20 Most Recent 2005 Chrysler Pacifica - Page 8 Questions & Answers

i'd advise rechecking the timing belt positioning again , surging can be a symptom of timing being out and i would'nt expect any codes if its the belt timing, as is set up manually and not monitored by the PCM

Happened to me as well. I first had it give me an error with disk 6 flashing so I removed it, put it back in and the lights would flash from 3 left to 3 right. I removed the DVD changer from the car again, removed the top (one screw), removed the black face plate (4 screws and carfully pry up on the bottom tabs when pulling it forward. I then took out the five screws holding the changer (four on top, one in the back) and removed the changer so I could get to the bottom. There is a set of wheels on the bottom that I started to turn which was easy at first but it seemed to reach a point where it was stuck so I gave it a bit more and something seemed to snap into position. So I assume that it was just the mechanism that jammed when it tried to switch disks. I put it back together, installed it, and it works fine now. When it first started all the lights would flash but then it settled down to a single light and I ejected the first 3 disks and number 6 and let it play the forth. Now to see how long it lasts.

I looked at the wiring and it looks like it could be a fuse or relay if there is a duplicate relay in there remove it and try in another spot. Most fuses and relays are under the hood above the battery

Most competent tire shops can check your system for you. Just ask the cost ahead of time.

Hi Juan, I'm AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair Below is the torque specs for the rocker arm as you requested.

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE

DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. Camshaft Sprocket-Bolt 54 40 - Camshaft Thrust Plate-Bolts 12 - 105 Forged Connecting Rod Cap-Nuts 54 +¼ turn 40 +¼ turn - Cracked Connecting Rod Cap-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - INSTALLATION) Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap-Bolts 41 +¼ turn 30 +¼ turn - Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Cross Bolts (3.8L) 61 45 - Crankshaft Oil Seal Retainer Rear-Bolts 12 - 105 Crankshaft Damper-Bolt 54 40 - Cylinder Block Drain Plugs 20 15 - Cylinder Head-Bolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION) Cylinder Head Cover-Bolts 12 - 105 Flex Plate to Crankshaft 88 65 - Engine Mounting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING) Powertrain Torque Strut 54 40 - Exhaust Manifold-Bolts 23 - 200 Exhaust Crossover Pipe-Bolts 54 40 - Intake Manifold - Lower-Bolts 23 - 200 Intake Manifold - Lower Gasket Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Intake Manifold Upper-Bolts 12 - 105 Lifter Yoke Retainer-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Filter Attaching Fitting 54 40 - Oil Cooler Attaching Fitting 27 20 - Oil Filter 20 15 - Oil Filter Adapter-Bolts 28 - 250 Oil Gallery Plug 27 20 - Oil Pan-Bolts 12 - 105 Oil Pan Drain-Plug 27 20 - Oil Pressure Switch 23 - 200 Oil Pump Cover Plate-Screws 12 - 105 Oil Pump Pick-up Tube-Bolt 28 - 250 Oil Dipstick Housing-Bolts 48 35 - Rocker Arm Shaft-Bolts 23 - 200 Spark Plug 16 12 - Thermostat Housing 12 - 105 Timing Chain Case Cover -M8 Bolt 27 20 - -M10 Bolt 54 40 - Water Pump-Bolts 12 - 105 Water Pump Pulley-Bolts 28 - 250 Should you need extra help visit my website here: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

Well consider the plug that you are plugging in of course. Troubleshooting is finding out what is known a go from there. Is the wires in the back of it hot. Dc voltage needs two things voltage and ground. If the voltage is there then make sure the ground is grounded to the frame and block( continuity test) . My guess is ground which is common to all four, next question why ? Ask yourself when did it stop working, or when do you remember it working . There is a reason , wreck or something.

not 100% sure but it maybe a knock sensor. does it have a single wire attached to it and is the shaped like a bell. if so then that is what it is.

Is there a reason for the cooling fan to work when the air conditing is off? Perhaps when you have outside air coming into the cab and you want more of the outside air? Your Owner's manual may help and may provide some trouble shooting help.

if the sensor is for the car and the correct temp more than likely the car is not hot enough to turn on the switch , hence fan. the fan works, if you bypass switch..

So the problem is it is running hot Replace the radiator flush the complete system this means the block and likely the heater core . Do it all at wonce or you will be wasteing your time and will blow intake or head gaskets in the near future

Ether the lr motor or switch is bad. Most likely the motor. Could you send me a picture of the switch on the front and back doors so can help you more?

when changing a serp belt i recommend changing tensioner and idler pulley's also that could be causing the squealing you mention were all pulley's checked for free spin when belt was off ? Not really sure what would cause hesitation unless you have a serious drag on serpentine belt

Check relays and if power going to fans

if you can see where it is. Heat around o2 sensor with hand soldering torch, Remove o2 sensor with special o2 sensor socket. Put car on stands when you jack up the car or use car ramps and block the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving.

sounds like fuel filter or screen on fuel pump plugged