Top 10 2000 Saturn SL Questions & Answers

You need to check and/or replace the thermostat and/or the temp. sensor. Take a meat thermometer and stick it in the overflow tank. The temp gauge on the dash should register above the 1/4 mark after at least 15 minutes of driving. If so, the meat thermometer should read above 180 degrees. If the meat thermometer reads 180 but the gauge isn't above 1/4, then you need to replace the sensor. If the meat thermometer doesn't read 180 or higher, then you need to replace the thermostat. The thermostat in these cars, though it doesn't fail on its own, has an unnecessary rubber gasket that fails, and allows coolant to leak past even when shut, causing the engine to not warm up thoroughly. IF the engine doesn't warm up, the idle won't come down--speaking from personal experience. I had to replace both items on my car. Now it idles fine, and after a bit of driving the gauge registers between 1/4 and 1/2, but always above 1/4. DO NOT tamper with idle adjustments unless you have exhausted all other possibilities. They are factory set, critical, and almost never need readjusting. Good luck.

You should try re-learning the pass-lock system first. Turn the key to the on position and leave it on for 10 min, or until the security light goes out. Turn the key off for at least 30 sec. Turn the key back on, very important not to turn too far and bump the starter, for another 10 minute cycle. Do this 3 times for a total of 30 min. After the 3rd cycle it should start.

Try pulling the engine coolant temp sensor, They often crack not sure why but the ceramic tip cracks makes the car hard to start, the car's idle may race while shifting gears, and often smokes. The sensor is on the right side of the engine when looking at it on the head. Easy to change and get too

need a fuse box diagram for a 2000 saturn ls

Fore remove the door panel in a SL2, you have to take off the door handle. You have to disengage the door locking mechanism from the door handle, then unscrew the panel and take it off.

The door handle unhinges from the locks and from the window controls. If your windows are electric, just unsnap the cord attached and leave it hanging out.

You may have to work with the door handle as it won't come out of the slot very easily and you don't have a lot of room. A flat bladed screwdriver with a long metal piece should work to unsnap it.


ION, L-Series, S-Series 1999-2005 - Window Systems
Door Glass & Regulator
Power Windows
Diagnosis & Testing
Driver's Window Switch

1. Turn the ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the driver window switch.
2. Test for infinite resistance between the signal terminals A and B and the B+ circuit terminal E with the passenger window switch in the INACTIVE position. If less than infinite resistance, replace the driver window switch.
3. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal A and the B+ circuit terminal E with the passenger window switch in the UP position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the driver window switch.
4. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal B and the B+ circuit terminal E with the passenger window switch in the DOWN position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the driver window switch.
5. Test for infinite resistance between the signal terminals F and H and the B+ circuit terminal E with the driver window switch in the INACTIVE position. If less than infinite resistance, replace the driver window switch.
6. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal F and the B+ circuit terminal E with the driver window switch in the UP position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the driver window switch
7. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal H and the B+ circuit terminal E with the driver window switch in the DOWN position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the driver window switch.

Passenger's Window Switch

1. Turn the ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the passenger window switch. Test for infinite resistance between the signal terminals G and F and the B+ circuit terminal with the switch in the INACTIVE position. If less than infinite resistance, replace the switch.
2. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal G and the B+ circuit terminal with the switch in the UP position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the switch.
3. Test for less than 2 ohms of resistance between the signal terminal F and the B+ circuit terminal with the switch in the DOWN position. If greater than 2 ohms, replace the switch.

Window Motor

1. Install a 30-amp fused jumper wire between the control terminal A and 12 volts. Momentarily install a jumper wire between the control terminal B and ground. The motor should perform the UP or DOWN function.
2. If the function does not perform as specified, replace the motor.
3. Reverse the jumper wires; the motor should perform the DOWN or UP function.
4. If the function does not perform as specified, replace the motor.

Removal & Installation
Window Motor & Regulator

1. Raise the window to the full UP position.
2. Remove the upper trim panel.
3. Remove the manual window regulator handle, if equipped.
4. Remove the power door lock switch, if equipped.
5. Remove the pull cup assembly.
6. Remove the door trim push-in retainers.
7. Remove the screw from the trim panel.
8. Pull the bottom of the door trim out to disengage the clips.
9. Lift up on the door trim panel to disengage the inner belt molding from the door flange.
10. Remove the door trim panel.
11. Remove the radio speaker.
12. Remove the front door water deflector.
13. Disengage the door glass to the regulator sash channel clips. Separate the door glass from the sash channel.
14. Push the window to the up position and tape in place.
15. Loosen the power window regulator bolts.
16. Remove the rear regulator bolt.
17. Lift the window regulator, disengaging the loosened bolts from the door.
18. Disconnect the regulator electrical connector.
19. Remove the power window regulator from the door.

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Window Switch

1. Using a flat-bladed tool, pry the switch from the door trim panel enough to expose the locking tabs.
2. Press the locking tab to remove the switch from the door trim panel.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector.
4. Remove the switch.

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I hope helped with this; good luck.

well easiest way is to tape the old key near the ignition

without key you need to essentially re wire the ignition and under the hood arround the computer controlls and power supply

i would check the plastic pipes which run from the canister to the fuel tank ,these are usually located behind the fuel tank

Click on the following direct Link. It has the Serpentine Belt Diagram for the L-Series for your specific engine and options (AC/No AC etc.). It has other additonal diagrams for your future use. It also has diagrams on how to rotate/move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm to loosen and remove the Belt.

Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT OR OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating it\moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2000/make/saturn/model/ls/2000_saturn_ls_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

What does that mean?The P0410 code refers to the emissions system. The AIR pump puts air to the exhaust to lower emissions. It takes in outside air and pumps it through two one-way check valves into each bank of the exhaust.
About 90% of the time that this code is set, the one-way check valves have worn out or failed and allow water (which occurs naturally in the exhaust) back into the pump. In any cold climate, especially in climates with higher humidity, this water may be more excessive. The water partially fills the AIR pump, it can then freeze. When the PCM commands the pump on, if the pump is frozen it cannot turn, thus overloading the circuit and "popping" the fuse.
OBD-Codes.com on Facebook SymptomsPossibly symptoms include:

• MIL illumination obviously
• Hesitation on acceleration
• Noise from a bad/stuck AIR pump

CausesA code P0410 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump
• Blown AIR pump fuse due to freezing up

Possible SolutionsNote: There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) regarding this code for a number of GM models. The TSB calls for the replacement of the AIR pump and the installation of a new secondary injection hose. The TSB can be found on this ACDelco site.
Additionally, if you simply replace the AIR pump the problem may return again (and again). If you replace the pump, also clean out the hoses and replace the one-way check valve. If this is on a GM model that the TSB applies to, follow those instructions in the link above. In a few cases, people have put a small hole in the rubber cover on the pump which allows any water to drain out.
Also, please note that this may be covered under the emissions warranty on the vehicle. If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty is still valid!

• Replace the AIR pump AND one-way check valve
• Test and clean the AIR pump AND test and replace the one-way air check valve
• Replace the AIR pump inlet hose
• Replace the AIR pump fuse (found under the hood)

Hello,

The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. Unless there is an access panel in the trunk or under the back seat, you will have to remove the fuel tank to access the pump.

Good luck.