20 Most Recent 2005 Kia Sedona - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I'm afraid you will have to check all the wires that go through from the door pillar to the door inside the rubber sleeve, it sounds like it has an intermittent short and this is the most likely place for it to happen, check for any visible external damage first to the sleeve, if its split or looks pinched is a good sign your in the right place. You should also check the door lock switch in the door panel because water getting in down the window has also been known to cause problems with door switches and can also give the same symptoms. Visually check rubber sleeves on the doors first then it take your pick which what you remove next, but if you have to remove a door panel start with the drivers door and check the switch. if you cant check the switch try disconnecting it and see if the fault is still there, this is also a good idea to locate the locking mechanism plugs on the other doors and try disconnecting them one at a time, although depending where the short is, this might not help, but its worth a try.

it sounds like the normal problem you get with Sedona electric seats. If you are competent and can remove the trim from around the seat plus remove the switch cluster, you will be on your way. the unfortunate part is you will also need to be able to dismantle the switch which is full of little bits including springs etc. If your happy to go ahead with this, all I can tell you to do is take the switch to a place where you wont loose any of the bits when you open the switch. once you have it in bits all you need to do is clean the contacts on the switch that controls the up and down movement, and then reassemble it all, if you have done it right it should work. If your not confident enough to tackle this job, and it is fiddly, go buy a new switch or find someone who will do it for you, but that's where the problem is.

It's likely not fuel in the coolant. That is, unless you're also seeing oil or muddy sludge in the coolant as well. The fuel system and cooling system don't share any components. More often, the pH level of the coolant has risen too far and you're smelling a very high alcohol content. First thing to do, in any case, would be to have the coolant flushed and start from scratch. From there, I would have a combustion leak test done. That is where a technician will sample coolant vapors and test for hydrocarbons (traces of exhaust fumes). If there are any HC's found in the coolant, you are likely looking at a cylinder head gasket failure/ cracked head.

Under the hood you should see a sticker that shows the belt routing. You will need a ratchet and appropriate socket the pull the automatic belt tensioner over to get the belt fully in place. It can be tight if you have big arms but it is not a big job. Start to finish anyone with the tools and strength to overcome the spring on the tensioner should be able to do it in half and hour. Probably less than half that time if all goes smoothly.

At the front of the crankshaft. if its near time for the timing belt, you want to replace it along with any pullies, tensioner and water pump

Have your battery tested. If the fans ran all morning, too cool down your van it probably killed the battery. Also keep an eye on your temp gauge, and make sure it's not overheating. The temp sensor for the fans could also be faulty ; causing them to run longer than they should when you turn the van off.

never stalls running>? (2nd shoe drops.................) which engine.???? of the many, cant fix engines, if unknown.!?

1. my guess, is the air fuel ratio is why to lean hot. engine.
2. or it has hot sock failure , spark loss. ever check spark hot failed.?

there are 1 to 10 tests to do, want to test? or guess?

the lever wont or the transmission wont?

If you need to ask, take it to an oil change establishment, because if you screw up anything, you'll be out an engine.

Have them test the battery and double check the connections on the alternator. Possible the battery suffered some damage from the bad alternator.

You can't plug the hoses to the engine. You have to loop the hose back to the engine with 5/8 hose careful not to kink them. Tie the hose up out of the way with tie straps.

Well without no ing the size of the hose your best bet is to just get a bolt that is one inch long that will go into the hose and put a hose clamp on it and tighten it up do for both hoses`s .

The 2005 is supposed to be the same fuel filter assembly as the earlier years 2002, 2003, 2004, although I tried to put the 2005 assembly in my 2003 and it was too wide for the opening in the gas tank, and therefore would not work. In any case, that particular assembly also did not have the same fuel filter as the one for my 2003, but it may have been an aftermarket part. Assuming it was an aftermarket product that is not the same as my 2003, when the original is the same between the years, I have captured a detailed explanation and edited it from another mechanic here. Kia Carnival (GV6) -Replacing the Fuel Filter This procedure is an expansion of the procedure for removing and replacing the fuel filter provided in the Kia Carnival / Sedona GV6 workshop manual 'FL' section. It may not necessarily apply to vehicles with other than the 2.5 litre GV6/KV5/K5 engine. These have the paper element fuel filter as part of the fuel pump / level sender assembly in the fuel tank. It is a hard plastic container style filter that retails around $35. If you have read the Kia 'FL' workshop manual section on fuel filter replacement this looks like a relatively straightforward job, and it is. However, it is a bit more involved than the manual would suggest The fuel filter for this vehicle should be replaced at 60,000km intervals, or more frequently if fuel particulate contamination is known to be a problem in your region. The filter is located in the fuel tank in an assembly that includes the electric fuel pump and fuel level sender. The fuel tank is under the vehicle, almost in the middle, and the pump / filter / sender assembly is accessed from a service opening in the floor in front of and between the middle row seats. It's not a bad idea to schedule this task when the fuel tank is nearly empty. Nevertheless, it's a job where you will have fuel everywhere and need lots of rags and plastic bags. Make sure you have an appropriately ventilated workspace and, above all, keep in mind ignition hazards. Releasing Fuel System Pressure This procedure should be performed before opening up any of the fuel system lines. As the Kia manual says: WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM REMAINS UNDER PRESSURE WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. RELEASE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE BEFORE DISCONNECTING ANY FUEL LINE TO REDUCE THE CHANCE OF PERSONAL INJURY OR FIRE DAMAGE TO VEHICLE COMPONENTS. 1. With your fingers lift and swing open the carpeted hatch of the service opening in the floor just in front and in the middle of the second row of seats. The hatch opens toward the front of the vehicle - This exposes the 4 screws used to remove the hatch. Hatch in floor in front of and between the middle row of seats. Hatch lifted. It just covers the screws. 2. Remove 4 screws and remove the hatch. The metal access panel can now be seen, with the fuel pump / level sender cable emerging from it. The cable is the electric pump and fuel level sender harness. 3. Remove the 4 screws securing the metal panel to the floor pan. Swing the panel to the RH side of the vehicle. 4. The top of the pump / filter/ sender assembly and the fuel tank can now be seen. (It'll usually be covered in road dust). 5. Make sure you can remove the pump electrical connector (i.e. contacts not corroded, etc). It's released by depressing the plastic locking tang on top of the cable side. However leave the connector connected for the moment. 6. Start the engine. 7. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. The engine will run for a while and stall as the fuel pressure drops. 8. Turn the ignition off. 9. Remove the fuel filler cap to release any pressure in the fuel tank. 10. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing any work on the fuel system. Fuel Filter Removal : 1. Release the fuel system pressure be sure that the fuel filler cap has been removed to release any pressure in the fuel tank, and the negative battery terminal has been disconnected. (Do it in that order, otherwise you'll have to use the manual 'emergency' wire-pull release to open the fuel flap). 2. From the service opening in the cabin (opened as part of the procedure to release the fuel pressure), make sure the top of the pump / filter / sender assembly is clean to prevent FOD entering the fuel tank. Loosen dirt with a brush (a stiff paintbrush is good), and use a vacuum cleaner or air hose to remove the material. (There was even road gravel on mine). I went to the dollar store and bought a small amount of clear plastic contact paper, and when it was time to remove the fuel pump assembly I had a tacky cover for the hole to the gas tank. It stuck to the surface just right, and sealed the opening and kept the gas from releasing fumes into the cabin. And just as important, nothing could fall into the tank while I was doing the work.. 3. Take all the usual prudent precautions regarding sources of ignition close by before the next step. E.g. if you used a vacuum cleaner to clean the top of the tank, disconnect it from the mains or move it well away. Put a plastic sheet or similar between the service opening and the LH sliding door. This will protect the carpet from fuel drips as you remove the assembly from the vehicle. 4. Use pliers to compress and move the metal or plastic clamps on the main and return hoses, mark which one is which, on the left or right.. Have rags at the ready and slowly & carefully pull the rubber hoses off the pipes -although the pressure has been nominally released, plenty of fuel will still squirt from the hoses (gravity-feeding from the hoses, the regulator & injector rails) so be careful as the hoses come off the pipes that fuel doesn't spray - particularly into your eyes. Catch as much as you can with the rags. If the hoses are hard to get off, twist them a bit to loosen any adhesion to the pipes. I swung the panel back in position for a while to allow the spilled fuel to evaporate from the top of the tank before placing the contact paper on the opening. 5. Undo the 6 small screws securing the pump / filter / sender assembly to the fuel tank. The assembly is on springs to keep it firmly pressed to the bottom of the fuel tank. So as you undo the screws it may tend to spring up. Just keep it pressed down with your hand until all screws are removed. 6. Read all of this step before lifting the assembly out of the fuel tank. The gasket under the top may have adhered slightly to the tank and may provide a bit of initial resistance. As you raise the assembly out of the tank, begin tilting it to the left side of the vehicle to allow the fuel level float and arm to come cleanly out of the tank. Lifting the assembly straight up may damage the arm and level sender assembly. Unfortunately the diagram in the 'FL' manual doesn't give you a clue that the fuel level float and arm are there at all because of the aspect from which it is drawn. Diagram from the Kia workshop manual 'FL' section - the float and arm are not apparent. 7. Make sure the connectors do not hang into the tank. 8. I removed the fuel level sender mechanism from the side of the canister as I was concerned that it could get damaged. Not really necessary though. It's removed by disconnecting the electrical connector under the top plate, depressing the plastic tang at the lower end of the sender assembly, and moving the assembly upwards until it clears the plastic rails on the outside of the canister. 9. Remove the canister from pump & filter assembly. If not already removed, the fuel level sender cable needs to be unplugged. Then the four plastic clips are raised gently with a screwdriver and the canister slips off. Some resistance will be felt -you are also pulling an O-ring out of an internal fitting in the canister.When pulling the canister off the assembly, the resistance felt is from pulling the return line connection out of its mating fitting in the canister. On reinstallation, these need to be aligned. 10. The Kia manual simply says "Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and pull the fuel pump from the fuel filter" and presents a diagram.but there's a bit more to it. More detailed steps are: • Disconnect the fuel pump connector from under the top plate. • Remove the main hose fitting from the filter housing by gently lifting up the two plastic retainers • Remove the filter (containing the pump) from the canister top (on mine, the plastic clips barely retained it). • Remove the pump retaining cap by gently prying up the retainers. Be careful not to lose the rubber pad between cap and the pump. Gauze screen Main hose fitting Pump retaining cap With a small screwdriver, depress the metal tang on the electrical connection on the side of the filter and remove the contact: Slide the pump out of the filter assembly. The cable connection on the pump body is designed to be removed, but is not easy in situ as it is buried in the filter. I left it on and extracted the cable & connector through the opening in the filter, then disconnected the cable from the pump. 11. The manual says "Be careful not to lose the 4 O-Rings." and presents the diagram. Here's where the 'O-Rings' are located (the sleeve and gasket don't seem much like 'O-rings' to me, but what's in a name). "O-Ring" (gasket) on top. "O-Ring" (sleeve) on pump outlet. O-Ring on Return line O-Ring on Main line to filter Rubber pad outlet under pump inlet Interpretation of Kia's "O-Ring" diagram. The pump and top "O-Rings" are more appropriately described as a sleeve and gasket respectively. With mine, the main line O-ring stayed in the filter and needed to be gently pried out with a screwdriver. O-ring retained in filter Fuel Filter Replacement Pump retaining cap Top springs to hold assembly to bottom of tank. Canister top Filter unit Return line fitting Main line fitting in filter outlet Gauze screen Pump and filter assembly before canister is slipped on. 1. Remove the fuel pump / filter / sender assembly 2. Gently clean any particulate matter off the gauze pre-filter screen with a brush. And clean any particulate out of the bottom of the canister. (Be careful not to damage or dislodge the flapper valve in the canister). 3. Make sure the rubber sleeve (and the funny little 'gear' spacer) are on the pump outlet, align the outlet with the new filter's inlet and press the pump firmly into the new filter until it seats. Press pump outlet into this fitting in filter. 4. Slip the gauze screen into the pump retaining cap (assuming that it has fallen off), put the rubber pad into the cap, and clip the cap onto the filter. 5. Plug the cable into the pump and slide the electrical contact into its location into the filter until it clicks. 6. Feed the connector & cable through the canister lid. 7. Ensure the o-ring is in place on the main line fitting, and press the fitting into to the filter's outlet until the tangs click on both sides. 8. Sit the return line hose fitting into the fitting in the filter, making sure it is engaged fully in the four slots. (The fitting looks like it's part of the fuel system, but it's in fact 'blind'). 9. Hold the assembly upside down, and lower the canister onto it, aligned so that the return line engages with the tube in the canister. Press firmly until the clips on the canister lid engage. 10. Reinstall the fuel level sender onto the side of the canister if you removed it. 11. Reconnect the fuel level sender connector on the underside of the top. The sender connector is on the sender side of the top: 12. Recheck the security of all fittings etc, Remove the contact paper seal you put onto the gas tank opening, and lower the assembly into the fuel tank (pipes point to the vehicle left side). 13. Hold the top down against the springs, align the holes and install the 6 screws. 14. Put the clamps onto the rubber hoses, reconnect to the pipes, and reconnect the pump/sender cable and the other cables. 15. Screw the 5 screws to hold the metal plate over the unit 16. Screw on the plastic/carpet cover. Before starting the vehicle, make sure there are no gas leaks, that the electrical connectors are installed tightly and the gas cap is back on. When you turn the ignition key do not engage the starter yet - you should hear the pump working. Let the pump work for the 30 seconds it will run before a start. Turn the key off and reingage the pump two more times before engaging the starter. This will move gas to where it needs to be in order to start, and create the vacuum needed to pump the gas from the tank. After three times, turn the ignition key all the way to engage the starter and your vehicle should start.

Lock actuator is going bad. The actuator is part of the door latch on most late models.

generally on this kind of Kia it will be a white or black plug looking thing, that you can either manually turn with your hand, or a screwdriver. possibly looks something like this that you'll be removing. (link from a Kia Forum) http://www.kia-forums.com/attachments/kia-carnival-sedona-forum/6599d1287262964-how-do-you-drain-radiator-radiator-valve.jpg