20 Most Recent 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I've come across a couple with poor battery connections do the same thing... The EAS/BAS light will turn on and store a pending code when the system detects low battery voltage.

SEE information posted to
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4154105-1998_jeep_grand_cherokee_alarm_will_set

mine did the same, so i had to stop using it
i did read somewhere that there is a way to ground a particular wire to disable (trying to locate that article for you ... i have not tried that yet).

have the battery tested for holding charge and the alternator checked for charge rate as this code indicates low power supply to sensor/s, although it does'nt give a specific sensor it would suggest the power supply is the cause , keep me posted if you wish

dome light bulb is loose in the socket. take off the cap and adjust bulb.

Most probably the crank or cam sensor which is getting bad.Did you get it scanned to see if it has a fajlt code set?

Hello. Security systems (alarms) can cause problems when they become bad. The best thing to do is disconnect the fuse for the alarm. Look in the fuse panel of your car and see which one is for the security system (alarm). Then you can pull out the fuse and it will disarm the security system. Good Luck.

This is not much information to go on; but I can ask questions, and you can check. Does this have the 4.0? Does it have a chipped ignition key? Does it have a security system? I am going to guess you have recently cut a new key? I am not sure, but think you have a key with a chip in it. If you switched keys, you will need to have the key programmed. If you have the old key, try going back to that and it may start. I know you are looking at the engine, but if this suddenly started, it could be the key. If it was running rough and then stopped, you may need something as simple as cap and rotor(4.0).

old post this is an HVAC question, did you read that chapter in the FSM. yet? then ask questions. stuck in mode x. ? in all cases. can be: 1: check fuses. 2: bad wiring to these parts. 3: bad control. 4: bad damper actuators. here is the FSM free http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service see hvac , chapter. the tests are all there. if unclear any ,ask about them.

still bad. still guessing?

can i buy a comma there, i cant figure out which is what. what fuse dont get power, name it. (?photo it) 98 is older car, many have bad or hacked up wiring this old. a mechanic can see that in 1 min, flat. I cant. in fact i cant do this. 1: check all fuse with a real DMM meter on ohms. 2: check voltage at each fuse (both ends) works 100x better. 3: is battery at 12.65vdc ? if not, it's Discharged or BAD. (charge it) 4: do the head lamps (easy) work at full brightness.? key off. 5: key on do all the cluster warning lamps glow, like new car did or as the operators guide tells you? (brake,oil,charge, CEL,etc) 5a; the CEL must glow, that is the CHECK engine lamp, if not the ECU/PCM has issues, 6: the turns are dead, but IS the emergency flasher working.? 7: Does the CEL lamp glow running? 8: DID you SCAN the PCM and see if there are DTCs errors. any shop can scan any car, made, scan it with a real scan tool. in the USA even the oldest junky scan tool works on 98. even a $9 tool off fleabay. works. by now we will have evidence to make better diagnostic tests.

My first thought would be the system is low on freon... other causes would be that the belt is off or not turning the compressor. Another thing to consider if its NOT low on freon is that the pressure switch is unplugged causing the compressor not to engage.

first id check for vacuum leaks.

Wow,you really should get someone else to look at that.Don't know where it was wrecked but if the steering box was damaged it could be VERY dangerous. Anything loose enough for you to notice a difference is defintely a priorty repair.

veh, comparisons. that be bad idea. power assisted brakes very greatly in that word POWER. first off, the brakes need to great. then the assist active try driving with the booster (safely) defeated. (pull hose and plug it) is that 6 times harder to brake, that is normal. if the same, then the booster is failing, they can.

Could be a bad wheel bearing, pilot bearing in transmission or even a problem in the engine itself. Needs to be put up on a lift to isolate the problem area.

not 100% on your details but if your saying you can fill it in your steering wheel while stop with your foot on the break. check your power steering pump.

Throttle position sensor is not the only sensor or component involved in Idle, or full speed driving. Remember that on a fuel injected engine AIR is everything. Unless the computer can't send the proper signals to the injectors, fuel ( aside from a bad fuel pump ) is not going to be an issue. Make sure that the other sensors on the throttle body are working fine. Take a look at the throttle body yourself. It's not a hard procedure. Just look at it and run the engine. Is running correctly at all temperatures? As far as the directional signal, you have to trouble shoot that one, but it may not be difficult to find the issue. Check for a loose bulb.