20 Most Recent 1996 Geo Prizm - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Could be battery, ignition or fuel? Have it checked by a garage!

In the fuse box under dash or bonnet.

There should be screws on cover or it also might snap off look at it from inside your trun If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_b59056c0c62ecb00

are they fitted in the rear doors or the parcel shelf ,if there aree no visable screws to un do if door fitted then will have to remove the door panel , if on parcel shelf same thing if no screws visable then remove from underneath , hope this is of some help

check the fuse to it. i presume its 100% dead. no sound, no lights, no NUTTN !

Sound like out of balance tire or a separated tire or bearing but, the two most common causes are the ones. I suggest visit some tire shop and would like to have the tires inspected and balanced.Some customers may comment on shaking/vibration in the steering wheel, floor or seat while driving at highway speeds (typically between 60-72 mph (96-115 km/h)) on smooth roads.These specific vehicles may be sensitive to various rotating mass assemblies, especially if they are considered to be out-of-balance.In order to correct this:1. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and correct as necessary.- Missing balance weights- Bent rim flange- Irregular tire wear- Incomplete bead seating- Tire irregularities- Mud/ice build-up in wheel- Stones in the tire tread2. Set the tire pressure to 30 psi (205 kpa) COLD.3. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration still exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic balancer. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible.Important: Some GM dealers may have a Hunter GSP9700 Road Force Balancer. This will simplify Step 5 by not requiring dial indicators. If a Hunter GSP9700 machine is available, it may also be used to measure the radial force of the tire/wheel assembly. A guideline here is 18 lbs or less.4. While on the balancer, measure wheel runout. If radial or lateral runout exceeds .020 in (0.50 mm) for aluminum wheels (.030 in (0.76 mm) for steel wheels), replace the wheel.5. After confirming wheel balance and wheel runout, if any changes were made, road test the vehicle again.6. If the smooth road shake/vibration still exists:Important: The completed worksheet must be attached to the hard copy of the repair order. Record Radial Force Variation readings if you have access to Hunter GSP9700 Wheel Balance equipment. Use the worksheet shown in this bulletin to record the readings.If one or more of the tires have RFV readings in excess of 18 lbs, match mount the tires to get below 18 lbs. Readings of 12 lbs. or less are preferable for critical customer concerns.If the RFV can not be reduced to an acceptable level, replace the affected tire with one obtained locally.The screened tire program is no longer in effect for Bridgestone/Firestone, Goodyear and Michelin. Low speed screened tires are available from Continental General only, and only for the Buick LeSabre.Road test the vehicle to ensure the shake/vibration has been resolved.7. Replace both lower control arms on vehicles built prior to the VIN breakpoints shown. The new lower control arms may provide an incremental improvement to the vehicle ride. Customers who have become "tuned in" to the shake condition may still feel some shake in the vehicle after the new lower control arms are installed.Refer to Lower Control Arm Replacement, (refer to the Parts Information table below for SI document ID numbers).Important: THE CONTROL ARMS SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED ON VEHICLES IF, AFTER THE TIRE AND WHEEL DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIRS HAVE BEEN PERFORMED, THE VIBRATION CONDITION STILL EXISTS.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice weekend.

which of 3 engine? i guess, 7AFE http://www.fixkick.com/PRIZM.html how , you mean you cant unscrew yours> what do you mean how.? from buying it to putting it in? every tiny step> the FSM covers this. on all cars made, get one if serious DIY read the steps there. it is there, on all cars. made. which one, front or rear which STATE, calif car or federal car. the correct 02 sensor depends on 3 factors. CALIF, FEDeral or export model. BOSCH sells the sensor, and will ask the same things. what engine what year CAL of fed. http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder/Pages/VehiclePartFinder.aspx Bosch the 12108 is the front sensor. best is to replace this at 100k miles.

1. you UNPLUG it
2. you unscrew it.
3. and reverse above.

1,2,3 simple. huh, on all cars. made. (rust happens) if not clear, here?, get the car fixed by any ASE professional mech.

ok , you can,. everyone does eventually' in USA this year, it has 2.

double anon posted, why?

the fist test , just like AAA does, is JUMPER CABLE jump start off a running donor car. starts now that means YOUR battery is bad or just discharged. bad battery phantom drains on battery (kills it over night, ,or while at work) charge system dead. there are simple tests for each all using a magic tool called a voltmeter (walmart $10 buy) ask.

12mm x 1.5

10 X 1.25

its not A/C Freon, its called AF, antifreeze coolant, and all leaks end in , overheating (be patient) and engine destruction(if patient) how far can you go with an artery cut.>? same deal. all I have for evidence here, (im blind in this box) is that the cap leak so buy a new cap, if that dont fix it , it means. 1: ENGINE IS overheating, over 250F, 2: or the engine has a bad head gasket or cracked head or block. 3: or bad water pump (impeller 1/2 gone from neglect) 4: or cores in Rad, some blocked, (neglect) 5: loose fan belt. 5: wow, system not fULL? not kept full of AF at all times???? and more. the car and engine are 100 % Toyota Corolla. 7a or 4a engines. not stated. here. these

• 1.6 L 4A-FE (L01) I4
• 1.6 L 4A-GE (LW0) DOHC I4

which one?

what part there are 100s pages.. alldata.com has it. buy the fsm on ebay. or go to toyotanation, and beg. you car is really a corolla.

key on> or off? .?????????????????????????? head lites on of off??????????? the lamps are just one switch in the transmission side. if it sticks on, (bad) it shows reverse when not in reverse, key on. does it?

its not a switch or optional feature. you must scan it.

bad CV? joints feel them by hand, tire off ground. 1 by 1.

A clunk sound is usually normal. Keep in mind that you're engaging another piece of the transmission that makes it turn backwards.

double posted. back up on post and read.

read the fsm read alldata.com>?/ read how on toyota nation dot com.. free, car is a toyota corolla. quote FSM

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
2. Disconnect the ABS speed sensor, if equipped.
3. Remove the halfshaft nut.
4. Remove the brake caliper and support it out of the way .Remove the disc brake rotor.
5. Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle.
6. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
7. Remove the 2 nuts and bolts securing the steering knuckle to the strut.
8. Remove the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
9. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
10. Remove the dust deflector.
11. Use a slide hammer and extractor tool J-26941 or equivalent, to remove the inner oil seal.
12. Remove the snapring.
13. Using hub puller tools J-25287 and J-35378 or equivalents, remove the hub from the knuckle. (use any slam hammer)
14. Remove the brake splash shield.
15. Using a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inside and outside inner bearing races from the hub.
16. Remove the outer oil seal.
17. Position the steering knuckle on support tool J-35379 or equivalent. Remove the bearing from the knuckle using a plastic hammer and remover tool J-35399 or equivalent, and driver handle J-8092 or equivalent.