monitors ready has nothing do to with OBD Communications. Ready or not, it will communicate. The original issue here was a station with a bad scanner. she did the right thing trying somewhere else and following up to get her $ back.

I assume you determined the diagnostic trouble code for the sensor was TRUE/VALIDATED?
If so, then there is NO reason to do anything else but 'swap out the part.' Your second question is somewhat puzzling... the cam shaft is on TOP of the engine - the sensor's location (standing on the passenger side of the vehicle with the hood open, is on the left side of the engine at approximately the 10 o'clock position of the cam.... the connector to it is at the 9 o'clock position.

get the security code for that radio and insert in into the machine

The green fluid is probably coolant. You would need to have the engine computer scanned for trouble codes to proceed.

if the dash lighs are out, did you try turning the knob that turns them off and dims them. without the book, it may be difficult, but I would think the fuse would be small like 3, 5 or 7.5 amps. that should narrow it down. test fuses using a test light. turn the hadlamp switch on and touch each fuse, both sides. the fuse that lights up on one side, but not the other is the bad one. if you look real close on the ends of the fuse the ends are open where you can poke the end of the test light in there andt est for voltage. if you ck fuses and both sides are dead, that means that particular fuse isnt powered up. dont worry about those, but when you turn the headlights on, the fuse for the dash will have power.

check your stabilizer bar or the bushing

Sounds like you have an air lock in the heater, needs bleeding. From cold check and top up coolant, run engine without coolant cap put heater control to hot, watch the fluid level, will rise then fall suddenly when the thermostat opens, top up coolant and put the cap back on, later when the engine has cooled down again, check coolant level. Hope this helps.

So, you tested the fuel rail in the engine compartments and have fuel coming out at the shreader valve?

the cap top is strip out get a new cap at any parts store , then pry the top part of cap off then with a pair of channel lock pliers u should be able to grab n remove bottom part

do a compression test engine could warped head or damaged pistons scored cylinders bores.