20 Most Recent 1996 Geo Prizm Questions & Answers

Check all other fuses. Before the fuse blew, you can have damaged lots of electronics. Even almost 20 year old cars do have electronics and relays.

The turn and hazard litses share the same flasher, I would check the the lights by turning on the hazards then walk around the car checking that each light flashes the same brightness, do the same thing using the turn signals if a light is dim or not flashing the switch or the wire between the switch and the lamp is bad. I hope this helps. Take care.

Check the fuses and fuel relay. Service manual should show you where they are.

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store that i used to get manuals from, and they have all models online. I also brought for my 1989 BMW, such old model, they had it and it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to get manuals from, and they have all models online. I also brought for my 1989 BMW, such old model, they had it and it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

I suggest you get one of those manuals people get nowadays to do it yourself.. My nephew use it to repair my car and it's totally repaired now. Here's the website he bought it from.

most misfires start at a dirty / wiring of injector so strat there

So it does turn over but want start right? Is it turning over slower but want start? Or is it turning over the same speed...Need more information.. Try this....The next time it want start...Loosen the gas cap...Sound crazy? ..lol. The car might be vapor locked...It's when your gas tanks pressure becomes greater than your gas pump..Worth a try....So the car cranks up runs good until it shuts off...Well it's not a fuse..or the on board computer...Because it would never start back...It's not a ground...Nothing would work..It wouldn't turn over at all..It could be a fuse link...There little tiny wires that act as a fuse... Sometimes you can move the wires and it will start..When it want start also check to see if your getting fire..Bad electronic ignition not sending enough spark...Of course it could be the ignition switch itself..Hope this helps...Something for you to check

bad starter the solenoid is sticking, some can be cleaned, and reused. you will find the pinion drive part, all messed up there. answering for starter pinon lockup. and will not self retract(normal)

all 4 bangers, not boxer engines (cars) are 1,3,4,2. this is 4aFE or 7Afe, Corolla engine, in Geo snake skins.

old post go ahead we watch with baited breath.

old post timing of what. cam or distributor. what enigne its not the 1zz but is 4a or 7afe. we can not guess engines, 1million post here like this, no engine stated, but asks and engine question. log in to Mitchell's online, they ask you same. for obvious reasons. why not stated the job first putting your helper on the same page at the get go.... hark! or photo engine and with finger pointing to the JOB<

old post, and I feel your pain or others land here. yes, The IMMO(alarm) on the car can kill the engine dead some cut fuel, others cut cranking. The 96 prizm/corolla. is what it is. early cars were (daffy) and easy to hack ,done most. if the immo lamp stick on what to do. lacking new alarm programming or repairs to same. how to HACK. hack IMMO 101: the answer can very by make of car and year, newer cars are impossible. do not confuse words writting about 1991 car , on a 96 they are worlds apart(evolution, and LAWS) your alarm box is called. doors and locks and theft deterrent. as expected its got a zillion pins, (big job it has) but only 1 pin matters, (hacking mind set) pin A1 SRLY im no genius, im just and electronics tech, retire. and can read this print , here at mitchells so can you. the print shows that pin as P, my guess for Purple wire. next is the starter pages. it shows, what? it goes to the starter relay coil and the non alarm car wire ground there is missing so there is your fix, ground the purple wire there or at pin 2 of relay start, ground that. now the starter cranks forever, no matter what , deity willing. The AM1 fuse kills the live relay power. or pull battery neg lug, and all is off line, 0volts. The GIG+DOME+HORN fuse kills dead the alarm box or pull the AM2 or the power fuel. so will the 100 amp ALT fuse. all this in the book , the schematic, all that. just ground the P wire. end story watch out for door locks, keep windows open , killing this alarm box. as it runs all door lock motor......... !!!

its a hydra. clutch. acutator so did you check that first. and bleed it? no air allowed. there. did you prove the clutch MC and slave were good first before replacing the whole main clutch>? before the job started was the MC dry? clutch master cylinder, MC. the bleed in on the rear of the SLAVE>

This is a Toyota engine. Follow the link to a torque spec chart http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=42-1.8L-109ci-S4

ask a real question, what engine is in car.if dont know, be first to post a photo of it.we be like shocked.!the 96 hada toyota 1.6L and a 1.8L engine (it's a corolla in drag)

the lever is hard to move foot on brake, right>?on hill?there are 2 things that prevent the lever from moving out of park1: park lockout feature 2: parking pawl in trans jammed by persons parking on a hill incorrectly, (not setting hand brake first) this jams the internal Pawl, lock.if the bypass lever below works, then its not the transmission locking. its the feature 1 doing that.are you parked on hill ? or on the flat are your tires/wheels jammed against a curb? if on the flat and tires not against some object. then the car is free to roll, and that means the parking pawl is not jammed, (normal not parked correctly , hand brake first on, last off) per opr. manual. called park lock out. this is a feature that prevents car moving , starting the engine up. the first thing that must work are rear brake lights. you step on the brake, the lamps glow and the park solenoid unlocks freeing up the shift lever. the corolla is its, in geo snake skins. here is the circuit, after fixya badly shrinks it. login to Mitchells see it your self.did you scan the PCM first to see if the shift'er inputs are not showing DTC errors. ?the logic has 3 input , progressives.brake on, and the 2 shift'er switches most read correctly beforethe shift solenoid , unlocks, left red arrow below. X is the ECU. the ECU is the Logic, rule maker here.if on flat ground we can find true causeif you HAVE A voltmeter,or replace the brake fuse. if blown.the brake lamps on rear of car must not fail.causes:bad fuse brakes its its cracked, or loose. or rustybad brake switch. same deal park locking devicewill not disable any time brake lamps fail.i have the drawing if you need it.a 96 Toy corolla is same car. same wiringask... have it all.

i guess this is one of the first locking radios ever at gm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2osiPwVNm8 http://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/%22l-o-c-%22-stereo-screen-menu-17934/ try googling this, see what others did, only GM can unlock this rad, call them. there may be hacking sites that can but i dont use or trust them.

Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, there should be an aluminum or steel casting that unbolts from the engine, thermostat is behind it.