Top 20 2002 Land Rover Freelander Questions & Answers

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Replace sensor

The most likely location for the pump and filter will be mounted on the body behind the rear wheel arch liner on the right hand side of the car, (driver's point of view).

first check tyre tread, remove objects in tread as these can cause some of the symptoms, others are the bearing and tracking and steering idler, also can be a lose wheel, another thing to check is the discs look for broken or warn pads stones can get in and damage the pad or twist the pad in turn can make a rumbel. ( if you brake and the rumble stop it can be this part that's wrong) bearings and tracking jack up the wheel and test with a wiggle from 12-6 and 9 to 3 on the wheel if makes a sound or moves excessively then this can be the bearing has failed and needs replacing if this is fine check the the tracking and idler pull on the tracking arm if you feel a clunk then its weak and needs replacing same on idler. hope this helps

Have a compression test done and make sure the head gasket is OK before doing anything else.

Check for a possible leaking vacuum system, maybe the vacuum booster is leaking, that would explain the idle being affected by stepping on the brake pedal.

Pull the rear trim panel off the tailgate and test the motor.

A VIBRATION in the drivetrain is going to be noticeable both during acceleration and deceleration . Sounds like engine skip under a load.

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how long since the auto fluid checked/changed , might be this simple

Might be worth changing water expansion tank cap these can lose water under pressure

try this to rest the windows Lower the window all the way manually. Then manually raise the window for about 2-3 secs and stop. Then manually raise the window all the way to the top and stop. Then manually raise the window (actually just hold the button up as the window can't raise further) for 2-3 secs.

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Here's a link to your belt diagram and more. 2002 Land Rover Freelander Serpentine Belt Routing and Timing Belt Diagrams

I think that F stands for Fault. Have it scanned for fault codes.

Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

there is no air in a hydraulic system or if there is , the clutch will not disengage if you have any sound when depressing the clutch pedal, it is most likely from the throw out bearing running dry when pressure is applied to the pressure plate fingers so it amounts to this if you press on the clutch pedal and you can readily engage first gear or reverse and you have steady operation when you take your foot of the pedal , the clutch system is working as it should that means that any noise you get when pressing on the pedal is when the throw out bearing is placed under load and as there is no other part that is moving, that is the logical area one point here --if it is an air noise and of that you are sure , when people press on the clutch pedal, to stop vehicle movement they also have the foot resting or pressing on the brake and a hissing noise here can be from a vacuum leak at the brake pedal from the brake booster easy to check before pulling a box that doesn't have a problem

I would let a mechanic do it however if you have the cars manual it should show you, but most likely you need to take the dash board out.