Top 20 2006 Hyundai Accent Questions & Answers

You must fit the correct part.

known issues are broken timing belt first place to check next is to have the fault codes read to check for crank/cam position sensor failures

sounds like the cable became detached or has broken.

turn of the fan

14.5V output. is to spec on a new alternator at rest battery will be 12 volts whats the problem

Sounds like an internal gearbox fault

Surely could be a timing belt. Top cover is not hard to remove to check.

What light was on when stopped? DO these lights go out when vehicle shut off and restarted?

check the rear brakes for linings and adjustment

take it to a shop, it requires specialty equipment for the AC to work properly again.

I would suggest a compression test to ensure that all the damaged valves were replaced. Replace the MAF sensor as it appears that it is faulty

Sorry, no there isn't.

check to see if the Instrument Cluster fuse is ok

i am guessin you have the 1.6l engine. from what i recall a few months back while reading through a service manual, the ideal compression ratio should be about 190psi, with a minimum ratio of 170psi. the difference in the cylinders should not exceed 20psi. based on the results you have given, i think you have a serious problem. i would recommend you try a "wet' compression test. that would atleast give an indication of whether or not the piston rings are worn out as well. to answer your second question, the 1.6l has a total of 16 valves, four per cylinder, 2 exhaust and 2 intake.

When you stand infront of the car. open the bonnet, look where the engine and gearbox join. left of the gearbox and engine joint. below the head and above the sump. a black sensor with one 10m bolt. one black wire about 4mm thick which plug into a wire coming from the top of the engine. see picture

it could be your transmisssion is not reading in park pos. have you looked at that.

if you have damaged rods or valves in your engine, there would be almost no chance that the engine would run or even start. it is quite possible that you did not get your timing right when changing the belt. in most cases, getting the pulley to piston 1 TDC does not always guarantee that the engine timing is correct. my advice is to recheck the timing of the engine, as well as Ignition timing (which is also controlled by the positioning of the crank pulley) before condemning any internal mechanical failure. to answer your question, there is no written way of knowing whether your rods or valves are damaged without taking apart the engine and inspecting for damage. however, damaged internal components will always leave a trail. you can try draining the engine oil and checking the oil for any metal filings. you can also take out the oil sump to check for any pieces of broken metal in the sump. hope that helps

hi there is a option in the settings to automatically search for the station if frequency changes try turning it off to see if that helps

is it possible that you did not get the ignition timing right? the symptoms you describe indicate a problem with ignition timing. in most cases when doing timing with the crank pulley at TDC does not necessarily ensure that ignition timing is correct. use a timing light, (if you can get one) to confirm this. typically, inspect the pulley and ensure that the marks on the pulley are at par with the mark on the crank case (where the pulley is mounted).

Hi there, I think from memory the whole hub assembly comes with new bearings when you replace it, it's a easy change, remove wheel, remove the brake calliper, remove the front axel nut and the hub should come off, hope this helps, it's a easy change