20 Most Recent 1996 Geo Prizm - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hello
The ABS light can come on due to low system voltage. You think you have power, but the power required to start the engine (100+ Amps) may not be there due to a defective battery or battery connections that are corroded by battery acid weeping up from the posts. Most auto parts stores like Autozone and Oriley will test your battery and alternator free of charge, some will even install the battery for free. I would do this, clean the battery cables and any other corroded connections around the battery and have the battery electronically load tested along with the alternator.

you can go to this site. the details are to long. www.e-how.com/way_5579019_replace-geo-prism-wheel-bearing good-day !

i have a 95 corolla which has same motor, i replaced distributor coils all that turns out it wasthe am2 under thehood fuse box

134A

A recharge of the A/C should last indefinitely, UNLESS you have leaks. The procedure involves recovering all refrigerant, then a Vacuum test for leaks. Fix any leaks then recharge.The key is the there is a specified amount of refrigerant that gets installed, no more, no less.
The screeching may well be a belt adjustment or alignment issue and yes you must resolve that or have future problems. NEVER consider belt dressing, works for extremely short time. Fix the issue, do not mask it.

you better check your starter motor (relay and/or fuse)

I would definitely try the distributer cap and rotor button. It's about a 15 minute job and might solve your problem. As the car warms up the electrical components of course heat up too. As the heat goes up, resistance also increases in electrical connections, wires, etc. You could be getting enough current to pass between the rotor and the poles at low temps but, as they heat up, sufficient current for a good spark is not being passed along.

there is a small hole behind the headlight. use a flat head screwdriver to turn dial in bottom of hole.headlight will move up or down determined by turning right or left.

normally there is a valve that looks like a tire stem on top of engine. you can turn the key on, but not start car, then take something to push in the stem until fuel comes out. you may have to turn key off again and push the stem in again. when you turn on the key it makes the fuel pump, pump fuel up to the engine. you are trying to get the air out.
good luck

I would have the front end looked at. It may be the tire, rotor or wheel bearing. It might also be the CV joint. They are all very important safety issues since you might lose control of the car.

The simple answer is heavier oil or a product called "motor honey", "stp" or similar, available at your Auto Parts store. Ask the guy or gal at the counter for the best product for your application.

Repairing the seal is very costly.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

CV Joint went out. since it gets worse when you turn right it is most likely an inside drivers side CV joint or the out side passenger side. The popping sounds was probably the dust boot popping from pressure build up which should make it simple to locate since you just need to identify the boot with a tear in it.

You will have to a floor jack to jack the transmission up, to unbolt and pull the transmission, Un bolt the pressure plates and pull off the clutch and pressure plate assembly. To reassemble you have to use a clutch alighnment tool, place the new clutch disk against the flywheel, insert the alighnment toll and bolt down the new pressure plates. Reinstall the transmission by turning the back spline to alighn the front spline(must be in first gear not neutral) slide into position and bolt back in place. There will be a cross member with a rubber mount going to the transmission that will need to be removed first thing.

After taking the wheel off and supporting the car on jack stands, You will need to take off the axle retaining nut. Normaly held on by lots of torque and may need to use an impact wrench. After that you need to "split" the control arm at the lower ball joint. this involves the use of a ball joint seperator, sometimes called a "pickle fork". After that then you need to pull the hub assembly outwards to take the outboard end of the axle shaft out. Once the end is out and the hub assembly is safely supported and out of the way, you can pull the entire shaft assembly out of the transmission. It has a ring that sits in a groove to hold it in and it has to compress into the slot before the shaft will come out. this may take some yanking or the use of prybars on each side. If you do use prybars be gentle as the transmission case can't take a lot of pressure. When you pull the shaft out some fluid might leak out so have a drain pan underneath. Be sure to replace the fluid with NEW after assembly.

sounds like a fuel issue i would recommend replacing the fuel filter it is a cheap and easy fix after that if the problem persists then i would take it to a shop to get a free diagnosis in order to find out if it is your fuel injectors or your fuel pump. more symptoms of a bad fuel system would be extreme drop in rpm when put into drive, choking or sputtering, large amounts of smoke from the exhaust pipe, or complete shut down of motor after running.if you need any instruction on removal and installation of any part please comment back on this post thank you, and good luck.

need to check the hub. it could be the broken bearing making the sound.

It sounds like master cyl. is drawing in air causing prob. also another test would bee too bleed out and get pedal back, now step on pedal and hold firmly and see if pedal creeps near floor indicating innternal leaking in master cyl. also have some one pump bakes slowly aand look for air bubbles in brake res. after bleed out indicating master cyl. is drawing air upon release of pedal.

hard to find a specific picture for it but the nut at the end of the rail need to take out the return line is near there. this is the best pic i got or know of. good luck