20 Most Recent 2001 Saab 9-3 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

there most likely is no need to replace the oil as oil travels with the gas it is normally put in through the compressor but the amount is critical as excessive oil will block the TX valve now that you have replaced the evaporator, take it to an auto ac specialist shop , have the system evacuated right down , any oil required to be added and the correct amount of gas to be installed

Jack, Have not done a SAAB brake booster myself, hoping links below will help you out. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." Walk me through brake booster replacement http://www.thesaabsite.com/faqs/FAQ--brakes-contributor--brake-pump-booster-issues-%26-removal.html?id=1300 9 5 Brake booster replacement the easier way saab 9 3 brake booster replacement Google Search

Very,very easy.Just pull out the switch useing your nails.There is 3 metal springs inside, not very strong.Do not use screwdrivers or knifes,because you gona scratch the dash.

Crank and no start. Study these pages and you may be able to identify your problem....... Crank No Start It should not be blowing smoke though. Can you advise the colour of the smoke from the exhaust? If the smoke was whitish in colour this indicates there is coolant leaking into one or more of the combustion chambers which is a bad sign. You did mention the engine was misfiring which is possibly indicative of low compression due to a combustion leak. If there is coolant leaking into the cylinder(s) this will be via a failed head gasket or a crack in the cylinder head or both.

DI cassette or wiring

po722 =output speed sensor no signal

Switch ignition ON. Press brake pedal. Press button [A]. RHD - 100248. LHD - 100254. Turn button [B], until the message "System Settings" is displayed. Press button [B]. Turn button [B] until the message "Service Info" is displayed. Press button [B]. The message "% left of oil quality/days to service" is displayed. Turn button [B] until the message "Reset Service Ind." is displayed. Press button [B]. The message "Are you sure? Yes or No" is displayed. Turn button [B] to select "Yes". Press button [B]. The message "service parameters updated" is displayed. Switch ignition OFF.
BUTTON B IS ROUND PUSH/TURN BUTTON
BUTTON A IS TWO DOWN FROM THIS

I'm not going to lie to you & tell you this is my fix or idea, I had to poke around a little to this info, this happened to my key less entry, I put it a drawer a year ago & forgot about it, so here is what I found, if changing your battery did not work, more then likely the contacts that allow continuity of the power are worn out, you'll have to take the remote apart, first you'll to get some aluminum tape or heavy gauge foil, spray on adhesive, your not going to need a lot ask if there is something like it in a smaller amount, it has to be sticky right away like tape, now just view the photos bellow it's strait forward. I hope that helps. I know they can be $$spendy$$ to replace for some cars, SORRY THERE NOT IN ORDER BUT YOU GET THE IDEA... Best Wishes!

sounds like a linkage problem. when in gear, does the shift indicator look like its in-between gears?

The turbo does NOTHING to make the car start. A turbo only adds oxygen to the intake during acceleration or at speed. The car should start unless there's another problem.

hold the clear button without releasing. wait for a beep, and keep holding. a second beep will occur, and it should be reset.

Autodata based on a 2.2 tid( as you haven't stated yours that i can see)fuse box facia 2. behind right hand dash behind/above main fuse box relay plate. the plate contains only relays and the relay is relay 12. there is a group of 4 small relays in one corner and relay 12 is in the opposite corner to them.

Sounds like your starter motor is bad. Is the starter motor spinning?

check battery voltage and clean cables. Make sure the battery ground wire to the body is in good shape. Second to check is the alternator because it can lower voltage if defective, it can be checked at auto parts store. You can also check wires leading to alternator to make sure they have not touched something too hot and melted insulation. just lift the harness off the engine and if it sticks to the engine that could be where problem is. I hope this puts you in the proper direction.

Need more details but that reminds me a little bit of a 9-3 we had that had a failed MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) that lost a ton of power and was groggy until we swapped it out with one from another car. Won't coast baffles me... maybe the turbo is seizing up??

Probably need to replace the MAP Sensor and or repair the wire harness/connector going to it. It should look something like the pic below and be mounted in the intake manifold. The easiest way to approach it may be to buy the right part for that year and model and then you will more easily be able to identify it under the hood.

If it was flushed by an auto repair facility, take the vehicle back there and tell them.... something might not be tight.