20 Most Recent 2005 Mercury Mountaineer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Fuel leak and or vapors. you may need a new evap canister filter

sounds like a faulty ignition switch. alot of electrical things are connected to that switch, so when it starts to go they act up.

Most likely you will need to change them out, try pushing down on the car and if it bounces more than once they are worn, if not then it might be a different problem, like control arm bushings, or strut mounts

check the brake pads, it may be worn and need replacement.
sammyc47

first of all if its an automatic, put it in neutral to try to start it. if it starts its the neutral safty switch. I had a similar problem awhile ago with a friends car,- disconnected, cleaned and reconnected both + and - cables at the battery and starter/grounds. The main cable connection to the starter was so corroded, I'm surprised it ever started. No problems since a good cleaning and tightly reconnected.

The transmission does not have a dip stick. There is a special tool needed to pump transmission fluid into the transmission. There is a torx screw in the center of the drain plug, using a plunger screw your hose into the fitting fill untill the fluid backs up, replace the torx screw, warm the vehicle up, then repeat filling process again, then your full to factory specifications and good to go.

It is designed to be a sealed transmission, and usually any service needs to be done by the dealer. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

These are all connected to the same circuit. Check all bulbs and relays , fuses or fuse wires. Fuse wires are wires that burn out if a short is found. The relays maybe under the hood in the "black fuse box'. I will appreciate yourthumbs up if this helps .

I'm having the same xact problem

ETC or Temp Failsafe?

might try fuel pump relay before u put in new pump

Worn inner tie rod joint,on the steering rack

If you go to an alignment only shop, not some
chain store, with an alignment rack,they will
change it for you, if it can be done

Then you have to set all the front end adjustments

Don't let them pitch you, a complete rack assy
Moog-- makes those inner tie rods, and you put your
good outer joint on it

Your SUV has electronic fuel injection. As such, your idle setting is controlled by a computer (ECM) and cannot be adjusted in the manner I believe you seek. If you have an idle issue, there is most likely something else that needs attention in the system. Coudl be from a senicor being dirty as well, loosing contact...I hope this is of some help I know it is not what you wanted to here. Good luck any more questions just ask if i dont know the answer someone in here will

if its not a sealed system it goes in dipstick tube to refill. just use a funnel to do this, if unsure if it is a sealed system. call or visit local auto parts store to find out. I think this is a sealed system, but i am not sure, if the fluid is low then you may have a pan that is leaking fluid from the gasket. have a good day!!

you have a A/C-Heat blend door actuator malfunction. This door switches from A/C vent to heater core vents via an actuator motor.Very Typical problem on Ford/Mercury/Lincolns vehicles. There are multiple actuators in this vehicle, some in the dash and some in the rear (only if equipped w/rear A/C-Heater. This will require pin pointing the exact fault, and may require lower dashboard or rear quarter panel interior trim (if rear A/C-Heater equipped) removal

this is the same an any Explorer, go to the link and there is a video of the job that should answer your questions.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZK464aMbGnM

The most glaring possibility is whether or not it is the correct belt. I like to lay the old one out next to the new one to verify that they are identical in length. Did the old belt squeal and then break? If so, something was trying to lock up. If something other than the idler pulley was going bad, you may still have a squealing belt because it can't pull the "bad" unit. I recommend you take the belt off verify that it is the correct belt. If so while the belt is off, inspect every pulley on the belt circuit. Each pully, except the crankshaft, should turn freely and have no wobble play at the bearings. If any components have a grinding feel to them when you turn the pulleys, it needs to be replaced.
Good luck, hopes this helps you.