20 Most Recent 2006 Jeep Liberty - Page 7 Questions & Answers

how you do , is not known, we cant guess what you might do. but the FSM covers all this. you read it and do the tests and ...... here it is, read it? https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/FacetSearchResults.aspx?make=Jeep&year=2005&model=LIBERTY+LIMITED+EDITION+4X4&engine=3.7L+MAGNUM+V6&producttype=Service+Manuals&ptCatId=3083 i had to guess, which book, so you go to home page and answer the questions, correct.

You do not necessarily need a flush but a fluid and filter change is recommended. The flush is for a car that has not had a fluid change for 100,000 miles or more and the trans is still is in good shape.

you posted 3 symptoms, which one is first. stalls? ever tune it up in last 8 years. read the operators guide on ESP yet? do so, it explains what to do.

tcc lock up failed get it diagnosed

I personally won't flush a transmission There are machines for that & several ways to exchange all the fluid, but you run the risk of getting fine debris into the solenoids That said-- most times, the fluid is not changed every 3 years & thinking a complete flush is the answer,it could result in the trans slipping, from worn clutches due to overheating, with those long fluid change intervals What your asking, is not something that has an answer, like 90% of all the question that come here You have a check light on Why not give us the codes or google them I wouldn't be using it at all, without knowing the fault codes, especially with trans issues When you say came back on,having once owned a trans shop,that tells me you have trans problems & fail to know that a fluid change is just that,old fluid out- new in & not a fix at all for anything

why use, rumor to make that judgment.?no engine runs for 300k miles, with out a tuneup.this is true in 1900 and in 2014,for the same reasons.spark parts, fluids, belts , and brakes linings do not last foreverit called doing the service points list, stated in the operators guide.in every car made. those spark tips, , that is normal.. they wear away, after 30 to 50k miles. the HV spark actually rips the atoms of metal off the tips.and is aided by heat.in fact, the first Atomic Bomb was made this why. (enrichment ways)read new J. Robert Oppenheimer book (what a read that is!!!)In electronics it\'s called HV metal migration.... or electrostatic, same.yes, great call. but is SOP, standard operating procedures.on some engines, it has COPS, if yes, then putting in new COPboots, is a win. (too)i bet the coil pack was okand only dirt cheap sparkplugs, and a HV wire set.id bet. but no miles stated.

english please.

wow cathy 4 post now. get it jump started, does it start now? charge the battery to 12.6vdc rested does it crank now, you mean it wont crank or cranks robustly but will not start or cranks and runs for 3 seconds. is the IMMO light off, it has its own lamp, mine is sold read, no words, no icons, just red. if on, it WILL NEVER RUN. key on cranks does it crank.??? if not jumper start it. if IMMO is off.

Checked coolant? You talking about antifreeze or refrigerants? Check -leaking -amount of refrigerants -compressor

if the system is in fact full, I would jumper across the low pressure cut out switch plug briefly to see if the compressor starts then. Probably the absolute safest way to check this switch would be to check it with an ohmmeter at the switch with the car not running. either way will verify the switch is or isn't the root cause of the compressor not running.

the jeep dealer has all the parts. why not let the body shop and insurance just fix it????? or buy the whole column section from a wrecking yard. here they all are. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=585592&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15531&modelYear=2006&ukey_category=20316&ukey_driveLine=7447&ukey_trimLevel=18760 find the bad and replace.

Have to check for codes & diagnose them, to find that out Obviously you have a system fault Nothing new there,same as all vehicle problems Work on it,find a problem

bad pin may have to replace ignition switch

It may be a malfunction in the gear selector safety switch with it saying 'hey, I am still in gear and you can't do that until I am in Neutral or Park.' Try cycling the gear selector a few times.

Sounds like you might have a breather hose that is pinched.

Have you had the battery checked? If it's flat then charge or change it, and then check if the charging circuit (alternator) is working. If it won't crank with a good battery then you need to get someone to check if the starter motor is ok

Hi UtahBeeMan, I'm glad to help! The new socket that you buy will have a pigtail wiring on it, this is so you can solder and heat-shrink that wiring to the vehicle wiring. I suggest you do 1 wire at a time so you don't get the wires crossed. Here what you do, If you bought the socket at the dealer it will come with heat-shrink in the package, if you don't have heat shrink you'll need to buy some at the auto parts store. TOOLs You'll Need: Soldering Gun, Heat Gun, wire stripper. NEXT: Cut one wire, CAUTION: Make certain you are connecting the proper wire by holding the new connector up to the vehicle connector and start with the wire that you just cut. NOW: Strip the wires, next slid the heat shrink on one side of the wire as far back from the heat as possible. NOW: Put the wires together and solder them by placing the heat gun directly on the wire and letting it heat up, after it heats up touch the solder between the tip of the gun and the wire itself, this will give a nice flow of the solder, while moving along the wire. After soldering, let the wire cool down before covering the exposed wire with the heat-shrink. Then slide the heat-shrink into place and use the heat-gun to heat the shrink until you see the insulator material inside come out of the ends, once that happens you are done, move on to the next wire. Hope this helps and have an awesome day!