1992 Geo Tracker - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the oil pressure switch. It may not be sending a ground signal to the computer.

Rotation is different between 8 and 16 valve engines. See picture.

now the question is did you get the original master cylinder as a replacement or did you get a new master cylinder for the car that the callipers came off understanding that there is a direct relationship between master cylinder piston size and calliper piston size, you problem appears to be that there is not enough surface area in the master cylinder to effectively push the calliper pistons out to apply the correct braking pressure mixing and matching with brakes requires a lot of hydraulic knowledge and pressure differences which include fitting a proportioning valve in the rear brake lines to prevent brake lock up at the rear wheels

Have you checked the fuel regulator and the pressure from the fuel pump to ensure it is not weak. In addition, you might want to check and see if fuel is going into the cyl. the catalytic converter may be plugged based on the year of the car. To check this you could pull the o2 sensor out of the exhaust and see if it keeps running, realize it won't run at 100%. If it is the back pressure will not allow fuel to come into the cyl.

its in the free manuals. all this, G16 engines. its just 2 bolts (disconnect battery neg lug first (step 1) in all cases. the problem is there are 2 G16 engines, 8valve and 16vale the intake man-fold is above your part. so getting there can be hard and you never said, is it 4wd or 2wd car, matters. and on my 2 , cars, had the factory off road bash plates up front and other places. (options, factory very good) in any case, we can do this, first tell me what engine is there, 8v or 16v (16valves is clearing cast in place on the valve cover) what makes you think its bad,? is your car 5sp stick 3sp auto or 4speed auto trans? the 5speed, kills the starter,dead at the clutch switch. the 3 auto trans, do the same at the PRNDL switch if the starter hot wires ok, then the starter is not bad ending my long long post on starters. here do this. 92 Geo Tracker, 4wd, 4speed, 4door car,, (correct my guess) see that line, tells the helper what car you own,,, lots of variances there are. and the presents of the bash plate below engine. 4wd option 2. that is. step one is to hot wire it. step one is a tests. called hot wiring pass or fail tells you whats wrong, and is very easy tests. if you can reach the solenoid, (from under car.) not topside got jack stands, you will need them. never use a jack and crawl under any car ever or use bricks. http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#test1 now the starter views on both engines. the 1992 car for sure had 2 engines, for sure. the first photo here is the might 16v engine, (new here being dropped in , and see starter plain as day, in fact both engines same place. getting there is the ONLY problem. http://www.fixkick.com/belts.html#starter as you can clearly see, the intake off this is childs play. but my guess, thats too hard, to do . (im 69 and can) the 8v has a large intake manifold braces that is in the way the 16v is unique with its own intake. the 8v view , shows ALT tilted here, the photos are all there.above http://www.fixkick.com/engine/8v-Show-boat/hidepipe1w.jpg facts: 1: if the hot wire test passes. all this is a wasted effort !!! on this forum and others we have a record of 5 starter swaps! before owners did the hot wire test and learned, OMG IT WORKING. 2: the starter is not easy to get to. on any Sidekick/Tracker. 3: the alternator needs to be tilted or removed , and that depends on the size and heath of the mech, can you bend over a fender? or even reach that far,(big tummy) skinny arms for large.?? size matters, working on RICE, or FWD bs cars. 4: the INTAKE brace seen on 8v can be a pain to get off. it will tilt too, but must have top bolts off, and bottom loose. 5: bam, 2 wires 2 bolts its off. its a long post but this starter is not just15min work like other cars. its more deep,,,,, do tell again what car you have in details. and get 10x better answers. 4w? stick or auto?

mount starter mount lost both? they are both the same diameter. the length is super easy, measure it. the leaves, diameter, metric, 8 or 10mm and pitch so using a box of random bolts with starter off find one that fits, m8 or m10, or m12. now you know the sizes, and with starter off the holes are right there. in front of you to test. to get length, use drinking straw, and your thumb, nail to find lenght fitted up by and then move straw to ruler, metric ahhhhhh there is the lenght in 5min work. if no bolts in the scrap box, at all, metric, buy some.

old post we check voltage at the pump cranking. "crank it" FI fuse good, IG-coil fuse good. if 11v at least then then DC power IS GOOD> if less seen 4,5,6,7,8,volts i have. then the power wires are rusty, or the pump is sucking way over 5amps. (spec) seen bad pumps SUCK 10 or more amps, (all are bad) if a 2 door a, these pigs fail. all do. behind the left rear tail light (off it) there are 2 wires, there, to look at, fixed many. the wire to body lug there black at 2pm is pump ground, its rusty right>? then to the left and lower is the large connected, with a huge pink wire, that wire is PUMP. hot. that connector pin will be rusty, bad . most do this because water can get up there, and is bad thing there. it can also fail at the center bumper conn. and on top of tank pump connector. i just named 4 places, and guess what there are more. what I do is check fuel pressure if not speck i check pump voltage, (across the 2 pins) if not spec, voltage cranked , I measure current. if at near 4amps, i work back. for voltage drop same answer on every EFI car made. do all this cranking on a dead engine car, my guess as to why you ask. "fuel pump no power." can mean? pump dead, and no DC power to pump' or can be? ?can fuel pump be bad, causing low engine power.???? now that be sure, as can 100 other things. try to form a clear question after posting clear symptoms.

old post, this car is not 1991 and newer that do have a FI fuse. this generation 1. it uses 1 fuse for ECU , spark and pump. called IG-COIL as seen here for others, with this car the below is key to whats there. EFI wise. http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg

Should be two aluminum rubes on the passenger side of the radiator. Follow them back...both have ports but only one will fit. Make sure you are using the correct freon for tour vehicle. R134a is not compatible with r12.

which engine, 8v or 16valves?????? wrong fuse name, its IG-coil or FI. (be clear, it matters)use correct names please.there are 2 prime causes, seen 100 times on real suzuki forumstracker = vitara=sidekick.ECU caps short.or the fuel pump is sucking way too much current4amp is normal on the pump pike power line (real data)the ECU on 89-95 all had/have bad huge internal capacitors.http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.htmlthat love to leak, short and or explode.if they have back skins and say Rubicon on side, bingo , TRASH CAPs.in the real world i can be lots of things shorts.all wiring on all cars, can short. vibration and time, and bingo.automobiles use poorly made harness clamps is why.(unlike air craft,)here is the 16v wiring (tossed coin for you)i bet you, FI fuse 24 blows, right?and is here, see it.http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-schematic_files/92-95mpi-eng-full-size-huge.pngtop fails are1: ECU caps.2: 02 sensor heater wires shorted, melted , last guy forgot clamps.3: Distributor hot wire shorted to engine body, bad service.4: fuel pump or its wire shorted.i use an magic tool called an AMMETER to find which of the 4 pathes are shorting,but on all G16s, we pull the lid on the ECU first day get carand check for cap leaks, or cracks. fix the leaks now, or the ECU will burn up.$$$$$$$$$$$$for fun , see one guy here now with cap death.http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/showthread.php?tid=916&page=2the 02 wires are like a 1 second inspectionthe distrib wire, 1 second glance..... the ECU screws, are a #3 huge Phillips screw, and tight.the first link above as a section called ECU pull.is car 2door or 4?is car 2wd or 4.?is car stick or auto.?is engine 8v or 16valves. ?all matter, all wiring is different by those factors, every inch.tell more get more.... as always...the 8v has black painted head, TBI the 16v has silver head that yells, 16valves. MPIwhich is it?there is a page dedicate to this. for 10 years+http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html#FI_blowsread that.?

old post, (pure software logic here) facts only this car. this g16 engine. the pump only runs ,key on for 3seconds the fuel pump relay does that' cranking whole time pump runs, on all cars. if not, FI OR IG COIL FUSE BLOWN IF PINK WIRE GOES HOT AT PUMP , BAD PUMP BUT......................... IF 2 DOOR CAR, ????? the left rear tail light g402 wire is rusty type pump here' and read http://www.fixkick.com/

old post and classic G16 failure. the egr main valve stick open on all cars this old all clean it our buy new one.

old post want a schematic or pin number and name or just shapes harness runs the FSM has all 3. no engine stated, 8v or 16v and both are radically differnt we have it, ask.

all are 1,3,4,2 cept boxer engines. (flat) http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/index.html cover all 3 engines. G16

old post got air pockets in it, burp it like we do all cars. ask see list of 17 signs here, (evidence) http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html and all cures. just for G16 engines both 8v and 16valve versions. i bet its cold out.right? February. Cel lamp out running, if not, spark timingen may be way wrong. when the read tubes clog then spark is wrong, the rad can overheats due to 2 failures at once. ? even 3. or cap is no good, or thermostat bad. you have tons of cold air there moving so the rad would have to be super clogged to fail thermostats are weak technogly, see netfilx video of tour o that. and he show why, they go bad 3 to 5 years old. shorted lived part. so we always assume that it bad. like car batteries, same deal ,weak tech. or not burped right proof? easy

1. pump in, all in.
2. fill it with 50% AF ,right, to top of neck ,side tank 1/2 full.
3. run (idle) engine until AF exits filler cap hole, kill engin, put on new cap.
4. drive around block
5. let cool below 130F or near.
6. open cap.
7. is it still full, sure its not, its got air pockets, all do.
8. fill again, jump to 4.

g16 are not hard to fill unless shade tree puts therm stat in, with bleed hole forward ,up hill. or upside down.

Automatic, or Standard? Last time transmission serviced? If auto, check fluid, if smells burnt, get serviced. However,it sounds like a problem in the linkage/s from the shift lever to the transmission and 4wheel controls.

O-ring where? The drain plug? Distributor shaft? Or do you mean oil seal? Geo oil drain plug specifies a compressible copper ring washer I think? Need to clean the surfaces well, and torque to spec. My own plug's seal is not perfect, but only a drop here and there usually. Autozone or NAPA can supply you a new plug and washer if needed.

yes, that is how the engine keeps running.

Suspect (potentially) either a stuck injector, or a failed/failing fuel pressure regulator. One sign of a failed fuel pressure regulator can be gas in the oil. (I suffered that side effect, along with bogging, and black smoke rich running, worsening as warmed up, turned out to be fuel pressure regulator). If the injector is loose in the throttle body, or has bad o-rings, can also cause some wonky behavior. Good luck.

there is a switch on the dash. see part 21 here, defog. http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/Relays/relays.html or read the operators guide, in the glove box, sure lost it. so here it is for click 95 here (same car) page 4-1 shows "other switches" silly huh? http://www.fixkick.com/index9.html http://ge.tt/7WrBuI91/v/0?c the left group of "other " is defrost. the right group of "other", is rear wipers. (4door only)