20 Most Recent 2003 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you lost oil pressure and possibly the engine is shot due to losing pressure. It's possible the timing belt/chain broke. Even if this is this is the case, usually it requires valves replaced and head rebuilt/replaced.

most vehicles get stuck in 4wd low when they arent shifted into neutral before removal also check the lins to your front differential

Free the wheels and in nuetral, it miht help.

BAD WHEEL SPEED SENSOR /HUB BEARING

what rod

• First try to check the "servo" maybe it needs some cleaning or some adjustment.

If you need some clarification feel free to reply to this solution. Thank you. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ramy_d9e7ebea3891f482

Don't condemn the head just yet.

When the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops turning, so the relative position of valves doesn't' change if you try cranking the motor over. Any valves (intake or exhaust) that aren't fully seated will allow pressure to "blow by" that other wise would form the compression you say you no longer have.

What I'm not sure of is if you have an "interference" motor. An referenced motor is one in which the piston can strike a valve head when the timing belt breaks. The clearances are so close that all moving parts have to be in perfect sync in order to operate and not strike one another.

It is possible, with an interference engine, to break valves and / or crack a piston if attempting to crank and the piston comes in contact with an open valve.

If it isn't an interference engine, you shouldn't have any problems. Just get the cam and crank (and any other shaft(s) that may be belt driven) in proper timing, install a new belt, apply the correct tension and you're basically "good to go"

I'd suggest you purchase a vehicle specific repair manual at your auto parts store. It'll contain step by step instructions specific to your vehicle on how to perform this repair.

Good luck!

this code is oxygen sensor heater circuit range/performance(bank2,sensor1)
the ECM detects the heated oxygen sensor internal resistance is not in specs for 6 seconds code sets
disconnect O2 sensor,switch ignition on engine not running and measure the voltage with a multi meter between O2 sensor reference signal circuit and low reference signal circiut(vehicle side of wiring) should read 350-550mV
possibly O2 sensor broken(faulty) replace

Lower radiator hose, or coolant return hose. Either one is correct.

Need dealer to reprogram or flash the control module

I do not think shifting gears ,putting your car in reverse has nothing to do whit whit the abs to come on and off ,my isuzu rodeo did the same thing and it was a dirty sensor ABS on front wheels , There is a ring on the inside of the front disc's that works together with the ABS sensor to send information to the car computer when braking ,and must have a distance of about 1/8 of an inch between ring and sensor ,,they must not touch ,what happens is that over time dirt starts to build between sensor and ring ,and ring and sensor begin to touch ,and if they do touch ABS light will start be on and off while driving ,,most of the time the problem is the sensor and not necessarly a bad sensor ,,only a durty sensor and dirty ring ,a broken or loose wire also will activate the ABS light ,,,and about car hard to put into reverse ,you'll probably need a new clutch ,,good luck

You have to remove the EGR valve, inspect and repair. It is mounted with two bolts only. If it is damaged beyond repair, you have to replace it with a new one. A genuine cost around $150.

More than likely you will need to use a relay. Your reverse lights are rated for a particular amperage. The wiring, fuse and components are engineered for the amp draw. Adding an extra load like a high wattage fog lamp can cause the fuse to blow or damage the components/wiring to the reverse lights.

Relays work great for this type of application. They use a small amount of current to control a large amount of current. So adding a relay into the reverse light circuit will minimize the load draw on the circuit. It will then control either a fused power or ground (i prefer to wire them as ground side control so they aren't talking the brunt of the load which will make them last longer) that you run directly from the battery. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Sounds like it could be plugged catalytic converter. If the more you press on the accelorator the worse it runs this could be it. Have someone rev the motor and put your hand at the exhaust. If you don't feel much air flow thYs probably it