20 Most Recent 2004 Mercury Sable - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Obtain a Hayne's Repair manual. They go into great depth on brake work!

that click would be the relay check for power at the horn itself

I suggest to check in this link your Mercury Sable Owners Manual, page 151 and next.Hope this helps, also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Hi there:

DTC P0171 is a lean code that can be caused by your EGR system, more likely than your O2 sensor.DTC P2196 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates RichA HEGO sensor indicating rich at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.Hope helps.

Could be a bad solenoid or cable connection TO the starter. Check this out. don-ohio

Hello Bernie, If the compresser is locked up, but the electric clutch will still spin free, then simply disconnect power to it, just thought i would mention that in case that was problem.

The way the belt is routed, it is hard to get the proper tension on the belt by using a shorter belt. It's a trial an error ordeal of trying many different lengths of belts until you find the right one, if at all.

There is also a bypass pulley that you can purchase that will mount in place of the seized AC compressor on the 3.0 litre engine---It will bolt in to place with the orginal bolts and you can retain the use of the orginal belt. No cutting, drilling or other modifications required.

Good luck, & i hope this helps FixYa!

1. Stand at your passenger fender facing the engine
2. Look to your left . The low pressure port is on the line coming out of the evaporator core. It should be close to your firewall location.

Best of Luck..

has a presure sensor in the line jump the 2 wires will kick start the compressor then plug back on should work if charge is good

When you detected one code P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2), this basically means that an oxygen sensor in bank 2 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 2 is generally the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0171, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms: You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes: A code P0174 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible solutions include:
In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure



Bank 2/Sensor 2 is at the bottom of the engine as you look in from the bumper. It is installed in the exhaust pipe just below the catalytic converter. The Bank 1/Sensor 2 is at the same location on the back of the engine below the firewall.

P0430 means Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2) basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter on bank 2 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a rough/hard idle when cold.

Causes: A code P0430 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
There is an exhaust leak

Possible Solutions: First, inspect for exhaust leaks. Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 2. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it.

One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.


Hope this helps.

Hi,

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NOTE: In order to perform a meaningful diagnosis, it is necessary to utilize either a code scanner or code reader. A test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge and jumper wires may also be required. However, you obviously do not need any of the aforementioned items to inspect vacuum hoses, wiring, or disconnected plugs,sensors or adapters.

Before undertaking any repair or diagnostic work, be sure to inspect wiring for proper connection, burned or worn/chafed spots, and cuts.

Be sure to check hoses that are hard to see beneath the air cleaner, compressor, alternator, etc.

WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

Still with me?

This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank. However, as stated above, today's computerized vehicles can only be accurately diagnosed with the use of a code scanner or code reader. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE) You need a fuel pressure gauge so as to ascertain that fuel pressure at the manifold is at least 41 psi and holding steady. (AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE). The fuel pressure regulator may also be defective or clogged, Disassemble it and check if the screen is clogged. If so, use a small pick and remove the screen. You won't interfere with proper functioning of the regulator by removing the screen.

• My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket.
• My third area of concern would be the ignition control module.
• My fourth area of concern would be the heated oxygen sensor.

However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage. Only a code scanner or code reader will give you true analysis. (Remember that AutoZone will loan you one -- FREE)

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.


Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. As stated above, some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Sounds like a wheel bearing is failing. You should have it checked out asap.

Sounds like the window motor is locked up.
If you can grip the top edge, carefully try pulling up while pressing the switch.